Jump to content

Sunkist 521 ka24e


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 439
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Napa, Oreilleys, those sorts of places carry a boost gauge/oil gauge line with crush fittings for $6. Look around. The two Oreilleys that I go to, have the fittings off to the side with all the glass fuel filters, autometer gauges, Accell ignition, chrome, and big air filter section; usually right beside the front counter.


Kit comes with new plastic line, crush fittings, and the fitting that goes into the block. You shouldn't have to change the fitting in the block or even the the nut with the hole in the center of it that you tighten down. It's that little nub sitting by itself in the second picture that you posted, that isn't reusable; the part that "crushes" and seals the tube. If you want to use the old plastic line, then you can do that and just use the new crush fitting on the block end of the line. Probably best to use the new line given to you in the kit, which means you undo the line at the back of the gauge too. Install new line with new crush fittings at both the gauge and the block end of the lines. When installing, push the line all the way into the threaded fitting, then tighten that nut. How tight? Tight enough to crush the fitting and make a seal, not so tight as to strip it. :P


I put a T fitting in my block because I forgot to drill and tap the block for the proper size threads. Didn't notice until it was in the truck. The original switch only works the light on the dash and if your 521 is like mine, sometimes the light is on before start up, sometimes it's not. If the switch fails, if the light burns out, if you have a bad connection like mine, you would never see it if oil pressure drops too low. I would rather have a gauge than the light, especially a mechanical gauge compared to my Z electric gauge (its sluggish). I would try to find a T fitting and I have a sending unit from a 1978 L20B you can snag. Original threads in the block are British Standard Threads I believe. My T fitting was from a Triumph TR3 from my fathers shop. Seeing how your block has the gauge brass fitting right into the block, this perhaps means you're 1/8 NPT.


Redundancy is your fail safe friend.


EDIT: Here you go, just the line so you don't have to replace the entire system.



Oh yah and be careful with your brake lines. I almost fucked up big time with mine. I didn't use the Z32 caliper setup, I have the '97 Pathfinder calipers. The front brake hose is a two part hose which made it extremely long. I thought I needed all this length to turn the wheel and have suspension travel. Well it was too long and when I got under there to do some work I check out the lines. Both lines had rub marks from riding on the lip on the wheels! Almost ate through it completely! So I secured the slack, and added those metal protection spring things around the line. The back brakes were fine. I think a read that you were going to run SS lines, but just a heads up to you or anyone else. Also, for those who are curious, my Xterra 16" rims need spacers in the rears and probably the fronts. The rim was slightly rubbing the front caliper, just enough to make a rubbing noise, only when the wheel was fully seated. The backs, the tire doesn't rub the leaf spring but there is maybe at most 2mm gap, so if the tire flexed it would rub (205-50 or is it 55?-R16). And with Xterra wheels, they use the angled lug nuts, not mag lug nuts that go into the wheel, which means you will need longer studs (unless you don't mind unsafe lengths, because the lug nut will still tighten down) if running the disk brake setup. ;)



Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

Just an update on the truck, She is alive and running strong. The pedal is really stiff but I kinda expected that, im not getting any presure to the back so still working on that. My tranny wont go into third so im guessing its bad going to pick another one that the guy i bought the truck off of gave me. I bought the oil presure line with the crush fittings just for now but later i will end up getting the SS line just for looks :). I got a new valve cover thats painted silver and it looks really clean so im going to pick up a gasket tomorrow to drop that in, do all L16-18 series motor are the same no matter if it was off of a 510 or 521? i went to autozone and asked for one for the truck but was not available and the valve cover has to be sealed with cylicone right? oh and today I pulled the thermostat because it was over heating a little and the hose was colapsing, my boss thinks that it was frozen shut so just pulled it just to see what happens and also cut the hose half inch and streached it since it was kinda squished and created a semi kink in the top rad hose, drove it about 25 miles on the freeway and ran a bit cooler never passed 160 on the temp guage.

