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280zx struts

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Okay I see. the strut cartridge slips into the tube and then is held in with what? snap ring or bent over metal tabs? Seen these before on cars just never changed just the cartridges. Next question, any other cartriges fit in these besides 210 specific ones? about to order cartridges and was wondering if any other datsun/nissan ones fit and are an upgrade. Id do 280zx stuff but am having a real hard time finding em so im just gonna put new cartridges in for now.

thanks guys.

 

Found this picture on JNC... they are held in by a top nut thing, use a pipe wrench to remove. As far as strut cartridges( AKA shocks) usually only the stock ones fit right in the strut tube. Can mod to fit others, but thats a whole other topic.

 

Some people put damper oil in their strut cartridges I think .. I've never done it though.

 

 

toyota_cressida_tokico_damper_install13.jpgjpg

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Guest LoneWolf

Hi everyone, awesome thread to read...I'm planning on changing my stock Datsun 510 brakes... from what I read from everyone's input...I will be changing to Arizona Z Kit upgrade...but to make that brake kit work, I will need to change to 280zx struts, also I will have to change the 280zx springs to coil overs in the front because they are adjustable... and I might need "Bump Steer Spacers" aswell... I'll ask a few more question before I change the fronts brakes on my 510... Quick question to anyone...does the 280zx spindle shaft sit at the same angle as my 510 one? otherwise I will probably need to use some camber plates or something to correct the angles of the spindles...

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Looks to be the same angle to me, dont need coil overs tho, you can use a split collar to hold the stock perch in place. adjust them to where ever, and tighten it down and ferget it.

 

 

I would all so like to expand on that by sayin that it you do wamt to run more camber and cant afford or find or want to get some ricer ass aluminum threaded pipe, with cute colors and little springs and hot pink camber plates you can...

Use a b210 top hat and bearing

With a b210 ooooor z car (not zx) eich is the same size

With a b210 or z car (not zx) spring

The z spring seam to be quite a bit stiffer

Then use a shaft collar to support the lower perch

 

With this combo you can get as much camber as coils and plates, just trim the inner edge of the hat, and drill hole for the strut top inboard from the stock ones.

 

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Apperently if your a bad ass you can do the whole swap with out taking the wheel off :lol: :rofl: :rofl: :raffle:

 

 

 

Found this picture on JNC... they are held in by a top nut thing, use a pipe wrench to remove. As far as strut cartridges( AKA shocks) usually only the stock ones fit right in the strut tube. Can mod to fit others, but thats a whole other topic.

 

Some people put damper oil in their strut cartridges I think .. I've never done it though.

 

 

toyota_cressida_tokico_damper_install13.jpgjpg

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Strictly, you do not have to used coil overs to have an adjustable height.The zx struts are 1 1/2" shorter than the stock 510 struts and yes the spindle is the same angle. The zx spring is way, way too large a diameter to fit up inside the 510 strut tower so it has to go. What you can do is carefully trim off the lower spring mount from the old 510 strut and trim off one coil from the spring. Removing a coil will increase the spring rate... a good thing on a lowered car to reduce suspension travel and firm up the ride. Not totally necessary but stock springs are always a compromise and on the soft side. Do the same to the zx strut and grind the remaining weld down smooth on the strut tube. Now slip the 510 lower spring mount and shorter spring on the zx strut tube and assemble with the old 510 top hat. To prevent the spring perch from sliding down the tube use a split collar that can be moved up or down to set the height.

Trim just above the weld on the lower spring perch with angle grinder and 6" metal cutting blade.
strutmods004Large-1.jpg

Tap the perch loos and off...
strutmods005Large-1.jpg


Remove and grind down the weld till smooth so the split collar can slide smoothly and grip the strut tube.
strutmods006Large.jpg

Loosely assembled strut with spring, spring perch and split collar underneath. The split collar will withstand 6,000 lbs each! That's almost three 510s on each split collar... they won't slip when tightened.
strutmods010Large.jpg


I did this on my 710 which has similar struts and brakes to the 510, using Maxima wagon struts which are almost exactly the same as the zx struts.
710strutupgrade004Large.jpg

strutmods004Large.jpg

Maxima and 710 struts and brakes.
1TBexternalharddrive004Large.jpg

One additional thing I did was increase the damping to compliment the increased spring rate. To do this is easy, I just removed the gland nut.... thanks for picture.

toyota_cressida_tokico_damper_install13.


and poured out the very thin watery hydraulic oil. (looks like 5 or 10W) I refilled the strut with 20w motorcycle fork oil which is high in rust inhibitors and anti foaming agents and also comes in a variety of different weights. The hardest part was holding upside down and pulling the strut rod out and pushing in to dispel any bubbles when bleeding them. Leave a 1/2" of space at the top for heat expansion.

Cost?
$3.50............ metal cutting blade
$20............... two two inch split collars
$17............... 1 liter of 20W BellRay fork oil. Enough for three struts. (you can use $5 a gallon hydraulic jack oil or Auto trans fluid too)

Total about $50

Not as easy as $350-$1,200 coil overs to adjust, but hey, once you get the ride height you want how many times a week you going to adjust it anyway???????

edit: I see it's for a 210 so just sub 210 where it says 510. One coil removed from the 710 increases the spring rate from 100 to 150 lbs per inch or about 50%. I don't know what the 210 rate would be

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Mike, your much better at explaining things than i am, but ive notice not verry many struts have stock oil filled cartridges these days tho, atleast the 5 sets ive stripped have had gas shocks.

 

The b210 top hats bolt right right into a 510, but the spring, or the z spring wich ever you use, is smaller around than the 510, or the 710, so you would have more room in the tower to ajust camber/caster, maybe tire too.

