ZackTheImpaler Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 So I don't know what size, as it's coming 3rd hand through the datsun chain. Frank out in everett has it right now, then to pumpkn210, then me. I don't know what size it is, just that it's apparently the largest cam that can fit in my L20. So now this puts me looking for all the things that are going to go with doing this all correctly. Right now I'm just accumulating the parts, so that when it's done it will be done right at once. I'm still learning alot, so I'm not sure exactly where to be looking for valve springs and such? I'm putting a huge carb setup, this isn't built for the best MPG I can get, but just to have a monster l20. I'm looking at 10,000 RPM valve springs, any suggestions on companies? 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 Do not over cam or over carb your Datsun. 2 Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 10k RPM???? your kidding right? no need to go bigger than what the engine can handle a BIG cam can actually hurt your performance if you dont have the stuff to support it, proper cam geometry the right lash caps a good set of valve springs port work done to the head and if your serious about turning so serious RPM get ready to do aftermarket rods and pistons and it if the cam is ment to be ran on the street it will fall of way before 7500rpm... not trying to be an ass but trust me the more you build a L series up the harder it is to drive on the street and unless you have someone good at tuning carbs (im assuming your running side drafts) and tuning the L series as a whole do a nice mild build and it will be more than fun Clayton 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 this is what I would do. set up another head all done up with this stuff and bolt it on with the carbs. so your down only a min mount of time. if goes bad pull head off and put the org one back on. Get a wedge tool timming chain tool. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 10k, all you need is a knife-edge crank, windage tray, dry sump, evacuation pump, external oil tank, and pressure pump. Plus tubular header and twin 44 webers. Quote Link to comment
ZackTheImpaler Posted August 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 1. The engine will be pulled, dissassembled and the head will be sent to be machined. I'm not doing this to an unbuilt motor. I don't like wasting money. 2. I'm looking for the valve springs I will need to be able to run high RPM because I'm putting a massive cam on. I understand that there are other things I will need, that is why I posted this. I have an idea of what I want to do, then buy all the parts, then pay people who actually know what they are doing to help me. I'm looking for a recommendation on where to start looking for these parts and which companies vs which companies. I see alot of people running Isky, but I don't want to just start buying without comparing. 3. They will be sidedrafts. It will be overcarbbed, I am aware of this. I'm sure there will be more hurdles than just tuning them to worry about. I'm mainly looking for advice from guys who are running hot up L20s. I know $100 a hp and so on and so forth. I've spent enough money and don't mind spending more. I don't understand ratsun sometimes. I'm building a rat, not a pretty restored vehicle. But a rat. If i were building an 800hp 1800lb 510 people would understand and think it's great. But I talk about ratting a 720 and everyone gets upset. It isn't going to be safe or easy to drive, that's not really the point. 10k RPM???? your kidding right? no need to go bigger than what the engine can handle a BIG cam can actually hurt your performance if you dont have the stuff to support it, proper cam geometry the right lash caps a good set of valve springs port work done to the head and if your serious about turning so serious RPM get ready to do aftermarket rods and pistons and it if the cam is ment to be ran on the street it will fall of way before 7500rpm... not trying to be an ass but trust me the more you build a L series up the harder it is to drive on the street and unless you have someone good at tuning carbs (im assuming your running side drafts) and tuning the L series as a whole do a nice mild build and it will be more than fun Clayton 2 Quote Link to comment
ZackTheImpaler Posted August 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 Thanks hainz and ggzilla! me and pumpkn are going to get a little overexcited with the carbs. we are thinking dual outlaws! :o I wonder how ratsun will feel about this.... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 Well if the cam is just for looks/experience, you don't have to spin it to 10k or even use 10k springs. Just don't rev it over 7k, a stock L20B will rev that high no problem. However the Big cam probably needs special valve springs because of the lift and ramp. And of course new lash pads with any new cam. Nissan Competition bigger cams required these parts: * New lash pads * Special valve retainers for competition springs * Competition valve springs * New rocker arms * L20B Spray-lubrication bar 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 I say the head swap as most bottom L motors can handle good power increases to keep YOUR COST down.The head is going to cost you and here were most POWER if you can call it Power in a 4 banger is going to be made. Plus sidedrafts are better than 2 down drafts has down drafts make that sharp 90 deg bend. otherwise just build a whole new motor on the side. You have another vehicle to drive to work? I wouldnt want to chance your "perfect attendance certificate" This is just my Opinion on everything. also Rocker arms are about 20$ apc Cam I would get new not used springs about 80$ retainers? 8--15$ apc Lash pads 5--8$ apc Or just buy a Webcam 488/252 Or Isky 475 or the 480 and come also with everything except rocker arms. almost cheaper to buy a used built motor when a guy goes KA. 3 Quote Link to comment
