Creepy Cruiser Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 Very nice. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 I finally have some time to put this together, so here goes... You all saw the first pic, which is what we started with. From there, measurements are important. Find wheel base, WMS-WMS, front axle centerline, rear axle centerline, body centerline (front and rear) and ride height. Motor height, centerline, angle and offset are taken now as well. These will all be crucial when deciding where to put the new parts. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Removal of the steering column needed to be done, and is a pain in the ass. I decided to remove the motor and trans too to make the cutting, grinding and welding easier 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Decide where to cut. I cut as close to the back of the control arm tower, which ended up being similar on the 720 clip. Get out the saw and go to work. This is the most nerve wracking part of the job. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 More later... 1 Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 good stuff!....:cool: 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 This thread interests me a lot, ever since Eric told me about this, I have been waiting eagerly for the photos. I thought the frame cut would be farther back, but now I see that was not nessasary. This is an awesome way to go, keep the photos coming please. 1 Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 the only problem i see here, and dont get me wrong because this is a great thread but, thats not my truck on the hoist. :lol:. ;) 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 the only problem i see here, and dont get me wrong because this is a great thread but, thats not my truck on the hoist. :lol:. ;) Bring it on! I can do it for you. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 So now take comparison measurements between the new and old clips. I had the new clip blasted beforehand. Compare the 320 torsion links with the ones from the 720. Use the 320 torsion bars and their crossmember and the 720 links. The splines are the same, but the contour where they are bent to fit the control arm is different. What a stroke of luck that the spline is the same. Cut the new frame clip to length. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Cut the old body mounts off the 320 frame horns to use on the 720 clip. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 I figured with the measurements I took that if we narrow the new clip enough so the torsion bar width is the same, we would have just under 3 inches of added width when it's all said and done. This meant cutting a chunk out of the front crossmember and the engine crossmember. I think it was around three inches. I can't remember... Tack it together with a sleeve inside for added strength. Make sure the front and rear of the clip are the same width. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Waiting unpatiently, I need moar. :lol: :lol: :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Bring it on! I can do it for you. :w00t: pm sent. 1 Quote Link to comment
ol' 320 Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 Burrito, Wanyo, etc.... I used the truck to haul three loads of sand, gravel, and concrete yesterday and today.... Building a shed to clear crap out of the garage so the 320 can slumber inside at night. Anyway, with 1,500-1,700 lbs per load in the back each trip, it was sure nice to have really good steering and brakes:) Matt did a really nice job on this clip. And 1,700 lbs of sand coincidentally lowers the back just about even with the 2.5 inches Matt lowered the front when he reindexed the torsion bars. Eric 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 The clip narrowed and ready for install, I take my time here measuring and checking before I tack in place, and then more checking before I final weld. Use a splice joint plate made from 3/16 or 1/4 flat steel and drill holes in it for rosette welds. The frame width was actually 1/4" wider on the new clip so the frame plates slid inside the frame rail of the new clip and overlapped the outside of the old frame. The VIN is on the top of the passenger side frame rail about two inches from the splice so be careful not to cover it up with plates or welds. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 The body mounts can now be fit and welded on. Be sure to preload the bushing by about 1/16" or so to account for body sag. The sheetmetal inner fender wells have to be clearance cut for the steering box and the upper control arms. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 I don't like having to modify a part that, when it wears out, you will have to fab a new one, but in this case there were no other options. The center link of the steering has two joints built into it. It had to be shortened to match the width of the clip. I cut it in the middle. ...chucked it up in the lathe to cut the OD down for a sleeve. Leave some meat on the end to grab in the lathe... ...and cut that meat off to get the right width. This measurement is the same as what I cut out of the clip... Machine the sleeve and drill it too for a rosette, fit it and tack it up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 Very nice! 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 very sweet! Thanks for taking the time to do all the pics and the write up!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 very sweet! Thanks for taking the time to do all the pics and the write up!! Thanks guys. I figured since I got paid to do the job, I may as well share the wealth. More this weekend. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 ... one might think all you have to do is cut 3 or 4 inches out of the middle and weld it all back together and call it good, but it seldom works out that way. The funny thing is, between the time the truck rolled in and the new clip was welded up was only two days. It took 3 weeks to finish up all the BS like steering column, etc. I had 100 hours into it, but that included the shifter hump for the trans tunnel, the dash panel I built for the new Smiths gauges, and a rear bumper. Heck, the steering column took a whole day to machine and fit. It seems so simple in my mind... 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 The funny thing is, between the time the truck rolled in and the new clip was welded up was only two days. It took 3 weeks to finish up all the BS like steering column, etc. I had 100 hours into it, but that included the shifter hump for the trans tunnel, the dash panel I built for the new Smiths gauges, and a rear bumper. Heck, the steering column took a whole day to machine and fit. It seems so simple in my mind... I understand what you did, I also understand that now that you have done it, it will go easier the next time, as you don't have to work out issues that had to be figured out this time, but lets be realistic, you probably had another 100 hours thinking about this before you even started. It took me 3 weeks to weld up my 521 kingcab the first time, it took 4 days the second time, but lets say 5 days as I have not entirely finished it. This is an awesome thread, and thankyou for publishing how you did it. wayno 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 Here's where I had to make the new steering column and shaft. I used the tube from the 320 and the shaft and support bearings from the 720 then connected it to the 720 u-joint assembly. Mock up. Machine two bungs for the upper and lower support bearings. It would be difficult to visualize, but if you have the parts, you will see what I mean. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 The upper support bearing presses into the 320 column tube. The shaft itself is supported by the bearings and is held in place by a spring and c-clip. I actually took this opportunity to make a few adjustments to where the steering wheel was placed and I pushed it further into the dash and closer to the turn signal switch to close up the big, stock gap. Here's the adapter bushing for the lower bearing. Press it all together and double check before welding the ends on. 1 Quote Link to comment
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