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Really Ratty Rusty Ruby Ruined & Rotting RIP


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The problem is the tranny, it sticks down to far... Why dry sump doesnt matter.

 

The diff in the rear is raised isn't it? and there is no tranny tunnel/ shaft tunnel right? so the driveline is going to be raised anyways.

 

Sitting in the drivers seat and seeing the L's valve cover protrude above the cowl would be pretty rad.  :devil:

Especially when the engine sits higher than you do. 

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Well, you either do something about it or you pass it along to another Ratsuner who can get it driving again, 

Everyones suggesting ideas, what are yours? Are you going to finally finish it off and scrap her, or are you going to get her on the road again?

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Well, you either do something about it or you pass it along to another Ratsuner who can get it driving again, 

Everyones suggesting ideas, what are yours? Are you going to finally finish it off and scrap her, or are you going to get her on the road again?

 

Eh, Indys not made of money. He has a plan, I like it mostly. But its gonna take a bit.

 

I have a great idea, lets stop bumping the thread so we stop disappointing ourselves.

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but indy said he wanted to maintain a stock hood

No .... I want an L-series sticking a foot out of the hood like caddyhack ... :lol:

 

 

I have a great idea, lets stop bumping the thread so we stop disappointing ourselves.

.... and almost 100,000 views ... :rofl:

 

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That CA-18 seems to fit, I would shave the top of the timing belt cover after its mounted and running. As far as the firewall is concerned, cut what you need to cut, make it fit.

 

If a motorcycle engine is wear you want to go, I think thats a great idea. I would consider mounting it in the backseat area.

 

 

As far as the welds - redo the ones you think arent good enough & wont have access to (leave the rest to finish once you've got it running/rolling). This way if you have someone close-by that helps out, can assist with it. Without sounding like i'm criticizing (because I'm not), I think if you practice with a little higher heat, and wire feed settings, you should be able to get these welds penetrating better. Also what welder and wire size you using? Are you on a big enough outlet, is it popping the circut breaker?, if you tell us what you're using I know we can offer some advice that will get you back on track.

 

Trying to learn and do everything by yourself can be a difficult path. I thought most everything i've seen with the 710 and the suspension engineering on this one has been awesome. You clearly obsess over your work.

 

Btw- I like how your jack gets more low...

 

PS - I want to see these pictures but without the strut tower attached.

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growley in AUS makes timing covers that are really only a bracket to hold the CAS in place. If the timing cover is running too high, make something like that plate and you'll have plenty of additional clearance :)

 

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/wanted/141012-ca18det-cas-bracket-cover-adjustable-cam-pulleys.html

bracket_large.jpg

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I had to sign up to this forum, because I love this thread and want to see this car get done. I think I might have some solutions for you that will keep the hood stock and the car low. The answer is the Triumph Spitfire. Check out this link. http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/project-cars/1974-triumph-spitifre-ro-spit/  Spitfires are narrow, have a front mounted engine, and the car in the link was converted to rotary power, and became a Cobra killer in exceleration not top end. These cars have a full frame that you could adapt to Ruby or use the dimentions to build your own front section and attach the Spitfire Suspension to Ruby. The front suspension is very unobtrusive and was used on many racecars since it's inception. It was way ahead of its time in the early 60's and fully developed. Also the car in the link has all Wilwood brakes and was adapted to full independent instead of swingaxle as per the original. Oh yeah, you can get nonrunning, rust free Spitfires cheap. I got my 70 off ebay for $250 and when I was leaving California passed on one that nobody bid on for $100!!! Lots of these cars don't have titles so they are a hassle for any thing else, so find one of these cheap and CUT IT UP!!! I know the lug pattern isn't right, but you could have some adapters made to the 510 pattern. I love 510's, but finding one in the northern midwest isn't easy. I actually passed on an $800 Ruby clone a year and a half ago, but was into a different project at the time. STUPID!!  Anyway, please don't give up on this car. Your doing some cool $h!t.

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I've been giving this a lot of thought actually, and the lowest profile powerplant is electric. Seriously, I think a full on electric car swap, say 20hp electric motor, batteries, controller whole nine yards. I'm not talking a golf cart motor either. This would be a true roadworthy car. A rusty leaf per se. 

 

Now for range here is where it goes full Ratsun. Diesel-electric hybrid.  Trunk or trailer mounted small diesel genset. Now the nice thing is this can be a later in the stage process, and allow you to get running as a full electric. You can also do the batteries in stages for more range as the funding allows. I believe there are also some nice tax credits available for the conversion.

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