heretic Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 So badass Steve, you never fail to impress. 1 Quote Link to comment
goes2fast Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Thanks. It also allows the t-case to be unbolted separately while leaving the cross member bolted up. Will make it easy for maintenance later. I'm not sure who made that adapter. I have another one like it in storage and also a divorced style adapter. I plan to run the patent numbers when I have the truck back together and some research time available. I've seen another type of divorced adapter on a Spencer Low 521 so it's likely not one of his. I don't remember the name of his shop, but the guy that did both of my conversions was in Kelso WA, and most likely it is from him. He did my 76, and my 79 when they were new. Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Nope. Kelso would have been North West ATV. Or, in 79 , what was left of them. As far as I know they always ran the short nose divorced Dana 20 on all there rigs. They used the same T-case in the Ford Currier (Sasquatch ) dealer conversions. And many early Toyota and Datsun 521's It had to be adaptable to all the rigs they converted . IE: The short divorced Dana 20.... A close copy of the Spicer 24. My guess is that it's from one of the Cali converters. 1 Quote Link to comment
goes2fast Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 Nope. Kelso would have been North West ATV. Or, in 79 , what was left of them. As far as I know they always ran the short nose divorced Dana 20 on all there rigs. They used the same T-case in the Ford Currier (Sasquatch ) dealer conversions. And many early Toyota and Datsun 521's It had to be adaptable to all the rigs they converted . IE: The short divorced Dana 20.... A close copy of the Spicer 24. My guess is that it's from one of the Cali converters. In 76 they were using an adaptor, on my 79 they had switched to divorced. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 So badass Steve, you never fail to impress. Thanks man, picking up stuff for your tomorrow ;) That looks like the adapter that used to be in this truck. Not sure where Jeff got the t-case adapter that's in it. It's a much better solution, I think, the welded flange on the shaft looks sketchy and the tapped holes don't have enough thread engagement on the one he pulled out.. I got the tube refit for the back passenger side. I jacked the tcase up into the floor to level the main cradle tube to the frame, hopefully it makes an impression I can hammer out. :lol: Much better :) 1 Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 ok this thing is so badass dude, man crush ! nothing cooler than the parts you build yourself . Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 The flange on this T-case output shaft is machined. ( Dutchman ) I wish they hadn't moved to ID. It came from a NWATV 521 built in 72. The adapter was cast for NWATV at Precision Castparts in Portland Oregon. Sadly the dies and molds are long gone. I have 6 of these and a couple of the long slip adapted ones like 2d's. The slips I have came from dealer prep't 6 lug rigs . I know for sure that one of them was a Lows.... Because I dismantled it myself. I have never figured out who built the long adapter. It was designed specifically for the Datsun conversions though. NWATV wasn't into just Datsuns. They converted many brands , so they needed a universal adapter. The cradle on all of these can use some help. I alllllllways add the plate that wraps the adapter. End up with 7 attachment points , 2 are through bolts. I agree with 2D . In most cases, when preping a Datsun, I'd run the long slip case . If for no other reason than to eliminate the need to build 1 more drive line. I tend to collect ( Horrrrrd ) the divorced cases because I don't build strictly Datsun's. Back to the subject: I ( as always ) love what you'r doing man... It's gonna be bomb proof. 2 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Thanks man, picking up stuff for your tomorrow ;) XOXO 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 ok this thing is so badass dude, man crush ! nothing cooler than the parts you build yourself . Thanks, I love this truck trying to treat it right. Back to the subject: I ( as always ) love what you'r doing man... It's gonna be bomb proof. I hope so, my Jeep was falling apart at the end, it's going to be nice having a solid rig for a change. Got that last tube tacked it. Trim, trim, trim tack. :D From the back. The front around the drive shaft. :sneaky: Where I will tie in this side of the case somehow. Here is that shaft from the old t-case. :sick: .and last but not least. hosestop@msn.com from Alley Cat Garage donated some parts to raffle or whatever to raise money for the forums. I am buying one (with a donation to the board) and will be raffling the other one off for a donation as well. Gonna test fit the bent and coated one and keep it if it works because it has a bit more protection. Thanks man, they are fantastic looking lines. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Well ' get to weldin man...... Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Looks like you know what your doing! Clean work. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 THAT is BADASS!!! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
