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'73 1200 Coupe Project, aka Timmy


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On 11/9/2018 at 4:04 PM, datsunfreak said:

Planning to take it out tomorrow morning (weather permitting) for an extended drive of at least 20 minutes

 

And of course, this didn't happen. ?

 

It was about 35 degrees when I got there and only warmed up to about 45-50. This cold snap is due to continue for the next few days, so I'm going to focus on getting the passenger seat installed this week, so hopefully I can put some miles on it next week. I would like to put at least 80-100 miles on it before it gets really cold. January/February here it is often in the 30s for the high, so... 

 

On 11/9/2018 at 8:25 PM, Duncan said:

You'll probably find that as you put a few more miles on it, you'll be changing, fixing, and tweaking stuff as you go..

 

Most definitely. ?

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On 11/4/2018 at 9:54 AM, datsunfreak said:

  Now if you know anything about 510 rear springs, the weird lever ratio it has means that to get a wheel rate of 200 pounds, you need a spring rate of about 800 pounds. And no one sells a 6" tall 800 pound spring. So I asked a friend who was a suspension engineer for a big automaker what would happen if you took a 12" long 400 pound spring and cut it in half? Would you then have two 6" long 800 pound springs? He said that it would work in theory, but in practice you won't know until you try it. So I did...   ?

 

Hyundai spring on the left, 12" spring cut in half on the right...

 

 

large.20181103_182041.jpg.7d702e54b7c602

I think I will trim a bit more off of it at some point, but I want to drive it a few more times to see if it "settles" any...  

 

Also considering going to a 450 or 500 if this isn't firm enough. On really tight turns the car seems to have a fair bit of body roll in the rear, but I don't know how it would do on a curvy road yet...

 

The 510 control arms and springs are hinged forward of the axle so there is a mechanical advantage, like pinching a pair of pliers. The ratio is 3.8 to 1, so an 800 lbs/in spring will feel like only 210 at the axle.

 

For 450 you need a 1,70 lbs./in spring, 500 is 1,900 lbs./in.... which is insanely hard. Even 510s only go up around 300 for racing.

 

250 would be 950

275................ 1.045

300................ 1,240

 

Maybe a roll bar for the back? before the ride becomes unbearable?

 

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For 450 you need a 1,70 lbs./in spring, 500 is 1,900 lbs./in.... which is insanely hard. Even 510s only go up around 300 for racing.

250 would be 950

275................ 1.045

300................ 1,240

 

You may have misunderstood. I started with a 400 to get to this. I may also try starting with a 450 or 500. I have ZERO desire to end up at 450 or 500 wheel rate.  ?

 

Quote

Maybe a roll bar for the back? before the ride becomes unbearable?

 

This is being considered but I need more open road testing before deeming it necessary. I also fear it would hang far too low and get ripped off a dozen times. Seen it happen on 510s that aren't even this low. 

Edited by datsunfreak
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Finally got the passenger seat installed today...

 

large.20181117_161936.jpg.dd0f011d132727

 

 

 

Drove it to the gas station, and then drove it to get some lunch, about 10 miles total. Only got it up to about 50mph, but it feels really nice. It seems to go around corners really well, and the spring rates are very even front to rear now. ?

 

I need to get the wheels balanced and the driver's door panel reinstalled, then it will be "done".  ?

Edited by datsunfreak
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13 minutes ago, KELMO said:

I don't think either of my 1200's have a steering wheel that is properly clocked. 

 

This is a pet peeve of mine that makes me crazy, so I had to...  ?

 

And with a regular steering wheel (as in not quick release) it's way too easy to fix, so get on it.  ?

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2 minutes ago, KELMO said:

Dude, you've met me. You know first hand I ain't that smart.

 

Well, let me man-splain the easy way to do it...

 

 

Grab a couple of tools and head to a big empty parking lot. Loosen the big nut about half way off. Simultaneously wiggle and pull on the steering wheel until it pops off the spline. Push it back down just a bit. Drive the car until you have established what straight is. Slowly brake in as straight a line as possible. Pop the wheel off and recenter. Retighten the big nut. 

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On 11/17/2018 at 5:38 PM, KELMO said:

I don't think either of my 1200's have a steering wheel that is properly clocked.  I know the grey one for sure is not.

 

Mine is off by just a hair.  One spline in either direction, and it's off by a R.C.H. either direction I go.  It's kinda like "hangin' right" or "hangin' left" depending on the weather at the time...

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5 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said:

Vintage plates are the best. ?

 

This will actually be my first time. I normally do personalized plates, or just regular ones. In Texas you can use original year plates if you have an "antique" registration. This does limit how often you can drive the car, but it's not like I'm going to use it as a daily, so...  ?

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20 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

That's fixable on the tie rods, though.  ?

 

With the uneven roads here, I have to hold it one way or the other to keep the car going straight in the lane, so it's not too big a deal. ?

 

I also like the "FYL" plates, too.  Nice touch.  In California, our 70's-era plates here were a med blue background with yellow letters.  That combo = "fugly".   

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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  • 2 weeks later...

Put about 20 miles on it today and ended up just driving it to my house instead of back to the shop. The few little things it needs I can fix at home, and this means I can take it out more often to do shake down runs since I'm only at the shop twice a week and need to spend my time there more productively than just cruising around in my car...  ?

 

Definitely need to get the wheels balanced soon as over 55mph they vibrate a bit. Will probably do that in the next week or two. ?

 

Also need to tune the carbs as it's a bit rich...

 

And maybe change the thermostat since today it never got over 170F (it has a 160F thermostat in it)...

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