valve clearance

[jon521]

Bitch you try .006 and .008 yet?If yes ,then try thicker oil and just live with it

 

 

not cold yet no. i will soon though. i just put some 20 w50 in it yesterday. well as long as some noise is normal then its fine. i just thought it was a bad thing.

 

laecaon:

definetly should have done that. haha.

[Sealik]

Should have gone to Napa Jon. I just picked up 5qts and a napa gold filter for $20.40 , yea I know $1.40 more than autozone. And yes it was Castrol GTX.

 

 

:blink: ....more than double the price here....about 45 bucks...........crazy

[sebpv]

Hey guys, I searched on the web about loose adjustment/screw nuts and cant find anything related to an old Datsun. My problem is that even when my valve lash is set, and the screw and adjustment nuts are tightened against each other, I can still move them easily with my finger...Am I lacking wacking juice or is it that possibly the stud is worn? Can I simply put threadlock on it or is it gonna ruin my futur maintenance? I appreciate your help! Thanks

[ggzilla]

The locknut needs to be tightened to the rocker/follower. If you only tighten against the stud, it will always get loose.

 

What engine are you working with?

[sebpv]

Im working with a '73 L16 on my 620... Btw is the follower the same as the rocker...? Im searching schematics but they never mention follower...

And I dont see how I gotta tighten against the rocker, that would never set my cleareance right?...unless you had another setup in mind...

If Im mistaken, I can only see my wrench being a problem as it lifts the rocker everytime I tighten( I dont leave it there for feeler gauge)

[sebpv]

the concept is comparable to two nuts on a stud. Normally if we tighten the nuts together, they shouldnt move...for this reason I think the stud threads are getting worn out but is that possible...?

[ggzilla]

Some engines use adjustable followers. Other engines use adjustable rockers.

[ggzilla]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=tk1sO4aC6uI

 

[sebpv]

Yup, watched the video a couple times. It does not explain what to do in my situation :(

[ggzilla]

L16, like many OHC engines, uses followers. They don't rock back and forth, instead they follow the cam lobe, but for some reason Nissan still calls them rockers. One end of the follower sits on (and pivots on) an adjustable pivot-screw.

 

Basically:

1. loosen the locknut (counter-clockwise)

2. turn the adjuster pivot-screw until the tappet clearance is right

3. tighten the locknut (clockwise) while holding screw in place

The locknut tightens against the head.

 

If that's the method you've been using, the adjuster screw may be stripped out. See if you can loosen the locknut all the way (super loose). If it won't loosen, and it won't tighten, then it is stripped out. Replace it.

13234-21000 VALVE AJUSTER PIVOT SCREW

13235-U0100 LOCK NUT FOR PIVOT SCREW

$5 from Nissan: http://www.courtesyparts.com/pivot-rock-p-249908.html

[D.D.Anderson]

I did adjust the valves after my service manual, but im not really convinced its right...

 

it tells 0.25 as valveclearence, and even hight after TDC, it tells 0 is TDC.

After change to 2x DCOE i can hear the the rockers, valves or whatever sizzling snake sound working, but i guess its normal?

When stock it was more quiet.

 

What would you recommend as specification? if you where to do it from the start?

[sebpv]

All is good :) Thank you very much ggzilla for the info. I was confused until I inspected the Car Parts Manual website and noticed how the adjusting "nut" is indeed a screw so I was just tightening for nothing against the top...

Well Im glad I wont have to spend $$ and time on this one...

 

Thanks again!!!

[ggzilla]

DD, that is 0.25 millimeter - or 0.010 inch.

 

L16 intake valve will be noisy at that clearance.

 

COLD

Intake......... 0.008"

Exhaust......0.010"

 

 

You should not be able to hear the valves when correctly adjusted. However, if they were run loose for years they become slightly damaged and will never be quiet.

 

To ensure the clearance is correct, try the next largest size feeler gauge. If it will go in then it is not adjusted correctly..

 

I did adjust the valves after my service manual, but im not really convinced its right...

 

it tells 0.25 as valveclearence, and even hight after TDC, it tells 0 is TDC.

After change to 2x DCOE i can hear the the rockers, valves or whatever sizzling snake sound working, but i guess its normal?

When stock it was more quiet.

 

What would you recommend as specification? if you where to do it from the start?

[D.D.Anderson]

DD, that is 0.25 millimeter - or 0.010 inch.

 

L16 intake valve will be noisy at that clearance.

 

COLD

Intake......... 0.008"

Exhaust......0.010"

 

 

You should not be able to hear the valves when correctly adjusted. However, if they were run loose for years they become slightly damaged and will never be quiet.

 

To ensure the clearance is correct, try the next largest size feeler gauge. If it will go in then it is not adjusted correctly..

 

Following the factory booklet it tells 0.25 on all of them. and you say 0.08 on intake and 0.010 on exhaust is the best on A14? 

Im a bit confused also because on datsun1200 it tells the "5" is the TDC point, but i was sure that "0" was TDC...