hosestop@msn.com Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Re. clutch hoses , The Banjo fitting on slave side , started as a better way for TORSION BAR TRUCKS clearance issues , so you better keep the other for your daily driver . I was messing around with multi color anyway . 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Well ' get to weldin man...... Still got more cutting and tacking to do. Need another permanent crossmember behind the t-case and still have an axle swap to do. Looks like you know what your doing! Clean work. THAT is BADASS!!! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: Thanks guys :) Re. clutch hoses , The Banjo fitting on slave side , started as a better way for TORSION BAR TRUCKS clearance issues , so you better keep the other for your daily driver . I was messing around with multi color anyway . Do you have tan? I would totally buy a tan one :D Quote Link to comment
hosestop@msn.com Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Thanks ,clear ,red .blue and charcoal or faux fiber , I almost sent you two weld on #6 an male fittings to help you make a power steer hose ,it changes rubber section to a straight hose with swivel fem. #6s , anyway I can send you a pic of next one I make here for someone . Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Please do I really need to do something about the line routing. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Todays shenanigans. Time for a shower and some adult beverages with my lady. :) Template to check clearances. Cleared well so time for cutting and tacking. Matches pretty good. Fits pretty good, had to mallet it in there a little. C-clamp is insurance. I welded it all up so I don't have to try that under the truck. A lick of paint. I masked the ends to keep the paint off for welding to the frame rails. Started to mess around with the passenger side support while the paint dried, still not sure how to accomplish it. Gonna stare at it some more. :) Should be able to tack that new crossmember in tomorrow. Not much else though as it's the grandkids birthday :D 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Shenanigans!!! Good work as usual.....hippie... :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 You are going to tack those nuts for the T case right????? Would sure make removal a lot nicer. Once less wrench involved. Assuming your going to have your belly pan bolt to the new member, That would be a perfect place to put you 4 link mounts. :poke: :rofl: :rofl: 2 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Thanks q-tip. :lol: It's a little far back, right at the end of the kingcab, nothing to protect. 4-link is just to far out of my budget, for now. :D Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Thanks q-tip. :lol: It's a little far back, right at the end of the kingcab, nothing to protect. 4-link is just to far out of my budget, for now. :D Yeah heim joints are expensive. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Tacked in. On to the rear axle. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Ordered those 3.15:1 gears for the t-case. Need to order a yoke to keep my 1310 u-joints so I only need one spare. Funny, my jeeps granny gear was 6.72 which is just about where I'll be in low range in this truck. Of course the axle gears are lower in this truck so I'll be a bit lower. But now where near granny and low range, maybe I'll get a doubler in the future if I need more gearing. Cleaned up the garage so I can start on the rear. I will be adding that armor, frenching the drain plug and a truss across the back. I've read the later yota housings have a tendency to bend with bigger tires hence the truss. I'm only running 35"s, but better to do it all now. I also think I am going to add a couple fore-aft tubes to the t-case crossmember to tie the bushing ends together. For now I'll let that stew a bit. Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 ok , now i know who to kidnap when i get to the frame portion of my build ! i love it ! great pictures man , i need to find a way to slow down and take more pictures , 1 Quote Link to comment
hosestop@msn.com Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Re. power steering hose ,pic. of one I modified ,I use weld rod that works best with map gas, silver braze ,25$ for three sticks will last a long time and once you get pre heat then you kind of remove some heat to get a 45 deg of build up ,maybe twice around weld , that is a weld on male ,. Hyd. hose 5300 psi with swivel fittings both ends ,(blue hose is a rebuilt Mercedes hose ).King cab power steering decided to use U joints both sides for street , has 720 column ,(notice 1/2 or #8 weld on on reservoir hose)not finished and sending motor swap job to someone else to finish , just not into it , depressed and money was not there ect. focus on restorations/paint and hose shop only , that's all . If you want two weld ons get a hold of me .[url=http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Alleycatgarage/media/100_2547.jpg.html]][url=http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Alleycatgarage/media/100_2549.jpg.html][url=http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Alleycatgarage/media/100_2548.jpg.html] 2 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.