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720 4x4 lift options


Lockleaf

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I have been looking around on the net and it seems that there really isn't much in the way of options. I'm not looking for much, maybe two inches of suspension lift tops. What have you guys done, purchased, fabricated, etc? Ideas, thoughts, attempts, lets see em.

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This was covered once or twice :lol:

 

4x4parts.com mix and match your parts from there and other places to get your desired lift.

 

Best bet if you have some skills, dana solid axle swap off a jeep wagoneer...

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i have a very simple cheap and easy option... as well as more effective than a body lift (body lifts are ugly and not worth the time installing)

 

for examples sake we will just stay with a two inch lift...

 

rear: in the rear it is very easy to lengthen your shackles... lets say stock shackles are 3 inches from center of bolt to center of bolt. to acquire a two inch lift you will have to lengthen the shackles by four inches, making them 7 inches from hole to hole... anytime you lengthen the shackle, be sure to make them from new steel (dont just add to your stock ones). use at least 3/16" thick steel. and use a piece of square tube in the middle to rigidify them...

 

using seven inch long shacles is fine, but if your worried about sway in hard cornering, you should a little...

 

to achieve more lift without lengthening your shackles too much (i suggest you lengthen them some, it will increase suspension flex) you can do a spring over the axle wich will easily give you three inches of lift right there... to do this, cut the spring perches off the bottom of the axle. take center bolt out of your spring pack and reinstall the opposite way. weld new perches on top of the axle. when welding them on, set the truck down on the perches on the axle, take measurement from tranny crossmember back to axle to be sure your axle is square to the fram, then measure from frame above axle to wheel mounting surface, use a straight edge on your wheel mounting surface to measure to, so that your tape measure is horizontal... when you have everything lined up loosely install u-bolts (put nuts on u-bolts just snug) then check pinion angle... for correct pinion angle the driveline has to be at the same angle at the axle pinion as it is at the transfer case output flang... this needs to be measured with the weight of the vehicle on the axle, to simulate actual driving...

if you transfer case output is level/ plumb then make your axle pinion flange plumb...

 

if you do flip the spting perches on the rear, now you can just add lifting blocks to achieve more lift (keep in mind your pinion angle, and the more you lift the more u-joint angle there is causing them to wera out faster)

 

Front: if you stay with torsion bars, then you can just turn the torsion bars up, if you run out of adjustment, just reindex the bars.

 

more involved, but way better would be doing a straight axle conversion...

 

first, find a pre 84' toyota front axle, or any axle you want. just keep in mind lug pattern, axle width, aftermarket support.

get some leaf springs from the junk yard, either from the same toyota as the axle, or from something similar in weight and size as your truck.

a lot of toyota people use the rear springs from a 1/2 ton chevy for more flex.

buy leaf spring mounts that mount to the frame and weld them to your frame.

to figure out where. put the axle with leaf springs installed under your rig and center the hub to your fender arch, then set the frame down so it just barely sits on the springs bolt the spring mount you bought to the front of the spring, weld to frame, make sure your axle is square to the frame first!...

for the rear of the spring, you will weld the shackle mounts to the frame about 1" to 2" back from where the end of the spring is. for longer shackles you will want them 2" back from spring end. if your springs are very flexible and your shackles are long (expecting much droop) then weld the mount even farther back...

 

you dont want your shackle to flip the other way when wheeling (wont brake anything if it happens, just binds the spring and messes up geometry) kindof a pita to flip back.

the shackle should angle forward as it goes from frame to spring so this direction / .... not this direction \

 

if you want to hear about four link, and five link setups i will write up if requested

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I am also looking for some suspension lift options.

I found one on 4x4parts but its spec'ed for 1983-86 and i have an 82'.

I see that i could fabricate something but is there any other aftermarket parts?

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Swap 2wd springs in the back.

 

The arch on a 4x4 spring is 3.685" while the 2wd is 6.34". Screw shackles, because they are hinged at the front, a 4" increase in the back only lifts about 2" at the axle.

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the leaf arch on a 2wd is double that of the 4wd??? i've got 6 2wd's in the jy here i could easily snag, and my leafs are straight and sitting on the overload spring with nothing in the bed. think 2wd springs are stronger?

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The 4x4 springs are stiffer, but flatter. A 620 spring is weaker but more arched... should lift it a couple of inches. Chester put 4x4 springs on a 620 to lower so it should work the other way. No guarantees. :P

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Lifting the rear is easy for any of us. What is needed is a way to lift without the stiff cranking of the torsion bars in the front that we can afford. But then without axle swap in the front your gear options are none so what is the use in to much lift? Or am i missing a way to get lower gears in the front diff so you can turn the bigger tires?

 

The only reason i made shackles is because mine were in such bad shape from a previous owner.

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