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320 Balljoint conversion


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I finally have some time to put this together, so here goes...

 

You all saw the first pic, which is what we started with. From there, measurements are important. Find wheel base, WMS-WMS, front axle centerline, rear axle centerline, body centerline (front and rear) and ride height. Motor height, centerline, angle and offset are taken now as well. These will all be crucial when deciding where to put the new parts.

 

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So now take comparison measurements between the new and old clips. I had the new clip blasted beforehand.

 

320_Datsun_Frame_Clip_Install_029.jpg

 

Compare the 320 torsion links with the ones from the 720. Use the 320 torsion bars and their crossmember and the 720 links. The splines are the same, but the contour where they are bent to fit the control arm is different. What a stroke of luck that the spline is the same.

 

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Cut the new frame clip to length.

 

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I figured with the measurements I took that if we narrow the new clip enough so the torsion bar width is the same, we would have just under 3 inches of added width when it's all said and done. This meant cutting a chunk out of the front crossmember and the engine crossmember. I think it was around three inches. I can't remember...

 

320_Datsun_Frame_Clip_Install_037.jpg

 

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Tack it together with a sleeve inside for added strength. Make sure the front and rear of the clip are the same width.

 

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Burrito, Wanyo, etc.... I used the truck to haul three loads of sand, gravel, and concrete yesterday and today.... Building a shed to clear crap out of the garage so the 320 can slumber inside at night. Anyway, with 1,500-1,700 lbs per load in the back each trip, it was sure nice to have really good steering and brakes:)

Matt did a really nice job on this clip. And 1,700 lbs of sand coincidentally lowers the back just about even with the 2.5 inches Matt lowered the front when he reindexed the torsion bars.

Eric

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The clip narrowed and ready for install, I take my time here measuring and checking before I tack in place, and then more checking before I final weld.

 

320_Datsun_Frame_Clip_Install_041.jpg

 

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Use a splice joint plate made from 3/16 or 1/4 flat steel and drill holes in it for rosette welds. The frame width was actually 1/4" wider on the new clip so the frame plates slid inside the frame rail of the new clip and overlapped the outside of the old frame. The VIN is on the top of the passenger side frame rail about two inches from the splice so be careful not to cover it up with plates or welds.

 

320_Datsun_Frame_Clip_Install_046.jpg

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I don't like having to modify a part that, when it wears out, you will have to fab a new one, but in this case there were no other options. The center link of the steering has two joints built into it. It had to be shortened to match the width of the clip. I cut it in the middle.

 

320_Datsun_Frame_Clip_Install_057.jpg

 

...chucked it up in the lathe to cut the OD down for a sleeve. Leave some meat on the end to grab in the lathe...

 

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...and cut that meat off to get the right width. This measurement is the same as what I cut out of the clip...

 

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Machine the sleeve and drill it too for a rosette, fit it and tack it up.

 

320_Datsun_Frame_Clip_Install_062.jpg

 

320_Datsun_Frame_Clip_Install_063.jpg

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... one might think all you have to do is cut 3 or 4 inches out of the middle and weld it all back together and call it good, but it seldom works out that way.

 

The funny thing is, between the time the truck rolled in and the new clip was welded up was only two days. It took 3 weeks to finish up all the BS like steering column, etc.

 

I had 100 hours into it, but that included the shifter hump for the trans tunnel, the dash panel I built for the new Smiths gauges, and a rear bumper. Heck, the steering column took a whole day to machine and fit.

 

It seems so simple in my mind...

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The funny thing is, between the time the truck rolled in and the new clip was welded up was only two days. It took 3 weeks to finish up all the BS like steering column, etc.

 

I had 100 hours into it, but that included the shifter hump for the trans tunnel, the dash panel I built for the new Smiths gauges, and a rear bumper. Heck, the steering column took a whole day to machine and fit.

 

It seems so simple in my mind...

 

I understand what you did, I also understand that now that you have done it, it will go easier the next time, as you don't have to work out issues that had to be figured out this time, but lets be realistic, you probably had another 100 hours thinking about this before you even started. It took me 3 weeks to weld up my 521 kingcab the first time, it took 4 days the second time, but lets say 5 days as I have not entirely finished it. This is an awesome thread, and thankyou for publishing how you did it. wayno

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Here's where I had to make the new steering column and shaft. I used the tube from the 320 and the shaft and support bearings from the 720 then connected it to the 720 u-joint assembly.

 

Mock up.

 

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Machine two bungs for the upper and lower support bearings. It would be difficult to visualize, but if you have the parts, you will see what I mean.

 

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The upper support bearing presses into the 320 column tube. The shaft itself is supported by the bearings and is held in place by a spring and c-clip. I actually took this opportunity to make a few adjustments to where the steering wheel was placed and I pushed it further into the dash and closer to the turn signal switch to close up the big, stock gap.

 

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Here's the adapter bushing for the lower bearing.

 

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Press it all together and double check before welding the ends on.

 

320_Datsun_Frame_Clip_Install_082.jpg

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