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New Weber Troubleshooting


rhabdo71

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I just installed a NEW Weber 32/36 DGV in my 71' Pick up today. Everything went good with the install except the accelerator cable linkage.

 

I used the original linkage from the old stock carb onto the new Weber but it's sticking. I attempted to drive it around the block but when I did the carb just stayed open at about 1500-2000 rpm (hear say). The back of the linkage where that little square ball the end of the accelerator cable locks in place was hitting a lever arm.

 

I had to place extra washers between the accelerator linkage and the carb where it bolts down. I needed a little clearance between the linkage and that upright lever bar. If anyone understands my issue would you respond. I have pictures but I don't know how to upload them since this website is new to me. Thanks any input would be appreciated.

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depending on carb You stock carn I see a return spring on there The one that goes up and down.

The weber doesnt have this and I believe you need to add a return spring to the weber also.

I got mine from Home Depot and it just enought o help pull the cable back. The weber has a spring in on the carb itself but its not enough. it needs a helper spring.MINE i GOT A SPRING AND STRETCHED IT O THE REAR VALVE COVER BOLT AND GOT A FLAT PC OF METAL AND MADE A HOLDER FOR THE SPRING TO WRAP AROUND.

SOFT SPRING!!!!!!!!!

 

Most weber kits have a new calbe holder that fit on the carbadapter. so the cable pulls straIGHT.

 

i USED MY STOCK 521 CABLE mount I had to slot the holes as the weber carb adapter the spacing is farther apart. Thus weber has new ones like above I mentioned.

 

the carb you posted looks like a 38/38 double opener

 

 

olddatsuns.com

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Please read the very first blog. Pictures of my 71' truck, old stock carb and the NEW Weber side shots.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

th_71Datsun014.jpg

 

soo... do what hainz said to do, and that is not a weber 32/36 DGV....... that looks like a 38 DGES, notice the two gears in mesh forcing both throttle bores open...

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rhabdo71

That 38 you have is that 2 ports for the gas to go in? I Never seen that before.Or is it a OVerflow?

I have a 38/38 on my truck right now. If you have a stock L16 it could be a little to much if you Punch it to soon or on a Hill. They can BOG OUT.

 

also if this was a manual choke. youll need to find a 12volt switchable source for the choke. or just loosen the 2/or 3 screws and turn the choke plate till its fully open. and just run it like that. Thats how mine is. I pump a few times(enrich the circut) then start.

 

sealick

That 38/38 on the right of your photo ,where you get that new Niclad cable puller??? That looks good.

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rhabdo71.

 

sealick

That 38/38 on the right of your photo ,where you get that new Niclad cable puller??? That looks good.

 

Came with the Weber kit..never used it though.

Was too deep... made the throttle cable connection about 1 1/4 inch from back of carb...which in turn didn't line up with my cable mounting bracket, on the carb studs.

Retrofitted the stock Hitachi trunnion to keep the cable closer to carb

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I accidentally uploaded the 38 DGES that I previously bought but returned it. Do you have any pics of your set up? I would really appreciate it.

 

Yes, mirrors do say Datsun somewhat high center of them.

 

I do have all the original return spring, nut/washer(s) etc, etc.... I really want to stay using the original stock linkage since the cable sits perfect in it. Once, if I decide to go with the NEW linkage I will have to cut the end (throttle stop) of the accelerator cable. There will be no going back once I cut.

 

Bare with me guys, I'm still trying to learn how to size the pictures. I learned that if you click on the pics it will enlarge them. Thanks for the input. If anyone has a pic of a set up I can see please post it.

 

 

 

 

71Datsun031.jpg

71Datsun030.jpg

71Datsun.jpg

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Now you just need a spring attached to the top right hand side of the trunnion....,going to the side of the valve cover. Maybe a piece of metal/bracket attached to the IM bolt.

 

Also...there is a washer with a tab on it...that goes behind the 12mm trunnion/throttle nut.

Tab is bent over prevent the nut from backing off.

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Actually remove the trunnion and drill a tiny hole through it....just large enough to except the (diameter) spring.

Drill it right above..or below...where the end of the throttle cable sits in the trunnion.

That way when you cycle the throttle...the spring won't interfere with the cable

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Alright, I'm back and finished. This might look CRAZY and it's just temporary but it actually worked PERFECT! The gas pedal feels tight (just right) and it no longer sticks so far.

 

As you can see by the pics, I used the original stock gas tubing from the fuel pump to the carb. I bolted one end to the intake manifold exsisting thread holes. I needed something to hold the throttle spring from directly ABOVE where the other end of the spring connects to the linkage. The trick is that the spring NEEDS to be straight upright just like the ORIGINAL set up. Well, I know that there are other ways too although this worked perfect for now (temporary) for me until I find a better bracket.

 

Thanks to everyone who responded. This website kicks ass! Forever a RAT!

 

 

71Datsun033.jpg

71Datsun032.jpg

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