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'73 1200 Coupe Project, aka Timmy


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1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

Of the two "you can't drive it until you do this" things I had left on the list, I knocked off one today. Got the transmission filled with fluid finally. 

 

Going to try and bleed the brakes in the next week or so. Want to shoot for a test drive maybe in September or October. Waffling on whether I should redo the muffler now or later. Plus I still need to modify, dye, and install the passenger seat... 

 

 

No pics because, it was filling a transmission. What do you want to see?  ?

Gear lube dripping in your face! ?

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1 hour ago, njoz1200ute said:

Dumb question did you use US spec or Japanese spec brake line fittings for your hard brake lines?  

 

As I mentioned in your thread, we always just buy metric lines from the local Pep Boys. Nothing particularity special. Just make sure it's metric, as there is one standard size that is very very close. 

 

But I actually only replaced one hard line (clutch line) on this car. Everything else was done with flexible stainless braided lines and banjo fittings, including the front "soft" lines, and the rear lines from the e-brake all the way to the caliper. 

Edited by datsunfreak
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40 minutes ago, goes2fast said:

Gear lube dripping in your face! ?

 

I hate the smell of gear oil sooooooooooooo much...  ?

 

I always run a 50/50 mix of 90W gear oil and ATF. So the gear oil goes in first, the ATF second. That way when it drips, it drips ATF.  ?

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57 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

I hate the smell of gear oil sooooooooooooo much...  ?

 

I always run a 50/50 mix of 90W gear oil and ATF. So the gear oil goes in first, the ATF second. That way when it drips, it drips ATF.  ?

Why not just use something like Royal Purple Syncromax? Has special additives for your sycros, and made for transmissions. There are other brands as well, but I have had excellent results with Royal Purple. 

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2 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

As I mentioned in your thread, we always just buy metric lines from the local Pep Boys. Nothing particularity special. Just make sure it's metric, as there is one standard size that is very very close. 

 

But I actually only replaced one hard line (clutch line) on this car. Everything else was done with flexible stainless braided lines and banjo fittings, including the front "soft" lines, and the rear lines from the e-brake all the way to the caliper. 

 

I can't find your comments.

 

Yes 3/8 and M10 fittings are so close if you are a newbie like me its hard to tell they aren't the right fittings.  They even hold fluid after bleeding.   I have to switch them all out eventually but don't have the ambition.

 

I thought a brake line was a brake line.  In Australia you can only buy one type but here you can buy 3!  US, English, and Japanese 

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On 8/9/2018 at 3:42 PM, ]2eDeYe said:

So it turned out the rear seal spring popped out during installation and gear oil was spraying on the exhaust..ewww smell to say the least. 

I also got a new leaf spring center pin, still need to swap that out. 

 

Was a discussion in one of datsunfreaks threads about reconfigured use of a gear oil pump. Here's how to fill quick and suck every last drop out of the container. 

 

IMG_7164.JPG

 

IMG_7166.JPG

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  • 3 weeks later...

Since we are very close to putting gas in it and cranking it up, I thought I would go ahead and address an issue I knew I would have to deal with sooner or later...

 

My original plan was to use the Ansa tip at the back, and another muffler in the middle. After much looking and head scratching, there's just no way I'll be able to fit a muffler in the middle that will actually do anything to muffle it. So I cut off the Ansa tip and starting looking for something that would fit in the back...

 

I found a fairly compact stainless muffler from Magnaflow that I liked the looks of so I ordered one. One issue however is the 2.25" inlet it has, where I have a 2" exhaust, so I bought a 2.25" to 2.175" reducer and cut it down...

 

large.20180901_125919.jpg.de029546a58eb0

 

 

So the plan is something along these lines...

 

large.20180901_130025.jpg.1542999319a2cf

 

 

 

First weld in the reducer...

 

large.20180901_131618.jpg.8878a6c71c8689

 

 

Then weld in the pipe...

 

large.20180901_132833.jpg.2e3594134d93ed

 

 

Chucked it up for a test fit...

 

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Fit is good and I like the location...

 

large.20180901_134952.jpg.02972f2c61134b

 

 

 

Need to weld those two bits of pipe over the axle back together, then I'm going to change up the hanger for something different since the old one is too far back from the muffler to handle the extra weight of the new muffler. Ordered some new hangers which should be here tomorrow, so fingers crossed it'll be in for good on Saturday...

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pipe welding done, and Tim welded on some hangers for me. Also decided to paint the pipe and muffler can with some satin black high temp paint...

