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My sr20det Datsun 510 build saga...


SSSEXXX

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This project is looking good! I think that, based on your photos, this car already has had a later 70-73 front valence swapped on. The shape of the turn signal area looks too big for those lenses you have and looks more like the later style. If the valence is bolted to the core support it has likely come off at one point, they were spot welded from the factory. Or I could be trippin...

 

Keep going with the SR! They are lots of fun.

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@ dennis - I was doing some research on the 280zx struts with mr2 inserts and am going to make a decision on the front suspension soon. I noticed you were considering going the mr2 insert route, but like me were not a fan of cutting down the 280zx struts. What did you wind up doing?

 

@bababooey - I believe you are correct. When I got in to the front I noticed the exact same things. Made my scratch my head a bit and I started to research the same. Looks like it is bolted in to the core support like you mentioned. Now I have a NOS 70+ front valence already. I know it will be damn near impossible to find one for a '68. Thank you for the compliments on the project. I have really enjoyed the SR build and I hope I can muster up the courage to go that direction.

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@ dennis - I was doing some research on the 280zx struts with mr2 inserts and am going to make a decision on the front suspension soon. I noticed you were considering going the mr2 insert route, but like me were not a fan of cutting down the 280zx struts. What did you wind up doing?

 

I left it alone. My front is lowered to my liking and I have tons of travel with the stock strut length. I am barely even lowered on the sleeves. The front is so stiff that I doubt I would need anything over 3" of travel anyways. If I cut them down to MR2's I would have to be at the top of the sleeve to keep the same ride height.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm so pissed off right now I want to slap someone. I will upload pictures soon. But the @sshat that did the bondo work on the driver's side, where the core support bolts to the front of the fender, should be shot. This tard welded the top of the fender to the core support and welded the bolt holes on the front, behind the grill. Took me damn near half the day to dremel out the seams and get the driver's fender off. Now the driver's side core support needs to be reworked, if it is even possible. Plus the core support may need to be replaced. This sucks...

 

Oh and PS, if one more rusty bolt snaps in half i swear I am going to kick a midget or something. I'm very frustrated obviously.

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lol!!!

 

Kicking a midget is better than kicking a puppy.

 

Are you using some penetrating oil to soak those bolts up? I feel your pain. The damn fender bolts are a bitch. Also make sure you tap everything once you get everything pulled. What really sucks is that I snapped a bolt then try to easy out it and the easy out snapped.

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Thanks for the love Dennis. I have been using WD40 to get things moving along in the bolt department. I am not looking forward to drilling out the lodged in pieces. I almost went nuts with my rubber mallet after i snapped the third one of the day. I decided for my own sanity that I would warp it up for the evening after I got the driver's fender off. Then much to my delight I noted that it was welded in place. I have absolutely no body experience, or mechanical experience of any kind for that matter, and I know you don't do that. I digress...

 

Plan to give the car a couple of days off and finish final assembly on the engine. Do you use a clear to coat the polished aluminum pieces you have done?

 

How is your build going? The one thing I can tell you I am lacking most some days is the motivation.

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Thanks for the love Dennis. I have been using WD40 to get things moving along in the bolt department. I am not looking forward to drilling out the lodged in pieces. I almost went nuts with my rubber mallet after i snapped the third one of the day. I decided for my own sanity that I would warp it up for the evening after I got the driver's fender off. Then much to my delight I noted that it was welded in place. I have absolutely no body experience, or mechanical experience of any kind for that matter, and I know you don't do that. I digress...

 

Plan to give the car a couple of days off and finish final assembly on the engine. Do you use a clear to coat the polished aluminum pieces you have done?

 

How is your build going? The one thing I can tell you I am lacking most some days is the motivation.

 

Build is slow, its getting to an expensive stage and since Christmas is coming up and I have four kids. The only thing I need to do now is order a bead roller for the tubing.

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WD is not too good i found for unsticking things sometimes....

 

I like PB blaster. It seems to eat up corrision/rust/gunk.

 

A good test is hold a nasty bolt in your hand. Spray WD on it, what happens? Now nasty bolt is wet. Spray PB, now your hand is nasty and rust covered.

 

I agree, PB Blaster is the ticket.

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lol!!!

 

Kicking a midget is better than kicking a puppy.

 

Are you using some penetrating oil to soak those bolts up? I feel your pain. The damn fender bolts are a bitch. Also make sure you tap everything once you get everything pulled. What really sucks is that I snapped a bolt then try to easy out it and the easy out snapped.

