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mikec

blocks vs angled blocks

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hey guys,

 

it's come to my attention that my csb is clanking around on my 720 and i'm starting to wonder about the effects of dropping solid axle vehicles. to be honest, the truck is an afterthought in my mind because it starts and drives every day without hesitation. my project is the e30, and after playing so much with the fixed driveline/independent rear suspension on that car i just threw blocks under the truck without considering the possible consequences. i've heard some talk about angled drop blocks...how aggressive of a drop or lift should we be looking at before standard blocks become an issue? i'm running 2" blocks rear and a ~2.5" drop in the front. if these standard blocks are causing an issue i'd rather invest in something else than have to deal with other pervasive driveshaft issues in the future.

 

for reference, here is current stance:

 

 

 

jr9q46.jpg

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i don't think its in the blocks with just a 2 " drop look for something else maybe they are not tight or something

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A few degree s of pinion angle will eventuly wear it out, I put ad a leefs on a b210 and didnt ajust the pinion and it was making noise within 90 days, my brother drops 60s chevs all the time without a problem becouse the trailing arms keep the pinion angle good to the drive line, I would get the angles blocks if I intalled them, then again might not be that bad with only 2 inches of block, idk

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I have a 720 just like yours, Its not in the blocks, especially just at a two, I have a monoleaf and angled five's, I had straight fives for over 2yrs, I feel its just in the design and quality of the CSB, Is yours the OG or did you replace it, If so with what aftermarket brand, I bought a brand new one for my 620, was Anchor Brand through Oriellys, Sitting in my driveway, the isolator boot around the bearing seperated and turn the junk in like three weeks, and i never moved the turck, but I have been blocking and slamming trucks for years, and never really had issues with blocks damaging a CSB except on 98+ S-10s, but thats a different breed altogether, but just my 2 cents

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^ id listen to this guy he slams trucks.... I drive a b210, I got angled ones 3 inch 2 degree, but not installed yet, I would say to check the carrier too, if you dropped it changes the stress on that right? Sound advice he has

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At stock height, your two piece driveshaft is not flat , lowering it to a point of flat, meaning the level between transmission output and rearend input, would usually take quite a bit, so the stress of lowering your vehicle is like carrying a load of brick o blocks, its loading the springs with out the load, My 720 is now bagged and bodydropprd, and has 22 inches of rear axle travel, and still no issue with killing the CSB, IMHO your CSB is just goin out, or is a defect. If your CSB has never to your knowledge been replaced, or the driveshaft been removed, mark the mating flages to them selves to keep the balance of your shaft proper, but then again, you can always just throw it together, and get the balance checked and or corrected

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it's a one-owner truck, so i am very positive it has never been replaced - maybe the timing was just coincidental. i realize that 2" blocks do not create a great drop, but is it small enough to not worry about side-effects?

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The Height of the block/angled block is not really the problem to begin with. The problem with installing blocks is that it changes the U-joint angles. And you have to address these angles also(all three of them too). Did you check any of them with an inclinometer? Didnt think so, nobody does, but that is what needs done to be correctly installed. With numbers from the inclinometer, you can address the angles, and you really only have two ways to change them, Adjust the height of the CSB and pinion angle(angled blocks or shims).

 

Without fully knowing it, you are messing with angles likethis on your E30 when you lower it. However it has a fixed driveline and doesnt change, but the rear half shaft angles are certainly changing. But CV style half shafts will accept way more angle before becoming a problem.

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well the diff and driveshaft are fixed and the half shafts change angle, but so does the camber.

 

 

regardless, will the effect of 2" blocks cause enough trouble to find angled blocks, or is my current setup 'okay' within reasonable measures?

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regardless, will the effect of 2" blocks cause enough trouble to find angled blocks, or is my current setup 'okay' within reasonable measures?

 

2" is usually fine, and nothing to worry about. But, checking the angles will tell you correctly.

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How can it change the angle? The blocks are flat with parallel surfaces.

 

Really? Let me go get my Crayons.

 

That is exactly the point, it doesnt change the angle, but you changed the angle of the driveline when you install the blocks, now the angles may not work together correctly.

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What matters is the angle of the transmission output shaft and the angle of the pinion shaft. I'm just wonderinng how lowering blocks would change that.

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make two fist

extentd both pointer fingers

touch the tip of your pointer fingers together

raise your right hand straight up

the linoin angle and trans angle didnt change

but the driveline angle did

inturn changing the other two, i dont lowe trucks a raise them and in a raised truck the stock pinion angle will often ad way to much stress on the rear end. its tot to be the same for lowering right? if you raise the back i think the csd should need raiseing becouse the drive line will now assert upword pressure on it¿? and block angle wont fix that to he best of my knoledge. im wrong alot so take it more as questions posed than fact

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I think you are right. In the case of lowering, it lessens the driveshaft angle. Does that cause a problem?

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well i guess i cant say 100% for shure yes. I have bought alot of cars and trucks to beat on or wheel around , and in turn ive jacked up my fair shair of subies and corolla wagons ,pickups off all kinds , i have had trouble with it in the past so i changed my methids and tried to ajust pinion angle on anaything that i lifted ... but.....

i have to admit that i dont realy mess with a rear end on a beater untill theres a problem(besides oil levels mybe the vent) and it could have ben that i have had worn out rears that where close to go anyways. I tried to just "eyeball" the adaleafs on my sunny and it was wineing within 2 months , wasnt long till my rear was out ,spitin chunks , so i swapped a new one in without the leafs, about a month after that my 4 speed chewed up the rear bearing housing all under normal driving. its comin in the wheeling world to consider pinion and shaft angles but like i said a couple times im wrong alot and havnt lowered mutch so it mostly somthing to think on :)

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well the diff and driveshaft are fixed and the half shafts change angle, but so does the camber.

 

 

regardless, will the effect of 2" blocks cause enough trouble to find angled blocks, or is my current setup 'okay' within reasonable measures?

 

Your 2" flat blocks should be fine. I put more than 140k miles in 17 years on my 79 620KC after I put 2" flat blocks on it. 130k+ of that is with a junkyard front drive shaft replacing my original. I had to replace the shaft because the truck had a bad CSB when I got it. No issues since then

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I think you are right. In the case of lowering, it lessens the driveshaft angle. Does that cause a problem?

 

On the truck with a CSB, yes it is decreasing the angle of the rear half of the driveline. But now the driveline is running in a "V" shape.

 

At only a 2" block, the driveline is pretty damn straight, a 3" block is starting to create the "V". And at 4" or more, the "V" driveline should be vibrating pretty bad. This is why we install a spacer under the carrier bearing.

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i haven't really gotten to the nitty-gritty of the driveline, but i assume there is a ujoing in the middle at the support and one at the rear end. visually it makes sense that having an axle change vertical position either up or down while still 'pointing' in the same angular direction is going to kink the two ujoints to a tighter angle, am i right?

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i havethe same truck i put a 1"x1"square pecice of metal under teh carrier barring it work. it was making alot of noise before i put that in

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Just wondering, for the bellteck blocks with the 2 degree drop, which way does the slant go? Slant toward the front or the back? I was thinking the 2 degree slant would go toward the front to take pressure off the drive shaft, but the block fits terribly when I insert it that direction. If anyone knows I'd love the advise.

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