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My ratty 521


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I will check my box of misc. bits from the previous owner to see if I have the cup washer. For now I got it to work pretty well without it though...


I noticed on my gauge cluster the turn signal plastic light holder has a broken tab. I think I can tape the one end down so it makes contact on the board but I'm curious if anyone would have one for sale either on here or an auto store? I also noticed the bulbs are a type I haven't seen before. I'll have to do some reading tonight to see if you guys have sourced bulbs.



Hainz. I'm still slotting the hold down to allow for more twisting action. lol When you were showing the different distributors in your video, was the motor at TDC then?

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Uh quick question guys; did these trucks have 1 key for locks and ignition? I just sent my ignition cylinder to the locksmith to have a key made and I'm hoping that key fits the doors too....




Seperate keys for door and ignition.


Nice lil project

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Well school starts tomorrow... which worries me, never taken summer classes before.


I can feel victory within reach. Obviously I won't finish today but if I don't have much studying or homework Fri-Sun then I bet I can have it done.



I'm comparing pictures here and it looks like I can get away with 720 door locks in my 521? They're pretty damn cheap.

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Didn't get much time in today but still completed several small tasks. Mounted the remote reservoir for the clutch, installed fuse box, organized wiring harness so I can tape it, installed oil gauge tubing, fixed gauge light holder things.





I should have waited to install the oil gauge tube. I wanted to pump oil into the passage so I can prime the pump again. I packed the pump with grease but I still like to fill the oil passage... I'm also curious about the fittings for the tube. It's one of those crush fittings but I'm worried to wrench it down more... I don't want to strip it obviously. I'll see if it drips or pukes oil when I start it up.


Finally, to fix the broken light holders I used a soldering iron and "plastic welded" the tiny piece back on. I first saw it on HybridZ and then I did it on my Honda when the handle broke. It works surprisingly well. I made the mistake of tossing the plastic tab that broke off but then I noticed 2 more lights had the same problem. I guess the previous owner twisted them down too hard. So I figured, I'm not going to use the ignition light, so that one became spare parts.


You'll need some tweezers, dykes, soldering iron, and patience.



If you didn't save your broken off tab then find another light holder to pull from. If you don't have anymore then I guess you're fucked, I don't know what to say. Carefully snip one tab off. This one was already broken so I snipped the good tab off the other side. If you have a little bit of extra on there and you're worried about it not fitting properly don't freak out. You'll use that as your filler when you apply heat.



Apply heat with short touches. Don't hold the heat too long. Like welding, if you can tack the piece in one spot then it will free up your other hand so you can get the other areas. If you need more filler plastic then get a tie wrap. I found that the Datsun plastic is pretty good stuff. I only tacked the tab in two spots and it was very sturdy and hard. When I did my Honda, the plastic was still kind of soft when cool.



I was pretty happy with the results. I didn't need that ignition light on all the time since I wasn't going to use it. I managed to fix all the others, and leave the ignition spot lightless.

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hapa has light holders 6501 is the part number if I remeber right.


find a better oil line! that one looks tacky. hope it isnt the made in taiwan ones as they crack when they reach to many heat cycles. I KNOW.

plus pu it 90 deg so the line faces the firewall then route it back.

AutoMeter makes better plastic lines.'also hopefully you used a 1/8 BSP thread in the block. The 18 Npt is close but WRONG!!!!!!!thats whats in most standard kit nowadays. the Japs used a Bristish Standard Pipe thread.Autometer has this also or in the bin section in a good parts store in the fitting section


i use the 1/8 bsp to 1/8 npt

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I was worrying about the plastic line too... That's why I'm routing it over to the drivers side so the majority of the line is under the hood. The T fitting I have fits the block, and the oil pressure switch fits the T. I drilled and tapped the other end so the gauge would fit. I just don't want to strip shit out.


I will definitely check out Autometer in the future because this is a cheap Chinese gauge, or I will switch to a spare Z gauge. I didn't like using the Z gauge on first start up because they're so slow to respond.

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the 1/8 npt is close where you think it will fit into the datsun/nissan block. But if it still leaks dont over tighten it. Most people will tighten then it breaks in the block.


yes the smaller line dont respond as quick but these gauges are more for indication use only. Is fast enough if you go around a corner and the oil pressure drops you know your low on oil.


I have a bigger line on my 510 and its instantanoius on the response.


As the oil warms up it gets slightly faster.

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The T fitting came from a TR3 so it's BSP threads... I'm glad you pointed that out though. I was wondering aimlessly trying to figure out what the threads in the block were. I ran out of taps to try, so I just pulled out the fitting bucket and found what I have now...


