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L20b head gasket


620fever

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Hey guys I'm 98% sure I have a blown head gasket on my L20B. I've got the gasket and will be replacing it on my next day off, Hainz said in his video to use permatex copper coat on the replacement gasket, I was just curious if you would spray both sides or only the side touching the block. This is probably a dumb question I am kind of assuming it's both sides, but I've learned too many lessons with making assumptions. Also feel free to comment on any other gasket sealers you guys like. I Also am curious if it's wise to use loctite on the head bolts, I've come across several threads discussing this but it seems like the question was never really answered. Thanks.

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Install gaskets dry. Nissan does this. If you had a race car engine with high compression or maybe a turbo motor with solid copper head gasket I might use something but for ordinary engine, clean both block and head surfaces cleaner than clean and just a gasket, nothing more. If the block and head are in good shape the gasket is all you need and a sealer won't be necessary. Sealers will will make taking the head off later almost impossible.

 

Before starting you are familiar with the fact that the timing chain must be locked in place with a wooden wedge to prevent the tensioner from falling out, right? If not sure, find out as failure to do so will add half a day extra (or worse, more gaskets and tools) to your head gasket replacement.

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some people do ,some dont.

I put a Felpro gasket on latest motor i have done.Not that the gasket was bad but wanted that head on this block.

I put it bare I believe.

seems fine

 

Some some reason I use the Coppercote on the nissan headgaskets. Which I usually use but the cost is close to 40-50dollars and I had astackof Felpro gaskets and wanted to try one out.

 

 

I do use it alot on the intake/exhaust gasket as if I swap intakes the manifold comes off ez and its possible to reuse.But notice the Nissan SSS gaskets are the best. Felpro intakes are the same intake size of 1.5 in but I notice if a lower bolt falls out they can burn up.

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Thanks guys, its a stock motor...for now, so I'll just use the gasket without sealer. I bought the plastic timing chain block so no worries on that front.

 

Aside from the fuel pump, exhaust manifold, carburetor/manifold, and fan are there any other engine components that I should be removing before replacing the head gasket -- I'm doing this while my motor is still in my truck. Thanks.

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Thanks guys, its a stock motor...for now, so I'll just use the gasket without sealer. I bought the plastic timing chain block so no worries on that front.

 

Aside from the fuel pump, exhaust manifold, carburetor/manifold, and fan are there any other engine components that I should be removing before replacing the head gasket -- I'm doing this while my motor is still in my truck. Thanks.

 

I didn't remove my fan when I had to change my headgasket, why do you have to?

 

DSCN0840.jpg

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Also I disconnect the down pipe anr throttle and lift the head off with thewe manifolds ON. Saves time, effort, gaskets and chance of having a coolant/intake/exhaust leak when assembling. The last time I did my L20B the total cost was $23 for the gasket.

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One tool that makes your life easier, along with the plastic chain stuffer, is a 12 mm swivel/shallow socket. I bought one from Sears and took the manifold bolts Hainz mentions off in less than 10 minutes. Once you get the "feel" for where they are at, you can get them off pretty easy. Well worth the $7 for the time you will save. If you do a search here, you will find a TON of tips on this job including a bunch in my posts when I installed mine. I'll also tell you to make your bolt holes as CLEAN as you can. Datzenmike told me to do this when I did my hg, and I honestly think it was what was either going to make or break the whole job. Cleanliness in this whole process is critically important, IMHO.

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