[ggzilla]

We have been discussing L16 engine here.

[henry]

On 6/30/2011 at 12:29 PM, datzenmike said:

COLD

Intake......... 0.008"

Exhaust......0.010"

 

HOT (warm motor thoroughly)

Intake.......... 0.010"

Exhaust...... 0.012"

 

Set to TDC compression or exhaust and do half of them, turn motor ONE full turn and do the rest. Done before they get cold.

 

 

 

'71, 510 - 1.6L - SW

Hello everyone,

    I want to adjust the valves. I know that there are different ways to do it.

I'm wondering if this way would work out:

   Starting from the front of the engine; no.1 cylinder - exhaust valve - turn crank pulley & put the lifter straight up. Adjust valve.

                                                                                           intake valve -turn crank pulley & put the lifter straight up. Adjust valve

   Do the same for cylinders 2 - 3 - & 4. ( ..always with the lifters straight up ) 

  Because I'm seeing that in some Datsun manuals that the lifter part of the cam lobe is not always straight up. I hope I'm being clear.

      Thanks for your opinions,

         Henry

     

     

    

    

[datzenmike]

As long as the cam lobe is off the rocker arm you can set the lash. Your way works but involves a lot of turning the engine. Below is another way where the turning is minimum and more time spent setting the lash.

 

Thoroughly warm the engine at least 20 min.

Find the crankshaft pulley mark for TDC and set to zero on the timing pointer. If you know how to set TDC on the compression stroke do so.

Take valve cover off.

 

IF the number 1 cylinder cam lobes are pointing downward at 4 and 8 o'clock turn the crank pulley ONE turn and set again to TDC. #1 cam lobes should now be at roughly 10 and 2 o'clock.

IF the number 1 cylinder cam lobes are already at 10 and 2, you are ready to set the following valves....

 

#1 set intake and exhaust

#2 set the intake

#3 set the exhaust

 

Turn engine ONE complete turn and back up to TDC. Set the following valves...

 

#2 set the exhaust

#3 set the intake

#4 set intake and exhaust

 

Done this way at most, all you need do is turn the engine twice. If you know how to set the #1 cylinder to TDC compression stroke then only once and the valves are set so fast the engine never cools off.

[henry]

Thanks Mike; I will try it your way instead ( Yes, a lot less turning of the crank ). I do know how to set the #1 cylinder to TDC compression stroke. Although I don't have the luxury of running the engine for 20 min.

  ( neighbors ). I'll have to do a cold adjustment. I'm having a hard time separating the adjusting nut from the lock nut on the # 1 cylinder intake valve. They seem really stuck together. Not a lot of room to maneuver two wrenches.

Henry

   

[banzai510(hainz)]

key is finding a set of wrenches that fit in there best. thinner the better when they close together.

 

be honest I do mine cold at .006 and .008 so I can get a extra lift out of them and keep them quiet..

 

 

one can just pull the plug at the center distrutor or to the + coil and hit the key to turn the motor and the one up the most just adajust it ,write it down then move to the next one you see up(cam lobe) 9 to the 3 oclock is fine if off the lobe. 10-2 is better 12oclock is for the beginners as its ezer to explain.

 

remember this if one day you loose a cylinder. running on 3. alwasy ck the valve lash as a lash cap can fall out or over time you wont be able to adjust the valve usually on the exhaust valve as the valve seat as sucken over time and you cant get the gap on the rocker arm.  One can cheat and that the post with the round knob and make it slightly shorter to it screws down more. But really means you need new seats and the newer unleaded variety ones they install from the later L20b motors(Unleaded gas)

Edited March 19, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

Cold is fine but assumes the metal will expand predictably to the correct amount when hot. Set in near freezing weather will be different than in the middle of the summer. Good enough surely to get it going and can be checked later when it's possible to warm the engine properly.

 

 Get an old spanner and grind it down thinner. As time and mileage add up the valve tends to sink up into the head and the pivot ball has to be set lower and lower to obtain the correct lash. The adjustment and lock nuts get closer and closer together till they run out of room.

 

If you own your Datsun long enough you may run into this problem. Below I removed the rocker pivot and shortened the bottom several threads so it can be set lower.

 

Then belt sanded the thick lock nut thinner to allow the adjustment rocker pivot to move downwards to get the proper lash. Bottom is the regular lock nut and above it the thinned down one.

 

 

[henry]

Hey everyone -   Thanks you for all the help on the valve adjustment. It was satisfying to not hear any ticking when the job was done & the car drives better too. The exhaust on # 4 was really off.  Also I was not able to separate the lock nut from the adjusting nut on the # 1 cylinder intake valve. I ended up just tighten the lock nut & the   lash went   to speck. So I left it alone for now.   Mike, the order of the adjustment makes a lot more sense now.  Well onto the next project.  Door locks & weather stripping...

       Anyone know of reasonable prices for those things?

        Thank you,    Henry

    1971, 510 SW