ZackTheImpaler Posted August 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 I do have another daily, which is why the 720 is getting a work over soon. The PL411 gets a new J15 next week. That is my practical gas saving get my groceries daily driver. I'm sorry if I post my intentions far and few between. I need like a copy and paste of what I've done and what I'm planning on doing to start every post I make. I know it's a 4 banger, and I'm not trying to fly to the moon in it. I don't expect to beat some corvette on the drag strip or something. Realistically I'm spending thousands of dollars to be able to drive my truck that runs like crap around really fast on sundays. I know it's "power". I will let my 67hp j15 get me my positive rep points for gas mileage haha. So Isky does seem the way to go then? It looks like that's what people like to run. I've already paid for the Cam I'm getting, and if it isn't any good (which I have faith in it) I will just order the whole kit off Isky. I'm not going to do a swap on my 720. I looked long and hard to get the 720 standard cab that came stock with an l20b. I wouldn't be surprised when I finish it if I pick up another project to drop a KA into. I'm grateful for your replies, even the negative ones. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 Go for the big cam. Lots of guys do that with Chevies, they sound good. Isky will give you recommendations on the valve springs, just give them a call. They sell dual valve springs for Datsuns. Quote Link to comment
Pumpkn210 Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 I don't know what size it is, just that it's apparently the largest cam that can fit in my L20. I'm not sure exactly where to be looking for valve springs and such? I'm putting a huge carb setup, this isn't built for the best MPG I can get, but just to have a monster l20. I'm looking at 10,000 RPM valve springs, any suggestions on companies? Simple Question! Do not over cam or over carb your Datsun. Wasnt asking for advice... And dont tell me or my customers what to do! 10k RPM???? your kidding right? Clayton Not kidding! Just wanna tell you both, shut up... Im really tierd of people trying to make decisions for others. It you want a vehicle built a certain way, do it yourself! If you dont know the answers to questions, dont answer the questoins! Total Cereal! <_< 4 Quote Link to comment
Pumpkn210 Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 If i were building an 800hp 1800lb 510 people would understand and think it's great. But I talk about ratting a 720 and everyone gets upset. So Freakin True! Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 First...you have to measure the cam, see what lift it is. Nissan Motorsport has some springs...M-99996-M1046 for about 90 bucks, rated at 280 lbs Will need a spray bar with that. Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 Dont forget with a giant cam you may have piston/valve clearance issues which requires special pistons or tricky machine work.Good luck with 10,000 rpms. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 A high-lift cam will probably work OK with the stock dished piston. It's with flat-tops that they machine valve reliefs into the pistons. Quote Link to comment
ZackTheImpaler Posted August 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Yes that is very true. I was trying to get an idea of what direction to head after I get the cam in my possession. I will keep nissan motorsports in mind, thanks! First...you have to measure the cam, see what lift it is. Nissan Motorsport has some springs...M-99996-M1046 for about 90 bucks, rated at 280 lbs Will need a spray bar with that. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Should wait until the cam shows up. Stock springs will bind around 480 lift? No sense getting something more than needed, or less. Some of these cams don't 'wake up' until 6,500!!! Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 I like this idea , and always wanted to see a real hot cam sleeper build ,,, :D Are you guys planning on running oversized valves ? if so may I suggest Stainless Arizona Z-Car valves ? :) ( I am more of a L6 datto guy so forgive me for being noob with the L20B , and specs ) :lol: :) Quote Link to comment
Pumpkn210 Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 10000rpm Springs Other Parts Really not that hard to do... Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Should wait until the cam shows up. Stock springs will bind around 480 lift? No sense getting something more than needed, or less. Some of these cams don't 'wake up' until 6,500!!! Yup...around 480-490 the stock L spring is compromised. The thing is...when you add the taller (150-180) retainers, lets say...that raises your installed spring height. A little more room to play with. I installed the taller outer Motorsport springs...and... just using the stock L inner for now....with those aforementioned retainers. Lift is 484 Would imagine the Motorsport springs would give the KAMEAR springs a run for the money..????...and about a quarter the price Specs on springs? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 10000rpm Springs Again, depends on the lift weather these springs will bind or not. Some cams go well over .5" lift Quote Link to comment
Str8_69 Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Look forward to this build thread, sounds like much fun! How much HP do you guys anticipate? How much work/upgrades from the flywheel back do you anticipate, if any? Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 I'm all for this, but keep a few things in mind. The biggest cam in the world doesn't mean shit if you haven't ported and polished the head, and will often cause massive driveability issues due to flow issues. My Datsun guru once built an L16 or 18 that turned 9500 rpm. He bent the valves 8 times. Believe the spring rate was in the 160# range or a little more before it worked. Even with all this and massive compression, it was only almost able to keep up with Todd's 2.2 motor on the straights. In the corners the torque got him. A 10,000 rpm motor IS NOT STREETABLE unless you're talking about a Honda S2000 and/or have that much invested in engine management. The window of power on a 10,000 rpm motor is dick. Back when I had a huge cam in my 2.2, I had power from 4500-6500, and that was about it. Granted there were a lot of issues, but flow as a whole is critical, including the cam specs. That said, fing get 'er done! ;) Quote Link to comment
Pumpkn210 Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Not sure on the HP and we are fully aware that there will be MASSIVE work ahead! This will be a money pit and come out the other end ugly, aggressive and nasty in every way! NOS is not out off the table... One of the reasons we are asking is for some direction cause I thought we were among modders and power freaks :unsure: Im thinkin that the rear end will have to be replaced, and we will prolly make a crude multi link add on to the stock leaf springs, if I cant talk him into a Jag rear. Obvious flyheel work, balancing and the hole 9. It will have all forged internals and anything else we may find to be needed! Thinkin bout getting a head meow and starting the processes that it will be needing asap. People have been building the shit out of everything since the begining of TIME, and I have NO intention of stopping meow! ;) Quote Link to comment
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