 

 

had that happen. i only have 3 bolts in my thermostat housing now because of it. and its tool steel so all you can do is polish it when you are drilling it.

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Quick question fellas! 4 pot wilwood calipers front and rear, but loss of ebrake functionality... Thoughts?

 

I still really want z32 350 brakes, but I digress..

 

I am thinking about something like this: http://www.ksportusa.com/asp/hydraulic.asp

 

Wilwoods front and back make sure you use a 78/79 280ZX Master Cylinder. You will lose your parking brake but you can easily get it back with a brake lock like here: http://compare.ebay.com/like/310292664150?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y

 

I would love to have something fabbed up for this: http://www.jegs.com/p/Wilwood/Wilwood-Mechanical-Parking-Brake-Spot-Calipers/757779/10002/-1

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Dennis, your rock dude. You are like a plethora of helpful information. I really can't thank you enough. I did a ton of research and have decided to go with 2 piston Wilwood calipers in the rear, 4 piston calipers in the front. Going to have the front 280zx hubs machined to accept the stock Sentra rotors so I can always find easy replacements. Still researching MC options, but the 78/79 280zx is definitely the front runner.

 

I have never seen a brake lock before, but that thing looks totally perfect. Doubt I will ever really need a hand brake. I saw those Wilwood ebrake pieces, but don't have the fab skill to make something like that happen. May be something I add after the build, but only if I don't like what the brake lock can do.

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WD is not too good i found for unsticking things sometimes....

 

I like PB blaster. It seems to eat up corrision/rust/gunk.

 

A good test is hold a nasty bolt in your hand. Spray WD on it, what happens? Now nasty bolt is wet. Spray PB, now your hand is nasty and rust covered.

 

Umm, I seriously wouldn't do this. I don't know what's in PB blaster, but damn, that is some seriously nasty shit.

 

Sorry for the quick thread jack.

 

Holy crap, I just discovered this thread today. Amazing work so far. Some day I hope to be half as patient as you.

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Umm, I seriously wouldn't do this. I don't know what's in PB blaster, but damn, that is some seriously nasty shit.

 

Sorry for the quick thread jack.

 

Holy crap, I just discovered this thread today. Amazing work so far. Some day I hope to be half as patient as you.

 

I hear you man, I can speak for myself and I take a lot of precautions. I was in the Navy for 10 years and worked around some seriously nasty chemicals. I have since managed to have asthma and major sinus issues. I wear latex gloves and work with my fan on and my garage door open. Hell I even wear face shields/eye protection and even a respirator some times. I know when I start welding again I will be wearing a respirator.

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Dennis, your rock dude. You are like a plethora of helpful information. I really can't thank you enough. I did a ton of research and have decided to go with 2 piston Wilwood calipers in the rear, 4 piston calipers in the front. Going to have the front 280zx hubs machined to accept the stock Sentra rotors so I can always find easy replacements. Still researching MC options, but the 78/79 280zx is definitely the front runner.

 

I have never seen a brake lock before, but that thing looks totally perfect. Doubt I will ever really need a hand brake. I saw those Wilwood ebrake pieces, but don't have the fab skill to make something like that happen. May be something I add after the build, but only if I don't like what the brake lock can do.

 

TSR (Mario Lozano) makes brackets for a cabled parking brake along with Brembo Sentra calipers (I think they are Sentras). Once you go the TSR route be prepared to spend some serious money. Mario is an awesome fabricator and his prices reflect it. If you want to see a pic of the bracket I can ask my friend Kevin if I can steal one of his pics.

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Umm, I seriously wouldn't do this. I don't know what's in PB blaster, but damn, that is some seriously nasty shit.

 

Sorry for the quick thread jack.

 

Holy crap, I just discovered this thread today. Amazing work so far. Some day I hope to be half as patient as you.

 

What I would do is do what the can of PB blaster says. Pour some into a foam cup. Also do the same with WD40. PB will go through the cup.

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PB Blaster is the way to go. I would soak every bolt you try to remove for about 10-15 mins then try to remove, even then sometimes bolts break! I know on my 2 door every other fender bolt broke on me. Please do not change out the 68 dash for a later dash! Your car is in awesome shape compared to most 68 510's out there, if you want to feel better about the way yours looks take a look at pics on my 68 when I first got it in the project section. Ratsun member krecs makes brake conversions for the zx struts alot cheaper than TSR also makes front and rear coilover parts

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Not to worry my friend, the '69 dash is for another project. For the time being, the '68 is staying bone stock on the inside. The interior, particularly the seats, is essentially new. I am focusing on a restoration and the sr20det build.

