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521 Power Windows


Madmax

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HAD A SPARE DOOR SO DECIDED TO DO A BENCH FAB. IN CASE THINGS GOT HARRY!!!

 

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THE KIT STRESSES A WINDOW CENTERLINE, SO GREEN TAPE WAS WHAT I WENT BY...

 

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CUTTING WAS ACTUALLY A MINIMUM...USED HARBOR FREIGHT AIR SAW, $9 WITH COUPON

CUT MIDDLE SUPPORT OUT..

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AND JUST NOTCH 1" DOWN FOR BRACKETS TO SIT

 

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REPLACE SUPPORT, AND BOTTOM BRACKET LINES UP PERFECTLY WITH EXISTING HOLE IN DOOR...

 

I NEED TO GET SPECIFIC KIT INFO AND MORE DETAILS TO COME!!!

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Now you need to add this. Gives the stock look, not the stupid door panel plugs. I had these before and plan on using them again for my truck. There awesome. Basically push down on the handle about a 1/4" and down goes the window. Pull up and up she goes.

 

http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=EWS-S&refid=5647

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Now you need to add this. Gives the stock look, not the stupid door panel plugs. I had these before and plan on using them again for my truck. There awesome. Basically push down on the handle about a 1/4" and down goes the window. Pull up and up she goes.

 

 

i like the stock window crank look, wasnt sure i wanted to spend $100 on some switches, but doesnt look like many cheaper options...

 

thanks for the compliments, and yea the motorcycle lift is an awesome work bench!!!

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A very common way to control electric window motors in cars is to use two relays.

One relay is the "up" relay, and the other relay is the "down" relay.

The two wires from the electric motor are hooked to pin 30 on each relay. Pin 87, and pin 85 are grounded on both relays. Pin 87A gets fused power, on both relays.

Applying power to pin 86 of the up relay makes the window go up, and applying power to pin 86 on the down relay makes the window go down.

The power going to pin 86 is way less than an amp, and just about any switch can handle it, and you can have more than one switch location. Driver could have an extra switch, to move the passenger window.

 

The circuit works like this. The electric window motor normally has both sides grounded by the relays. When you apply power to either relay, the relay moves the window motor ground connection on that relay from ground to power, and the other side of the window stays grounded, and the window motor moves.

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THIS IS EXACTLY HOW I DID IT, BUT I JUST USED A MOMENTARY SWITCH FOR TEMPORARY, TORN BETWEEN THE OEM STYLE WINDOW CRANK, THE BILLET PUSH BUTTON, AND THE COSTS!!!

THIS IS "RATSUN" AFTER ALL...

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The silver cross bar is suppost to be mounted, but it sits in there so perfectly i have been able to get away without fastening them for now...

i also changed the hardware from there Hex Head bolt to a Flat headed philips screw(Black)so a door panel sits flush!!

 

yea, $99 per side for an up/down SWITCH is not in my budget...

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Found the receipt...www.A1Electric.com from Torrance Ca. 571-437-4975 its the Kit EL2000-K Flat Glass power window conversion kit with glass clamp by Electric Life $199.95 UPS 3 Day shipping $50.92...Total was $250.87

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Found the receipt...www.A1Electric.com from Torrance Ca. 571-437-4975 its the Kit EL2000-K Flat Glass power window conversion kit with glass clamp by Electric Life $199.95 UPS 3 Day shipping $50.92...Total was $250.87

 

Is that for 1 kit/window?

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Did you ever finish your power window install? It looks like you removed your vents and went one-piece windows. Could you post some pics of how this turned out? Was it hard to remove the vents and open up the door channel for one-piece? I wonder if anyone has done this in a 320.

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I finished the install months ago, i want to have truck painted so never installed window channel fuzzys which i think will slow window motor down slightly....never fastened the horizontal bar completly...but everything seems to work!!!...and I Love it!!!...so nice to push a button to make windows go up and down!!!

 

i DID keep vent windows, one piece GLASS would be cool thou..

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