Plans to come is a quick release for my steering wheel since i work in THE worst part of san diego "city heights if any one is familiar" and my co-worker car got stolen yesterday and a kill switch and deff need to get my bench redone, my driver side springs are broken and feel the bars up my ass lol

Link to comment

Again for the filter... I would either run one of those little filters or connect it via rubber hose to the little elbow that goes into the underside of the filter on the weber dgv... I think you have a weber on yours right? i should go back and check.


then with the pipe coming from the side of the block, tucked behind the exhaust, run a hose from that to the manifold with a pcv valve. This way your crank case is under vacuum. It will draw the vapors into the manifold and when the vacuum is set, it will start sucking from the valve cover vent, which is why you want either a minifilter or a hose going to the weber filter.


My poor Z... I put mini filters on both crank vents which some debate whether that is ok or not... as long as the pressure is vented, you won't blow your seals, but the point is that it made an oily mess over my pretty motor after 2 or 3 years of daily driving.

Link to comment

Well I wanted to eliminate as musch hoses and cluter as possible. I was looking for a little filter, and the breather tube on my old cover went frontward when my new one goes to the back, so I needed to buy a new tube, I said what the heck! might aswell eliminate it lol


and not i still have the stock carb with the big ugly round filter on top, i do want to by a side draft tho

Link to comment

The elbow on the valve cover can twist with a tap of a plastic hammer. I don't know how the stock system is setup, so the little filter on the valve cover sounds good right about now! Looks good too... I remember I had to open the hood on the Z one time in a parkinglot and some dude came up to check it out. He was being serious, and he asked if the little filter was my "cold air intake"... <_< I was running triple webers at the time... dude... no

Link to comment

I love that gun metal grey on the wheels. Xterra right? I have Xterra wheels but they're the 4 spoke 16x7 ones. You wheels look bigger but it may be just how it looks when it's lowered. One thin is for sure it looks like you have way more clearance on the caliper than I do. The smaller wheels make our brakes look huge. :P




Link to comment

and not i still have the stock carb with the big ugly round filter ????????????

keep it and the hose that goes to the aircleaner. Keeps the stink down and oil mist comming out the top of the valve cover.


The oil line i would point it toward the fire wall that straight up. So if you could rotate it back 90d egs would be better.


The lower rad hose collapsing is the most likely proplem if over heating. Rev the motor up and see if the hose collaspes. Then look at the Temp Stat.


Datsun blocks are 1/8 BSP which is close to 1/8 NPT Butr dont use them!!!!!!!!!!!!!There are 1/8BSP to the common 1/8 NPT adapters. A good autoparts store will have them or Autometer.

Also Buy the Autometer brand oil line if you have to use a plastic line. not the cheap ones from taiwan. they will heat cycle then get HARD and brittle


I use the Felpro valve cover gaskets and just wipe them clean and reuse them also. No sealant. 5-7 pound torq thats it!!!!!!!!

Link to comment

Thats whats up! ;)



here you go, I'm still in school and didn't bring my camera for the enginebay. but these were taken yesterday morning after I detailed her.


yea buddy...that is whats up. congrats on getting her on the road. :thumbup:

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Josh817:Not the exterra rims, I have the 00-04 frontier rims with 1.25 spacer and 195/55 tire.



Banzai510:well im still trying to buy a breather filter and im not to worry about the smell, its a mans car and men like motor oil lol. as for the oil line i just bought one from napa just to replace it for now, later i will go to earl's fittings and get a SS line to replace it. My rad problem was the thermostat, I took it out and runs cooler. on the freeway it was running at 180-190 and now its a little below 160, my boss thinks i might have a timing issue aswell and the gasket i used one that napa gave me, not sure the brand but seems fine so far and my dad insisted on using cylicone -.-


Skyblue521: thanks man, it was prety exciting to drive her for the first time. Ive never had so much attention on the streets. people stare and give me the thumbs up all the time. feels prety awesome!

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.