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510 rear wheel bearing part #


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Looks like an inner and outer bearing on each wheel, 4 of them all together. 24210 21000.... $23 dealer price.

 

There is a grease seal beside the inner bearing? 43232 21000 about $5 at dealer.

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I want to replace the rear wheel bearings and seals on my 510 and wonder if anyone knows the parts numbers.

There are better (read:more readily available) versions of these (I just replaced mine in my 610)

Bearings : Industrial Application 6206-2RS. They are double sealed and require no additional lubrication. - You will need four total.

Seals: Timken 224045 - You will need one at each wheel

And don't forget the locknuts...Nissan P/N ONLY 43262-21000 - You will need one at each wheel

 

BTW: Are you swapping to disc? This will be your ONLY time to remove the backing plates humanely, otherwise, you will be removing them by force...

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I don't know guys. Try to get the best ones you can afford . Me and atom were able to get us made for 10 bucks apiece. Find the seal and Nissan only nut. Completely grind off where the nut was flattened. Or youll be stuck trying to find another axle. Carbide bit does the job. I don't like to use the inside seal. I take it off. Then drill a hole for a zerk fitting in the middle of both bearings on the control arm. Makes them greaseable. It's an arguable thing but you grease the front ones then greaseable tierods and ball joints are the way to go.

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I don't know guys. Try to get the best ones you can afford . Me and atom were able to get us made for 10 bucks apiece. Find the seal and Nissan only nut. Completely grind off where the nut was flattened. Or youll be stuck trying to find another axle. Carbide bit does the job. I don't like to use the inside seal. I take it off. Then drill a hole for a zerk fitting in the middle of both bearings on the control arm. Makes them greaseable. It's an arguable thing but you grease the front ones then greaseable tierods and ball joints are the way to go.

 

The lack of seal on inside of bearing was the reason i choose the double sealed bearing style, but this sounds like it might be a viable solution. Philcus did you fill whole hub with grease? Maybe a couple of zerk fitting placement pictures that you guys came up with.....Please.

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I ran with the idea of double sealed bearings. The industrial application ensures that it could be for an automobile or something beefier...either way the bearings are new and can last the life of the car (for me at least)

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  • 1 year later...
There are better (read:more readily available) versions of these (I just replaced mine in my 610)

Bearings : Industrial Application 6206-2RS. They are double sealed and require no additional lubrication. - You will need four total.

Seals: Timken 224045 - You will need one at each wheel

And don't forget the locknuts...Nissan P/N ONLY 43262-21000 - You will need one at each wheel

 

BTW: Are you swapping to disc? This will be your ONLY time to remove the backing plates humanely, otherwise, you will be removing them by force...

Where did you order them from?
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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Going the industrial bearing route, but would like some guidance.  Do we still pack the hub with grease since these are packed and sealed on their own?

 

Simple question I'm sure, but I am trying to sort out the semantics now.  Also, grease recommendations would be lovely too.  I assume it is all the same, but I have been wrong more times than I care to admit.

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my thinking- if it might need to be packed with grease... pack it... I went the double sealed route from NAPA, don't remember the numbers but i could get them for you if needed... as long as I can find the box - 

 

As for grease- go big or go home - I use the mobil 1 stuff. for the tub it might seam expensive, but when you consider how much grease you use on parts- there is a ton of grease in that tub so it accounts to like 5 cents a packing... The mobil 1 hasnt failed me yet. from bikes to cars - bearings to lockers (have an electornic rear diff locker on my truck) seems awesome, highly recomended by many so

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  • 1 year later...

Hi folks,

 

Bringing this thread back rather than start a new one. Hope that is OK.

 

I am assembling the parts for an eventual rear disc brake install and concurrent bearing replacement and purchased some bearings for RockAuto and found there might an issue. They list and inner and outer bearing which are different sizes (see photo). The online Timken catalog says the same thing. These are sealed on one side only.

Now I have seen some folks say that the same one is use for both. Soooo... what is correct? Trying to avoid any surprises or needless delay. Wonder where this discrepancy comes from.

 

Thanks for any help.

 

bearings.jpg

 

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  • 5 years later...
On 7/31/2014 at 2:10 PM, walpal said:

Hi folks,

 

Bringing this thread back rather than start a new one. Hope that is OK.

 

I am assembling the parts for an eventual rear disc brake install and concurrent bearing replacement and purchased some bearings for RockAuto and found there might an issue. They list and inner and outer bearing which are different sizes (see photo). The online Timken catalog says the same thing. These are sealed on one side only.

Now I have seen some folks say that the same one is use for both. Soooo... what is correct? Trying to avoid any surprises or needless delay. Wonder where this discrepancy comes from.

 

Thanks for any help.

 

bearings.jpg

 

 

 

Anyone have an answer to this?  Are both bearings the same size, or are they different like the Timken bearings pictured here?

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I see two bearings for the 510 rear axle.... both marked Nissan part #43210-21000. If there is a part size difference, blame it on RockAuto. I doubt the 510 came with Timken bearings so these are a cross reference to the originals. Maybe someone didn't do their homework.

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Be prepared to have to cut those old nuts out.  Here's what I ended up with:

 

There they are (Thanks Courtesy Nissan for still having these guys) in all their little nutty glory. Man, I love getting parts in the mail. 

 

 7Qb6jwI.jpg

 

Made for a fun day, let me tell ya! Sh!t, those things are on there good. Probably for 44 years. Started with a Dremel cutting wheel (Cause that's all I had) and got one nut down pretty far. Tried a wrench, but no good. So, I got out the chisel and hammer and went to town. Little more cutting and beating got her off. Damn! Started on the second one and the Dremel quite on me. WTF? Oh well, I got another one. Lucky for me, the was a metal cutting tool on it already. Drove down both sides of the nut and to the bottom (since I could reach with this tool now). Once I thought it was good, gave it the same treatment with the hammer and chisel. Bam, the nut split in two and came right off. I'm no expert, but this second method was sure easier, not to mention, the axle shaft threads were left completely un touched. The picture below has the nut with the cutting wheel on the left and the nut with the metal bit on the right. You be the judge?!! The axle is on the bottom:

 

1Uwa5Ci.jpg

 

L2uC5HX.jpg

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