 

Speaking of which.... New goodies have arrived....

 

Baz and T'racy over at Datsport hooked me up with this little gem....

6328475520_0c8939c540.jpg

 

Also had the fortune of getting my nubby little paws on a CAN/AM unit courtesy of Icehouse!!! Thanks buddy!! This thing looks awesome...

6327725057_b4a1e0810a.jpg

 

And perhaps the most exciting of all..... drum roll please... PARTS ARE BACK FROM WPC TREATMENT!!!!! (Yes, I actually yelled that)

6328476394_c01bf4eded.jpg

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Now, on to the Dime... Updates are slow only because I am moving incredibly slow. If you remember from my thread introduction, I have little to no experience and most of the knowledge comes from reading post on this forum and a few others. Guys like Dennis, Dislexicdime, quik510, Laecaon and a few others have been extremely patient and have helped me a lot. I know, I know, shut up and give you pictures...

 

Hood latch and release cable out and pictures taken because we all know it is easier to remember than it is to read a manual..

6327743457_7bc230c028.jpg

 

Picture of how the hood release cable sits...

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You get the point... I unbolted the hood release from the interior and pulled the cable through the hole. Impressive automotive skill, I know. Next was on to removing the uber sexy suicide wipers that I cannot wait to restore and get looking fresh and factory again...

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Before...

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In between....

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Wiper mech...

6327754817_29452d86ae.jpg

 

All gone, and looking a little bare.... progress :)

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Passenger side fender off. I determined that this was a necessary step in order to get the front valence off and asses the damage to the core support... but this was not the thing that drove me nuts.... this was only the beginning.... total time to take off the fender was about 20 minutes...

6328512722_baa91dac9a.jpg

 

Front valence off. It was definitely a 70+ variant that was bolted to the core support and holes (an excess amount) were drilled in to it in order to make it fit. Yet another warning sign of what was to come...

6328510002_cee5b48128.jpg

 

Another shot of both of my last accomplishments....

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So this is where my explitive filled rage began. The F#$&ING retard that did the world's shittiest bondo job decided that rather than weld the core support back on to the car correctly, he/she would just weld the driver's side fender to the core support in more than one place. WHY??? FOR THE LOVE OF GOD?!?!?!?! WHY??????

6327761837_bda33249cf.jpg

 

So in my frustration the photography stopped while I busted out the trusty dremel and went to work on slowly grinding out the weld seams. The one above and on the bolt holes on the fender behind the grill. The end result. Well, judge it for yourself. I am no talent when it comes to mechanical skill and experience. I did what I could...

6327762915_3b4b5a1fa9.jpg

 

The core support will need to be correctly welded to the body, a skill I do not have. So when I take the body to the shop for prep and paint, this little gem is sure to cost me more than I want to know. Ah, the joys of our hobby...

 

I wrapped here for the day. Partially because I was really pissed off and partially because it was getting late. Need to take apart my 280zx hubs and send them off to be machined. Gone to have them tweaked to accept a Sentra rotor and a Wilwood caliper. Thinking about powder coating them a nice red color. I want black centered 15" wheels, so I think the red will really make them pop.

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You should invest in a welder because you're going to need it. It's a 40 year old car so who knows what kind of shiesty shit has been done to it. Just get it done. 68-69 parts are hard to find so try not mess anything up. S13 valve cover hit the wiper motor bracket. Don't know about s14-15. Soak the big wiper pivot nuts with a penetrating oil for a couple days. Just to be safe. What intercooler and radiator are you going to run.

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+2 on buying a welder. You can get a decent mig setup from Home Depot for around $500. Just make sure to get the gas kit with it. You'll definitely need a welder on a project like this. It will easily pay for itself. Practice on other things till you get good, then weld on the car.

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the clutch that came on your engine is NOT oem, Notice the blue on the friction disc? this would imply that the clutch has been replaced, and that makes you wonder one of two things, Does it really have 45k miles? OR Did it really have 45k miles of severe abuse that warranted a clutch replacement. I guess it doesn't really matter since you tore it all down. Food for thought.

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