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automatic choke parts


rubenz

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Some may remember i have been having problems with my idle staying around 1800 rpms due to i believe a choke issue and i was wondering if replacing the carbureator choke pull off and the carb choke thermostat could help remedy the situation. thoughts?

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Carburetor choke pull-off cannot cause this problem. It's only job is to pull the choke open about 1/8" as soon as the engine starts. If that doesn't happen if will run rough for 30 seconds is all. If the pull-off is leaking it will cause a vacuum leak, but not 1800 RPM worth.

 

If the choke thermostat is bad, the choke will stay on, and you can easily confirm that. After you've run the engine a while, take the air cleaner lid off and shine a flashing down the carb. Is the choke fully open, or still partially closed? They rarely go bad, so if the choke is not open it is probably a wiring problem, not a bad thermo. Get your voltmeter out to choke. How much voltage is reading at the choke?

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I had previously checked the choke and it stays close at all times basically. Every once in a while i can get the rpms to drop by goosing the throttle but majority of the time the choke is on which causes it to rev. I will check with a voltage meter today and see what it reads. What sort of power should i be seeing at the choke?

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it stays close at all times basically

Almost for sure, the choke is not getting electricity. No need to buy new parts. It should get 6 or 12Volts when the engine is running. It's probably getting zero.

 

For testing, you can run a new wire from the choke over to the + terminal of the coil.

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Along with my other problems (fuel pump going out) while going to blue lake, fastdadd pointed out to me my choke plates were not open like they should be, so i have a similar problem, but my idle is not at 1800. for the time being, you can turn down your high idle screw, until you fix it. im not sure what my problem is tho....

 

 

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