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DIY Vehicle Ramp

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I was gonna buy some ramps. Then I decided to try and make some.

They HAD to be safe! EASY and hopefully CHEAP to make!


Google search turned up the plans linked below - You can see they are 6.5 feet long and would weigh a ton. Plus, if you needed to slide yourself under the vehicle BETWEEN the front and rear wheels, the ramp would be in the way! Those features were serious drawbacks to the design.




I modified the above idea to reduce the weight and solve the problem of not being able to get under the vehicle between the wheels. I drew up some plans. I'm pleased with the result.


I hope you like these ramps.



Raises vehicle 6 inches.

They should work well with most LOWERED vehicles. (Maybe not slammed ones though :rolleyes: )

Easy to store.

Easy to make.

Cheap to make.

Can be repaired if needed.

The weight is manageable.

You can get under the vehicle from any angle.

Ramp portion becomes a wheel chock.



1. Always CHOCK the wheels.

2. Use them on a LEVEL SURFACE!

3. Have a friend guide you when going "up the ramp".

4. Use jack stands when working under the vehicle. Do NOT rely on these ramps alone.



2" X 10" X 10 ft. treated lumber (buy 2 pieces) Cost me $22

2.5" long wood or drywall screws - you will need about 32 - 40 of these

4 bolts - I used 3/8" X 2.5" Hex head - fully threaded

Wood glue

Small hammer



Skil Saw

electric drill and various sizes of wood bits and a phillips head bit for driving in the screws

Tape measure and pencil


Note: A 2X10 actually is only 1.5" thick and 9 and 3/8 wide. Also, I measured my 2X10 and it was actually 10ft and a 1/2". The sawing chewed up the 1/2" extra, so the measurements actually came out exact.


To make 1 ramp, cut the 2 X 10 into the following lengths:

21" X 3 pieces

18" X 2 pieces

13" X 1 piece

8" X 1 piece


Stack two 21" pieces and screw them together.




Place an 18" on top and screw into place. Then another 18" on top of that one. We'll call this the "MAIN PIECE".




Screw the 13" piece onto the remaining 21" piece. We'll call this piece the "RAMP PIECE".




Place the MAIN PIECE and the RAMP PIECE together and then position the 8" on top like this.




Draw a center line on the 8" piece and mark it at 2.5" and 1.5" as shown

Drill 2 holes in the 8" piece as shown. Make the holes big enough so the 3/8" bolts slide in and out VERY EASILY. Countersink the heads of the bolts. We'll call this piece the "LOCKING PLATE". I used wood glue to secure the bolts inside the 8" piece, but other kinds of glue will work too.




The matching holes in the MAIN PIECE and RAMP PIECE should be big enough that the bolts slide in and out very easily. In other words, the LOCKING PLATE should be very easy to remove by just lifting it.




Drill another hole 4" behind the 1st hole in the RAMP PIECE. Once the LOCKING PLATE and RAMP PIECE are removed, the LOCKING PLATE can be nested into these 2 holes in either of 2 possible ways, with a step at the front, or spin it 180 degrees and make it flush with the front end. Try it and see.




Make another ramp.


Get ready to load the vehicle. Line them up. You can actually "feel" each step as you drive up the ramp.






Set the park brake! Now you can remove the LOCKING PLATE and RAMP PIECE.




Easy access to the area under the door.




Here, the LOCKING PLATE is in the "STEP" position.




This Tercel has much lower clearance than a truck. Loading was a breeze.






Adding a STOP BLOCK might be a good idea so you can "feel" when to stop.




I marked the pieces as "P" for Passenger and "D" for Driver so that I don't mix the parts. I marked a center line on the MAIN PIECE so my helper can say "STOP" when the wheel center lines up. Storage is easy since they nest together in more than 1 way. They can also be stacked.





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Very nice, I love the removable section!

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