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'73 1200 Coupe Project, aka Timmy


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5 hours ago, KELMO said:

After reading through this(like 3 times) it dawned on me that I may have an oval port manifold for side drafts.....maybe.

 

For SUs? I would greatly appreciate a look see. Hell, I may have sold it to you...  ?

 

5 hours ago, KELMO said:

Hell, it's even possible there is an oval port down draft out there somewhere.

 

I feel like every 1200/B210 guy has at least 3 of those. We have a bunch but they are all round port...

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6 hours ago, Draker said:

There is a set for sale in the land down under. located on FB. $450 aussy bucks, plus first born for shipping.

 

Link?

 

Strangely enough, after some online digging, I found a company down under that sells a new downdraft intake to suit the Weber, with oval ports. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Datsun-A15-A14-Oval-Port-New-WEBER-32-36-and-Manifold-Carburettor-Set/331870907098

 

Sent them a message and was told that just the intake is around $260 shipped. Not a great price, but not terrible... 

Edited by datsunfreak
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SUs acquired, Solexes sold, time to move on...

 

 

Ported GX intake...

 

large.20181023_180955.jpg.9848195bafab65

 

 

Had to trim a few millimeters off the bottom to clear the header, but got it bolted on with a decent air gap between the two. ?

 

 

That's about as far as I got, but I couldn't resist chucking the carbs on for a test look...

 

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Saturday I will redo the fuel lines (yet again), and get everything bolted up for good. Fingers crossed for another (more successful) test run of the engine...  ?

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I also last weekend installed a new stock fuel pump and removed the electric one. Fuel pressure was way too high, and it was cheaper to buy a new mechanical pump than it was to buy a good regulator and gauge to tune the electric one, so...  ?

 

I also acquired with this set of SUs an item so rare most have probably never even seen one, that being a GX fuel rail. ?

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42 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

I also last weekend installed a new stock fuel pump and removed the electric one. Fuel pressure was way too high, and it was cheaper to buy a new mechanical pump than it was to buy a good regulator and gauge to tune the electric one, so...  ?

 

I also acquired with this set of SUs an item so rare most have probably never even seen one, that being a GX fuel rail. ?

I did the same when I bought my 1200, it had a Weber that I had never seen before, and an electric pump, ran like crap, so I witched to a mechanical pump, and a DGV to solve the problems.

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5 minutes ago, goes2fast said:

I switched to a mechanical pump, and a DGV to solve the problems.

 

I probably should have. It certainly would have been cheaper...  ?

 

These were a bit spendy, but they were rebuilt by Z-Therapy about 5k miles ago, so I think it was worth it... ?

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On 10/23/2018 at 9:05 PM, datsunfreak said:

These were a bit spendy, but they were rebuilt by Z-Therapy about 5k miles ago, so I think it was worth it... ?

 

I had ZTherapy do the carbs on the Sunny.  They were spendy, but worth every penny! 

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Funny story...

 

Way back when I started putting this engine together I had no way to run the block vent for the PCV up to the intake. I thought to myself, "eh, I'll figure that out later". And I never did...  ?

 

While I had the DCOEs off prepping to put the SUs on, I noticed the big gaping hole in the side of the block. Which may explain why the engine sounded a bit farty when I fired it up the other day...  

 

The block pipe is .964 inches in diameter, so I found this filter sold by Uni-Filter that has a 1" hole. Gonna put that on tomorrow, and the topper is that I also have the OEM hose to go from the valve cover to the PCV valve on the SU intake. ?

 

small.20181026_172229.jpg.1c60e75ae41fcc

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I guess you could run it backwards. The block vent has more baffling screens in it than the valve cover, but the calve cover is farther away from the oil fog. If this arrangement eats oil switch it around. 

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5 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The block vent has more baffling screens in it than the valve cover, but the calve cover is farther away from the oil fog. If this arrangement eats oil switch it around. 

 

Well, the current plan is the stock way so I definitely want to start there. And we ran it for a long time on Tim's car this way and only got very, very minimal oil in the intake. I will certainly keep an eye on it. ?

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Got everything buttoned up today with the carb swap. Fuel rail in, PCV hose on, etc...

 

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With all that done, decided to fire it up and see what happens...

 

 

 

Of course, then the logical next step with it running nice is to see if it moves. And it does... ?

 

It desperately needed a bath so that was first...

 

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I drove it about 4-5 miles around the neighborhood and it pulls HARD. Like, surprisingly hard. Can't wait to get it out on a twisty road and see what it can do...

 

Once I finished the test drive I pulled it back inside and decided to de-sticker the front lip...

 

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I liked the stickerbomb at first, but decided it wasn't really my thing after all...

 

The steering feels nice, brakes feel great (although pedal is a tad soft), front suspension is spot on, rear suspension not so much. My front springs have a wheel rate of 200, but the rears are about 165. I definitely need to stiffen up the rear, sooner rather than later. Trying to do donuts in a parking lot led to LOTS of body roll in the rear...   ?

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So the rear springs I was using were from the rear of a Hyundai Genesis Coupe. Mainly because they were a 2.5" ID at the top, and a 4" ID at the bottom. So I made my upper spring mount for a 2.5" spring (standard coilover size) and then the bottom of this spring fit the 510 spring pocket well. Unfortunately, even with 3 coils cut off, the spring was still way too soft...

 

I thought about how I could just use a regular 2.5" spring on the car and came up with this...

 

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Then Tim kindly welded that together for me...

 

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I drilled a hole in the center of that and bolted it into the 510 spring seat so now it can accept a 2.5" ID spring on both ends...  ?

 

Now if you know anything about 510 rear springs, the weird lever ratio it has means that to get a wheel rate of 200 pounds, you need a spring rate of about 800 pounds. And no one sells a 6" tall 800 pound spring. So I asked a friend who was a suspension engineer for a big automaker what would happen if you took a 12" long 400 pound spring and cut it in half? Would you then have two 6" long 800 pound springs? He said that it would work in theory, but in practice you won't know until you try it. So I did...   ?

 

Hyundai spring on the left, 12" spring cut in half on the right...

 

 

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Popped those in and they worked a treat. Definitely a good bit firmer but the ride is still decent. ?

 

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Car has a bit more rake to it now, since this raised the rear almost an inch...

 

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I think I will trim a bit more off of it at some point, but I want to drive it a few more times to see if it "settles" any...  

 

Also considering going to a 450 or 500 if this isn't firm enough. On really tight turns the car seems to have a fair bit of body roll in the rear, but I don't know how it would do on a curvy road yet...

Edited by datsunfreak
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7 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said:

So rad this is driving ?

 

I'm pretty chuffed about it myself. ?

 

Planning to take it out tomorrow morning (weather permitting) for an extended drive of at least 20 minutes to make sure it does well enough to drive it home (home is 12 miles from my shop). Still need to do some work to mount/install the passenger seat, and get the wheels balanced, but other than that I think it is just about "done".

 

Of course, they are never actually done. Improvements/changes will come as time and finances permit...  ?

Edited by datsunfreak
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2 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

So, were you right?  ?

 

Haha! Not exactly.  I thought you had the leaf springs, and forgot you went to IRS. (IIRC)  I've been following and reading but, (like my wagon project) it's been a long time ?  I added a leaf to mine, then de-arc'd them a bit.  By stiffening and lowering the back, I could run a bit more pressure in the rear air shocks without raising the back end too much.    In my situation, I was pretty happy with the result.  Sounds like you might need to play with yours a bit, but I am sure you'll get it worked out. ?

 

You'll probably find that as you put a few more miles on it, you'll be changing, fixing, and tweaking stuff as you go..

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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