 

large.20180915_124350.jpg.09a13ae3fd398c

 

 

I used these style hangers because I figured we could shim them off the floor if it wasn't perfectly level. Good thing too, since the right side pipe is about 2-3mm higher than the left...  ?

 

large.20180915_132228.jpg.8d5eeb2ea3bfe9

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  • 3 weeks later...

So I finally scratched the last thing off the big "to do" list and bled the brakes today. Pedal feels nice and firm and I can tell there's no more air in it, but the travel is a tiny bit more than I want it to be. I knew this was possible going in since I'm using a 3/4 master for a 510 and I have 280ZX disc brakes in the rear and 90s Sentra front brakes. I know I can eventually step up to a 7/8 from a 240Z to firm up the pedal a bit. Not going to do that now, but may at some point down the road. Have to see how it feels during more "spirited" driving...  ?

 

At this point, it was nut cutting time...

 

I went to the store and got 5 gallons of gas and poured it into the fuel cell and stood back and looked for leaks. None found, so in a bit of "future proofing", I decided to add another fuel filter to the line inside the engine bay. I used a 240Z fuel filter mount and filter and screwed it to the firewall just above where the steel fuel line comes up from the back...

 

large.20181006_123011.jpg.5392dbac2388c9

 

 

I forgot to take a picture of it installed, but keen eyed viewers will see it momentarily...  ?

 

At this point I turned on the fuel pump to pressurize the system and check for leaks up front. None were found so I turned the key just to see what would happen...  ?

 

It wanted to start, but wouldn't. I decided to break out the timing light and check the static timing. Yeah, it was at 2 degrees after TDC. I cranked the distributor back around to 10 degrees before TDC and turned the key again...

 

 

 

 

Rockers were a little rattley, and the idle is a bit too high, but it basically fired right up and ran just fine. ?

 

Ran it for a few minutes until it got up to operating temp then shut it down. Not gonna run it again for a bit because the oil pressure was a little lower than I wanted it to be. The rockers eventually quieted down some, but not enough. I'm going to order a new oil pump and install it, then run it again and see how it goes...

 

Assuming the new oil pump fixes the issue, then it's time for a test drive... ?

 

 

 

 

Edited by datsunfreak
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If anyone is reading this, I really need some help...

 

I am having a hell of a time getting these carbs to play nice with a stock cam and it just is not working for me. So...

 

I need at least one of two things, someone with some SUs they want to trade or sell, and/or someone with a stock oval port downdraft intake. 

 

If I can find some SUs now, I'm swapping to those. If I can't, I'm going to swap on a 32/36 until I can find some SUs. 

 

 

 

 

Side note, I replaced the oil pump today and it now has plenty of pressure, about 25-30psi at idle and about 50-60psi at 3000rpm. Getting good splash on the valvetrain as well (I wasn't before). 

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Someone here recently had some SU's for sale.  All I remember is he had a 620 truck with an L20 in it, and he had a thread about smaller SU's with an L20.  Check the truck forums?  The ad was up the other day..

 

And congrats on getting it running!  I know it's been a long time coming.  ?

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35 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Someone here recently had some SU's for sale.  All I remember is he had a 620 truck with an L20 in it, and he had a thread about smaller SU's with an L20. 

 

Were they A-series carbs? L-series carbs are easy to find (and probably what I will use in the end), but I need the A-series intake first...

 

The asskicker is that I sold an A-series intake to someone on here about 2 years ago but cannot remember who it was...

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1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

 

These?

 

 

 

Those were the ones I was thinking of.

 

I can't recall seeing A Series carbs for sale in ages.  Granted, I haven't been looking, but they seem to be pretty rare these days..

 

Edited by Duncan
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22 hours ago, Duncan said:

Those were the ones I was thinking of.

 

That's a bit pricey for a crusty set. I see plenty online for $250ish...

 

22 hours ago, Duncan said:

I can't recall seeing A Series carbs for sale in ages.  Granted, I haven't been looking, but they seem to be pretty rare these days..

 

Unfortunately, they have always been hard to find...

 

But I would be happy just to find an intake, then use 510 carbs. 

Edited by datsunfreak
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After reading through this(like 3 times) it dawned on me that I may have an oval port manifold for side drafts.....maybe. It is not in my inventory list but it seems I had one at one time. I will do some digging but it may have to wait until this coming weekend. Hell, it's even possible there is an oval port down draft out there somewhere.

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