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nissan 5 speed manual transmission top gear switch


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so i dropped out the 3 speed automatic transmission out of my 720. i dropped in a 5 speed with a new clutch kit. i had to wire the park/neutral wires together to make it start. the problem im having now is when ever the truck is in gear or in neutral (without the clutch pedal pressed to the floor) it makes a slight knocking sound. it never made that sound when it was in the other truck. i filled the 5 speed with 85-140 oil. i was reading in my haynes manual about a top gear switch. i have never heard of that before and what does it do? could that be making the knocking sound in the tranny?

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Get a stethoscope and a low profile under-car creeper. Find a flat street with decent pavement and secure yourself under the car/truck while laying on the creeper. Have your friend drive it up and down the street until you either locate the source of the sound or get your clothes yanked up into the driveshaft and die one of the more grusome deaths known to man.

 

Simple! thumbup1.gif

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Get a stethoscope and a low profile under-car creeper. Find a flat street with decent pavement and secure yourself under the car/truck while laying on the creeper. Have your friend drive it up and down the street until you either locate the source of the sound or get your clothes yanked up into the driveshaft and die one of the more grusome deaths known to man.

 

Simple! thumbup1.gif

 

WOW!!! I hope you are not speaking from personal experience here :lol: :lol:

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Does the sound go away when you push the pedal to the floor????

If the sound does go away...could be input or counter shaft bearing....or

Pilot(new) bushing installed?

 

yea the sound goes away when i push on the clutch pedal. it never made that sound before when it was in the other truck

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yea the sound goes away when i push on the clutch pedal. it never made that sound before when it was in the other truck

 

Could be a NFG pilot bushing..?????.....but.

Did you hang the trannie on the back of the engine before you bolted it up.....that has a tendency of compromising an aged input shaft/bearing....and or.

Check the oil drain (magnetic) bung....should start seeing some residual metal if the trannie is starting to go 'south'

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Could be a NFG pilot bushing..?????.....but.

Did you hang the trannie on the back of the engine before you bolted it up.....that has a tendency of compromising an aged input shaft/bearing....and or.

Check the oil drain (magnetic) bung....should start seeing some residual metal if the trannie is starting to go 'south'

 

yeah it was kinda hanging on the engine and the tail end was supported by a floor jack. i drained out the oil today and yea there was a very small chunk of metal that was stuck to the magnet. would it be ok to drive for the next day just to get to work and back which is a total of 8 miles?

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yea the sound goes away when i push on the clutch pedal. it never made that sound before when it was in the other truck

 

 

When clutch is engaged, peddle up, the release bearing is not spinning and the input shaft and pilot bushing are 'mated' and turning together.

 

When the clutch is depressed the input shaft stops spinning but the release bearing is under load and spinning.

 

'Sounds' like a bearing. Try driving in 4th under load. If quieter than the bottom three then it could very well be the bottom front counter bearing. If still noisy it could be a mainshaft bearing. Either way this isn't going away.

 

Check oil level? Should be level with fill hole.

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When clutch is engaged, peddle up, the release bearing is not spinning and the input shaft and pilot bushing are 'mated' and turning together.

 

When the clutch is depressed the input shaft stops spinning but the release bearing is under load and spinning.

 

'Sounds' like a bearing. Try driving in 4th under load. If quieter than the bottom three then it could very well be the bottom front counter bearing. If still noisy it could be a mainshaft bearing. Either way this isn't going away.

 

Check oil level? Should be level with fill hole.

 

yeah then its got to be the counter shaft bearing. it defently doesnt make any noise in 4th

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All gears but 4th have to have power transmitted through the counter shaft. If it's the front counter bearing this is a fairly easy fix. You can remove the front case with a pair of snap ring pliers (if you are careful/skilful a small screwdriver will get it out) and a 12mm wrench. A medium small gear puller will pull the bearing off and a sledge and block of wood to hammer the new one on.

 

If the rear bearing in the adapter plate then it's a bit more involved.

 

This is the front counter bearing

 

FS5W71CMainandcountershaftfrontbear.jpg

 

Here's a bad one that was in a diesel 720 5spd that I took apart. I have removed the drain plug with the magnet on it and found ball bearings stuck to it.

 

FS5W71Bteardown003Large.jpg

 

To prevent this, simply replace the tranny oil every 3-5 years and down shift to 4th to pass, climb steep hills and if towing.

.

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All gears but 4th have to have power transmitted through the counter shaft. If it's the front counter bearing this is a fairly easy fix. You can remove the front case with a pair of snap ring pliers (if you are careful/skilful a small screwdriver will get it out) and a 12mm wrench. A medium small gear puller will pull the bearing off and a sledge and block of wood to hammer the new one on.

 

If the rear bearing in the adapter plate then it's a bit more involved.

 

This is the front counter bearing

 

FS5W71CMainandcountershaftfrontbear.jpg

 

Here's a bad one that was in a diesel 720 5spd that I took apart. I have removed the drain plug with the magnet on it and found ball bearings stuck to it.

 

FS5W71Bteardown003Large.jpg

 

To prevent this, simply replace the tranny oil every 3-5 years and down shift to 4th to pass, climb steep hills and if towing.

.

 

awesome right on thanks a bunch brother!

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Yes, it should run better performance if you bypass the switch. Unless it is used for the fuel-cut solenoid. some datsuns do that. In which case bypassing it will hurt the fuel economy.

 

Your owner's manual will probably say what it is for (read the emissions section).

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Yes, it should run better performance if you bypass the switch. Unless it is used for the fuel-cut solenoid. some datsuns do that. In which case bypassing it will hurt the fuel economy.

 

Your owner's manual will probably say what it is for (read the emissions section).

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i installed a weber 32/36 so i defiantly know that its not gonna effect the fuel cut off solenoid but lets say i do hook it up what wires would i hook it up to since i swapped out my automatic for a manual

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I doubt the top gear switch affects the idle cut solenoid.

I believe the ICS is only utilized on deceleration and engine shut off.

I was going to install a switch in 1 of my trannies and see which gear it trips....but...never got around to it.

Assuming it would be 5th though

Maybe the switch diverts vacuum to the vacuum advance, on the distributor.... in high/top gear only????

Have those wires unplugged and or on a few trucks...no diff.

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I doubt the top gear switch affects the idle cut solenoid.

I believe the ICS is only utilized on deceleration and engine shut off.

I was going to install a switch in 1 of my trannies and see which gear it trips....but...never got around to it.

Assuming it would be 5th though

Maybe the switch diverts vacuum to the vacuum advance, on the distributor.... in high/top gear only????

Have those wires unplugged and or on a few trucks...no diff.

 

yea i didnt think it would make a difference. i cant wait to get this baby back on the road

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The early fuel shut off system uses a vacuum switch (to sense high manifold vacuum when decelerating) a clutch switch so it can't operate when the clutch is being used and stall the motor, a neutral switch (same but with the clutch out). Later ones added a throttle position switch. I don't think the top gear switch is used at all.

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