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Yeah I was composing that while you were posting yours. ;)

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Guest LoneWolf

Hi RedBanner and DatzenMike, thanks for more info on 280zx brake conversion...thanks a bunch... I know, I probably will never even change the height so coil overs will NOT be needed...and i think you said the 280zx struts system is already a little lower(cool) and you also said the 280zx spindle shaft is at a DIFFERENT ANGLE..., so I'm thinking to correct that problem I will be using some kind of camber plates... I'll ask more questions before I do my brake conversion. Oh have you ever heard some strut inserts are filled will antifreeze(after their cut and shortened)???

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Antifreeze, nope, could be real tho, just dont see a point..

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Antifreeze, nope, could be real tho, just dont see a point..

 

Anti freeze helps disipate the heat from the shock inserts. If you're just cruising around in the car there's no need. I think even with some serious driving there's really no need for this, but every little bit helps and there's no downside, so why not?

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the factory uses alittle motor oil in the tube to help isolate the insert so antifreeze would make sense to help disipate heat better.

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I've got a question for you guys as I'm planning on doing this swap... I was reading Dave Coleman's rally beater 510 build (it's on Modified Magazine's web archive now), and he said when the 280zx struts and brakes are swapped on, the pads wear down the calipers slide in and they hit the outer tie rod. His solution to the problem is to keep an eye on the pads and keep running fresh ones.

 

I don't think I've ever seen anybody else mention this in my researching. Anybody experience this?

 

Very common problem. Seldom do you get down past 1/2 pad before the caliper hits the tie rod and the brakes just kind of "go away". :P

 

But there is a VERY simple (and free!) fix. Put the left strut on the right side, and the right strut on the left side. ;)

 

Fits up perfectly fine, moves the calipers to the front instead of the back, and no more interference. B)

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Antifreeze? Strut cartridges (or inserts) are sealed like shock absorbers. Many struts come from the factory with internal valving that can be rebuilt or replaced. When worn you can simply replace the fluid with something slightly thicker. If you have replaceable strut cartridges, just fill the empty space around them with hydraulic oil or ATF to conduct heat to the strut tube. Antifreeze is ethylene glycol... I don't see it holding or conducting heat very well. When mixed with water it reduces water's ability to hold heat.

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The zx struts are 1 1/2" shorter than the stock 510 struts and yes the spindle is at a different angle...

 

Mike,

I have 280ZX struts and actually measured them. Mine HAVE the same angle as the 510. It appears that the majority are the same, but on occassion you hear about odd ball struts that have a higher tube to spindle angle. These seem to appear for no ryme or reason.

 

Here is a comparison comparison photo taken by Bluebird List member Kelvin Dietz showing the 280ZX and 510 struts having the same angle.

9510_VS_280ZX_STRUT_COMPARE.jpg

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I heard that the '68-'69 struts were different than the later on the 510, also there were differences in the bearing and spindle size.

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Guest LoneWolf

Hi Dime Dave, thanks for info on the 280zx spindle shaft angle question...I've heard conflicting things about that...but if I do run into problems I think I will be using some camber plates at the top of the strut tower.

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I've heard on here in a couple threads that the 280zx struts pull the wheel in about 3/4 of an inch compared with the stock 510 strut. Does anyone know where this 3/4 inch "tuck" is gained? in the 280zx top hat angle? or where it mounts up in the bottom of the strut? I want to continue running my 510 brakes (and/or struts) but I want that 3/4 of an inch.

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I'm pretty sure the tuck comes from the bottom because I am only using the zx strut housing not the top hat and I gained the 3/4" of tuck. If the top was adjusted with tons of camber you could get maybe 3/4" but only at the top. Zx struts bring the whole wheel inboard right at the spindle. Possibly because the hub is thinner? I never checked that tho.

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Fourfiveten is correct...ZX struts have a narrower (sp?) track width of ~3/4". Top hats do not matter.

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New information/affirmation of information!!!

 

ZX Top hats vs the 510 Top hats.

 

Rumor: ZX top hats are skinnier than 510 top hats.

 

I have heard this from a few people but always in passing. I set out to find out today.

 

Here are the 2, 510 on the right:

SNC10521.JPG

 

For some quick measurements:

SNC10512.JPG

510:

SNC10514.JPG

SNC10522.JPG

ZX:

SNC10520.JPG

SNC10523.JPG

 

 

That would look like 1/2" difference to me! Well maybe not huge, it is something.

 

Now you will need to trim the top hat to fit:

SNC10526.JPG

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And sorry, I think the lens on my camera needs a serious cleaning.

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Guest 510kamikazifreak

Is the spring not of a larger diameter.

Also what (if it works) is the caster angle going to be like

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This is just the part that bolts to the strut tower. The actual upper spring perch will remain 510. This is the part where the bearing sits at the top. Still using the 510 spring.

 

Castor should be the same. As before as well. If anything this will add negative camber, but not much.

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Guest 510kamikazifreak

This is just the part that bolts to the strut tower. The actual upper spring perch will remain 510. This is the part where the bearing sits at the top. Still using the 510 spring.

 

Castor should be the same. As before as well. If anything this will add negative camber, but not much.

 

 

Yeh duh me..

This is the parts that usually hit the trash bin, and make way for Coil overs.

 

I am really curious on the caster angle.

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Why would caster change at all? The top of the shock still mounts dead center of the 3 posts like it does stock. Now the top of the shock is just higher.

 

Why did I do this? Well I needed to retain my ride height (I like where it is at), but my lower spring perch was too low, Gaining 1/2" at the top allowed me to raise the the lower spring perch 1/2".

 

So for anyone going to do the ZX strut swap, you might as well use the top hat for more low.

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