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Wheel wobble?!

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Hello, my wheel hubs are wobbling really badly, every rotation of the tire it will bump the strut slightly. (about 10mm of play.)

At first I thought it was the wheel bearings, and I replaced those but it still does it. Is there any fix for this? Maybe I'm installing the hubs wrong?


The struts are 280zx shortened coilovers, with stock 510 brakes/9" rotors. I'm not sure if its a ZX or 510 hub.


Thanks ..

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zx struts with 510 brakes? why?


I bought it with that setup. Also he gave me a set of 13" Enkies, so I'm guessing he wanted to run those.

Maybe they are 510 struts... I don't know. All I know is they are shortened datsun struts with coilovers for mr-2 inserts ..



Now, I really want to get this damn thing running.

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When I first put my Panasports on my CRX, it wobbled, I thought it was due to poor tightening of my lug nuts so I tightened them more...still wobbled. Turned out it was the center bore on my Panasports were too small diameter, off by just 2mm was what it was. Since the bore was too small it wasn't sitting flush no matter how tight the lug nuts were, I got them profesionally machined and fixed it, now they sit flush and no more wobbling. Not saying this is what is happening to yours but it might be the case...you might want to try a set of wheels that are known to be fine on a 510. You're in Nor Cal so there's LOTS of guys around that can help you out so just look around or just ask if there's anyone near you to come give you a hand. This shouldn't be hard to figure out. Good luck.

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Yeah, the brake pads are the angle ones. Maybe these are 510 struts.


The centerbore of the wheels is bigger than it needs to be and looks like the wheel is sitting flush against the hub.

I put one of the enkei on there and it still wobbles a bit, seems to be the hub that's causing it.

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Properly balanced wheel?



He just said he tried a different wheel. Still the same wobble.



It sounds like the wobble is visible with the wheel up in the air and you spinning it. Is this true?

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He just said he tried a different wheel. Still the same wobble.



It sounds like the wobble is visible with the wheel up in the air and you spinning it. Is this true?


Yes, as I said in my first post I noticed it because the tire bumps the strut every rotation.


Maybe I don't have the hub bolt tight enough, ect. I will fiddle with it more tonight.



Properly balanced wheel?


.. you mean tire? Unsure, the ones with tires are really old, and the enkei I tried has no tire.

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Your wheels could be bent, On my super beetle one was extremely bent but you couldn't tell by looking at it. Also your hub can be too loose, Do some research on how tight it should be. I believe it is something like tight enough to feel it grabbing then a 1/4 back from that. Also if your center bore is too large and you don't have a hub ring spacer and your lug nuts aren't tighted that can make the tire wobble as well.


I would take it to a tire shop and have them spin it on the machine and ask to watch they should let you and see if the tire or wheel is out of round etc etc.

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look close at the tires, I have had old tires grow bubbles, from broken cords, on the sidewall and tread areas. X2 on taking them to a tire shop to be balanced, if the rims are bent they will find out for you quick when the put it on the machine. if the whole assembly is moving then it not tight enough or bearings installed wrong?

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OK I went back and tightened down the hubs, and it seems my wheels are in fact bent! :( I think its from the car sitting on them for so long. The enkie's seem to be OK. I'll probably just pick up a new set of wheels.

Was thinking of some XXR 002's anyway.(hmm 15x8 +0's? :D)



Thanks for the help.

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+12 thru +15 work if you have 280zx struts with 15x7 wheels. closer to Zero on rear might have to roll fenders.


+20 thry +25 on stock 510 struts OK


15x6 +22 Panasports fit EZ or equivilant

listen to banzai he knows whats up he is a suspention :ninja:

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On a PL510 strut/hub, the factory spec for wheel bearing

adjustment is:


Torque the bearing nut to 25 foot/lbs while rotating the wheel,

then back off one quarter turn.


On a larger bearing 610 strut, the spec is 40 foot/lbs and

back off 1/4 turn.


Loosen if necessary to fit the pin (rather than tighten), check

for zero play and minimal rotating resistance. Repeat procedure

if you're not sure. You should end up with zero play.

Background info...manufacturers of tapered roller bearings

discuss tradeoffs of running these bearings at slightly less than

zero clearance. It's common practice. The downside is that the

bearing wears out somewhat faster. You don't want to push

this beyond slightly increased resistance. Most assemblies

(including Datsun hubs) expand axially when they get hot,

so the clearance gets looser under operating conditions.


Another possible cause: I once got the wrong inner bearing

in the correctly marked box of a set of new bearings. It fit

perfectly except for the inner bearing race being about 2mm

larger in diameter than the spindle. The bearing couldn't be

adjusted properly.


Another possible cause: when you install new bearings you

MUST install the outer races that came with the new bearings.

This is mandatory. You have to knock the old races out of

the hub with a punch, and drive the new ones in with the right

size bearing race driver (a common mechanic's tool, not too

expensive). Inexperienced DIY mechanics often don't know

this, including me when I was 18.

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