Cut and Buff your paint...

[Rotary510]

So how do you "cut and buff" (COLOR SAND) your paint after a new paint job? materials? tools? brands to use? Ths will probably end up as a long thread like "how to properly wash your car", simply because there will be tons of options and opinions. It's going to get interesting, I need to make my 4 cars shine, let me know! let me know! :hyper: :frantics:

[izzo]

I just did a quick search on the internet a few weeks ago and found everything pointed back to pretty much the same steps just different brands of cut and buff compound brands.

 

I am hoping to do it on the wagon soon, make it a little more shiny

[71DIMER]

So how do you "cut and buff" your paint after a new paint job? materials? tools? brands to use? Ths will probably end up as a long thread like "how to properly wash your car", simply because there will be tons of options and opinions. It's going to get interesting, I need to make my 4 cars shine, let me know! let me know! :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :frantics: :frantics:

 

 

Here you go: http://tinyurl.com/3t7y8bz :P

[metalmonkey47]

You mean color sanding?

 

yeah, color sanding... whatever you need to do to shine the hell out of a car months after a new paint job. I see bodywork dudes talk about it all the time, just never known how exactly is done.

 

 

 

http://southrnfresh....r-sanding-paint

[Rotary510]

I just did a quick search on the internet a few weeks ago and found everything pointed back to pretty much the same steps just different brands of cut and buff compound brands.

 

I am hoping to do it on the wagon soon, make it a little more shiny

 

links?

[Rotary510]

You mean color sanding?

 

yeah, color sanding... whatever you need to do to shine the hell out of a car months after a new paint job. I see bodywork dudes talk about it all the time, just never known how exactly is done.

[Rotary510]

Here you go: http://tinyurl.com/3t7y8bz :P

 

Hillarious! :fu: :thumbup:

[izzo]

I have since lost the links. Msg Jun on here, he did it to his paint after he painted his car :D

[SR20-620]

cut and buff really means cutting the paint or topcoat with a coarse compound, then a medium compound, and an ultra fine machine polish. There shouldn't be alot of wet sanding unless the painter was sloppy/ and or they used the newer base coat clear coat system which tends to orange peel more so than single stage urethanes etc. If you do have to wet sand I would suggest 2500-3000 grit paper, working lightly and thoroughly across the entire surface use lots of water to wash away the loose particles. Basically wet sanding just levels out the paint enough so that you can use the 3 compounds to take care of the rest. Normally the first compound does most of the work and the other two simply remove the machine marks from the prior compounds. I use the 3m imperial line with excellent results. I have tried many many other compounds and none finish out like the stage 3 imperial. Its a little over 50$ per quart. If your car has been freshly painted I would recommend you polish it out, then after 30 days apply a good coat of pure carnuba wax. Good luck!

[albyneau]

cut and buff really means cutting the paint or topcoat with a coarse compound, then a medium compound, and an ultra fine machine polish. There shouldn't be alot of wet sanding unless the painter was sloppy/ and or they used the newer base coat clear coat system which tends to orange peel more so than single stage urethanes etc. If you do have to wet sand I would suggest 2500-3000 grit paper, working lightly and thoroughly across the entire surface use lots of water to wash away the loose particles. Basically wet sanding just levels out the paint enough so that you can use the 3 compounds to take care of the rest. Normally the first compound does most of the work and the other two simply remove the machine marks from the prior compounds. I use the 3m imperial line with excellent results. I have tried many many other compounds and none finish out like the stage 3 imperial. Its a little over 50$ per quart. If your car has been freshly painted I would recommend you polish it out, then after 30 days apply a good coat of pure carnuba wax. Good luck!

