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New User - 1973 620


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Hello, long time lurker, first time user....

 

I live in Pennsylvania and drive a 1973 620. The truck was purchased in Los Angeles; rust free, but a true Ratsun by any other measure. For one year, the 620 performed faithfully as a daily driver, but an over loaded, 3000 mile, 4000 rpm trek was just too much to ask, and the old truck came East on a U haul trailer.

 

Once here, the truck sat while life got in the way. I bought a rusted out 1974 parts truck for $100 from the original owner and swapped over many parts. Many times I thought of getting rid of the truck, but I tried to remember the 510 I had 20 years ago and wish I still had....

 

Today the truck is on the road again, but like all old vehicles it still needs work. I have some parts I need, and lots of parts to give/trade/sell, I also have some other technical questions; I will attempt to get them posted in the correct areas.

 

Glad to be part of the Forum!

 

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Wow! Thanks for all the love!

 

I do need a rear brake adjuster clip, in my manual it shows a spring, shim and clip; I guess i really need all three 'cause there is nothing there. These parts affix the brake adjuster to the backing plate. Does anyone know if these parts are available anywhere? My parts truck is long gone...

 

Speaking of which, what is underfoot is a load of parts from said parts truck - some I might keep as spares (meaning I want $ for them), but most I would just like to go to a Datsun in need, I will post in the for sale section soon. I have: L16 short block, 73 4spd trans, driveshaft, doors with glass, windshield, radiator, heater core and blower, headlamps, gauges, ignition switch and cover, turn signal switch, twin point distributor, wiper arms, taillights (busted lenses) and sidelights(busted lenses), original Datsun/Clarion Am/Fm radio, small interior parts - package tray, window cranks, sun visor, etc.

 

I am running a Weber 32/36 DGV (manual choke) that I bought new from Redline and had on the L16. Now the carb is on the L18 and I can not get the idle to go below 1100 rpm or so. The timing is set correctly, the throttle and choke cables are free, no air leaks around carb or manifold, I can stall the truck out with the air bleed, the throttle stop is backed completely out, yet the idle will not go lower. Otherwise the truck runs good. Do I need a smaller idle jet? Or am I overlooking something?

 

When I put in the 74 L18, I also used the 74 transmission. The later gearbox is longer than the 73's, the swap entailed the driveshaft (shorter) and shifter plate on cab floor (shifter moved rearward). The speedometer cable fits, but is at an awkward angle and I expect it to break soon, and I recall doing something to make the slave cylinder work, but without looking at it I don't know what it was. The truck seems geared even lower now, although I admit to not driving it so maybe I forgot... but first gear ends about 15mph. Is there a difference in the gearing between these transmissions? Is there a taller rear end gear I can swap in? Would a five speed be a better option?

 

Thanks for your input!

 

(That's what she said)

 

P.S. - Rims are American Racing, 14x6.5", 195/70R14 (Hindsight shoulda gone 205/60R14).

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Welcome! The transmissions up to 09/73 were the F4W63L(4SPD), from 10/73 they were the F4W71B(4SPD), that continued for the remainder of the production run. They were different ratios. The ratio on the rear was 4.375 for both with the exception of the 4.111 which became available 07/78.

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Noob Question here :D , (please dont fire at me) how can i tell the difference between weber 32/36 DGV, DGEV, and DGAV? i have an L16 stock with one but i don't know which one i have

:huh:

Thanks, Erick

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Mirror is a Talbot replica I bought off eBay, I think it was $20. Keep an eye out for the real ones, they're worth hundreds.

 

Erick, my carb is stamped on the base of the body on the driver's side, right above the intake manifold. I don't know for sure, but I think DGV is manual choke, DGEV has electric choke, DGAV has water choke.

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