Is the Autometer type gauge one where the oil goes into the gauge? I know they make things like fuel pressure gauges where the fuel doesn't go into the tube for those who are in race sanctions that don't allow fuel in the cockpit. Curious if they had that for oil gauges too but then again like I said, I have a spare electric Z gauge sitting around. If my gauge cluster is screwed up in the truck I may just use Z gauges for everything.


Oh yah and just to make sure. My clutch reservoir hose, I had to add a loop because the hose would kink if it was a straight shot. Couldn't find any other place in the engine bay to mount it, where the reservoir would be above the clutch level. That brings me to my question; I intensionally made the loop small enough to where at it's highest point, it is still lower than the reservoir fluid level. Fluid will still flow normally into the clutch master, correct?


And yah, thats a juice bottle cap on the reservoir, so what?

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Yes the mechanical guages the oil goes to the gauge.


the Clutch master I dont know why you didnt buy a new clutch master as they still make them and are still cheap(taiwan most of them i seen).


I guess your should work work fine, just hope it dont leak as you know its eats up the paint.Just make sur ethe brib of the hood dont hit the resivior.your motor does look good.

would get new heater hoses also and rad hoses. still avail!

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I used it because it's from a Triumph TR3, it's free! My dad had them in stock and no one comes in needing a TR3 master. A TR3 has one big reservoir and there are metal brake lines that go from there to the brake and clutch master, so you can't use a top mount reservoir. Used the other reservoir in the Wilwood kit. Already check hood clearance, it's good to go.

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Well. Tomorrow should be first start. If not then definitely first thing next weekend. Finished the wiring for the entire car. Just trying to verify all the grounds. I was curious about the routing of the ground for the headlamps. It shows they share ground through the front side markers but that's an awful tiny wire to ground headlamps through. My harness has a single heavy gauge wire connecting the lamps, and spliced in is a small gauge wire that hooks to the bullet connector on the side markers which presumably ground through their body.


I guess if it worked before, it will work now! All 4 side markers were heavily corroded with the lights stuck in them. I assume that lights were the push and twist, or twist, or just pull out type. Whatever it was they weren't going anywhere. Lucky my hoard of Z parts came in handy and the holes fit relatively close with Z side markers on the truck.

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Bah wait a second I forgot about the fog lights. That must be where a giant ground wire is... I'll run a nice heavy gauge ground just in case.


I was thinking it was doing this which doesn't seem right unless the headlamp is grounded through it's body... but its glass:



With fog lamps though:



And no worries, I packed the pump with grease plus I like to get a hand pump and pump oil in through the pressure sensor hole, kinda sorta in the direction of the pump so I can fill it up that way too.



Eh never mind, won't be until next week. My soldering iron took a random shit right in the middle of my work. I ran an extra heavy gauge ground to the radiator mounting bolt.




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Pretty sure I'm going to need a another wiper motor soon... Rats shewed through my wires so I took it apart. Took the shaft with the copper spun around it, out. Soldered longer wires onto it. The little thing that the brushes are mounted onto, it's like a plate, is horribly designed. Basically a plate that mounts to the motor housing through two thin pieces. It's shitty quality because it's made out of really brittle, almost like computer board material. Obviously it broke at the two thin mounting points... tried my best to melt plastic over it like I showed before.


The tricky bit is to then get the wound coil/ helical shaft back into the hole. The brushes are spring loaded and there are 3 of them, so you have to hold them back. As you can imagine, some popped out and while sliding the shaft in it broke the brittle mounting plate again. Finally I got it, soldered all the other wires. Just taped them up and I think I just heard the plate break again. Guess what? I'm not taking it apart to do it over. :rolleyes:


I am however curious about the continuity. I have continuity between every wire, except for ground. Is this right? The schematic shows no specific connection but then again, 3 wires go to brushes, which presumably all contact the same copper.





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Good news. I have oil pressure. At least 20 pounds when cranking, no leaks... yet.

Bad news, I have no spark. I took the plug out, no spark at plug. I pulled the wire off of the dizzy cap that hooks to the coil, which should spark 4 times as much. No spark. So I think it's my hobbled "Hot Spark" bullshit pertronix unit.

Someone with a pertronix, how much of an airgap do you guys have between the magnet and the pickup? I have a big gap... Going to try to get it closer.

That's exactly what it was! I took one screw out and used the other to pivot the pickup. Got it close and plenty of spark! Had my sister crank it while I twisted the dizzy but surprisingly didn't need any adjustment! Fired right up, no coughing or stumbling, started like.... well like a regular car!
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Yah not everything is hooked up. The rubber hose is for the vacuum advance. I have a T fitting with a PCV valve to connect the valve cover and crank case. It will go to the air filter, not the manifold. I'll do the same thing I did on the Z and leave the fuel vent open. I never had crazy fumes or anything when I did that.

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