 

The best explanation thusfar~ tho I didn't follow the links (work again beckons). And I won't get too wordy cuz this will bloat beyond term-paper big on it's own. To add to the above keep in mind the quality and type of paint. If we're talkin Maaco then you'll need to start with something coarser than 2500, or you'll be blocking for the rest of your life. Stay away from body lines -n- edges, and tape them to protect them while sanding/buffing ~ it is WAAY easy to burn (sand) thru at a sharp edge/corner, even with ultrafine paper. Use a closed cell foam pad or proper sanding block~ not just paper without being extremely careful! Your fingers will literally cut grooves (low points) thru the pain/clearcoat. Use allmost NO pressure on the paper, and sand in different directions for overall smoothing. And lastly make sure everything is brain-surgery clean~ even the smallest of grit/dust will leave you with dissapointment. Just the facts, man...

 

The only opinion/technique I'll offer here out of the norm is this: rather than use a hose do your sanding on a rainy day~ it's one less thing to hold/control/keep clean/etc., and leave you with two hands and full concentration to perform your task at hand. And even tap water can have grit in it....

 

Off to work~

 

Scott

[Guest kamakazi620]

You buy the compounds ill buff the cars and teach ya how ...have buffer will travel

[Eagle_Adam]

dbl post failure :no:

[Eagle_Adam]

You buy the compounds ill buff the cars and teach ya how ...have buffer will travel

 

ill take ya up on that - but you gotta do a ford fuckas :P

[Guest kamakazi620]

ill take ya up on that - but you gotta do a ford fuckas :P

As long as the paint aint peeling ill do it fo 50 bucks

[Rotary510]

You buy the compounds ill buff the cars and teach ya how ...have buffer will travel

 

I'll text you, need it done this weekend!

[Dirk Diggler]

Like said before, you should only color sand if you are removing scratches or horrible orange peel. Otherwise, you just need a good 3-5 step cut and polish (I would recommend having a professional detailer do it as its a lot of steps with different compounds and polishes as well as different machines and pads, will cost around $300 if in my shop, probably cheaper other places but you get what you pay for).

 

If sanding, soak the sand paper for about 15 minutes before using. Use a block and start with 1500/2000 (you dont need to go higher than 2000) grit. Keep the sand paper wet, I use a sponge in my other hand and squeeze water onto the area while I am sanding.

 

Im not going to type how to buff, it will take way too long and you need experience to do it correctly. I wouldnt recommend anyone without experience to color sand or buff a car if you care about the paint. You can sand or buff through the clear and/or base coat VERY easily.

 

If you really want to take it on, PM me and I will walk you through it.

[Dirk Diggler]

Just read kamis reply, if he can do it for 50 bucks id take him up on it. Its a hell of a procedure

[Dantheman]

Really good info. One thing I might add for the DIY guys, stay away from the body lines and edges. There is less paint on these areas. Lots of pros recommend even taping them to protect them from burning through with the buffer. Also maybe keep the machine speed on a lower setting. Keeps the heat down. It can be a dirty job, but well worth in the end.

[mrweld]

I have had the best luck with a good washing with comet on a sponge, Its gonna require lotsa high pressure rinsing to get all the comet rinsed off but I just did my wifes Econoline van that had been sitting for years. It has the common seen white powdery crap as an outer layer.  Good scrubbing with comet, then buffer with polish, finish up with a good carnauba wax and the "white " wont come back, paint shines like new pennies!!!

[tr8er]

I have had the best luck with a good washing with comet on a sponge, Its gonna require lotsa high pressure rinsing to get all the comet rinsed off but I just did my wifes Econoline van that had been sitting for years. It has the common seen white powdery crap as an outer layer.  Good scrubbing with comet, then buffer with polish, finish up with a good carnauba wax and the "white " wont come back, paint shines like new pennies!!!

I'm skeptical.  And I recommend testing this approach on something like an Econoline van to ensure your results are up to par.  

 

My advise is to invest in a closed cell sponge.  They are a big improvement in wet sanding.  Blocks are critical if sanding.  If you use a hose to wet sand, you may find small pieces of rust or scale work their way through the water line.  Rare, but really junk I imagine.  I put a piece of polyfill (pillow stuffing) in the end of the hose before screwing it onto a spray nozzle with a screen on the inlet.  It may have been overkill, but i did not have problems with scratches, and it was really easy to do.  

 

Polishing is tons of fun.  Taping the ridges and seams sounds like good advise I wish I had.