kansascity1 Posted April 3, 2007 Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 I need to change the head gasket in my 70 521(L16), and I need a manual to verify torque specs and tightening pattern. If anybody can scan this section out of there manual I would appreciate it. I was also wondering if you have to change the head bolts like you do on some cars or if you can reuse them. Quote Link to comment
datsun76_620 Posted April 3, 2007 Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 Good luck if you try to reuse them...I had 1 snap on 2 different heads...just not a good idea if you ask me... Take a look here for tqs (not a scan but I trust it!): http://www.the620.com/620tech4.htm#TS2 Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted April 3, 2007 Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 Factory manual says you can re-use them ONCE, but I wouldn't. I've done it, but the engine had less than 80,000 miles on it and was under 20 years old then (1992, on a '73 L16) Quote Link to comment
kansascity1 Posted April 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 After massive amounts of searching, I found a used Haynes manual on Amazon for $5.89 shipped. Should be here friday. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 did you look at http://www.the620.com? You can get the entire factory manual there. http://www.the620.com/data/Service_Manual_Model_L16_&_L18_Series_Engines.pdf Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 Brand new bolts ;) http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=P7600-KIT Quote Link to comment
kansascity1 Posted April 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 I have talked to 4 different Nissan Service departments, and each one have told me the head bolts are reuseable. My manual should be in today or tomorrow, so I guess we'll see what it says. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 The problem with a 30+ year old truck is how many times have they been reused? I bought new ones ;) Quote Link to comment
kansascity1 Posted April 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 So I've got everything apart now, the only problem is I snapped an exhaust manifold stud, and I can't get it out. It is down so short I can't even get vise grips on it. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment
datsun76_620 Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 Can't say I didn't warn you.....but..... You could always try one of those quick outs from craftsman or just the old fashion drill it out. Don't forget to be VERY careful not to hit the threads on the block and make doubly sure that you have EVERY crevice, passage, cylinder/piston taped/covered so you don't get metal shavings all over the place!!!! ....a bunch of times (at the point you are at) I just take my bottom end to the machine shop and start over.... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 Drill and an easy-out...or Drill and a heli-coil... if you don't feel confident doing either, the machine shop is a good idea and they usually don't charge to much for something like that. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 So I've got everything apart now, the only problem is I snapped an exhaust manifold stud, and I can't get it out. It is down so short I can't even get vise grips on it. Any suggestions? If by manifold stud you mean the ones that hold the exhaust down pipe, carefully drill a hole for the easy out and have it ready. Then heat around the broken stud 'till at least red hot with a torch, and quickly twist it out. It will squeal like a pig, but will turn out with hardly any effort. The heat makes the metal expand so the hole actually gets bigger and lessens it's hold on the stud. Quote Link to comment
kansascity1 Posted April 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 Well, I ended up using a 1/4 drill bit and drilling it out. Then I tapped some threads back in it. It's just like it supposed to be. Took forever to drill through it. Damn hardened studs. Quote Link to comment
kansascity1 Posted April 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 Can't say I didn't warn you.....but..... You could always try one of those quick outs from craftsman or just the old fashion drill it out. Don't forget to be VERY careful not to hit the threads on the block and make doubly sure that you have EVERY crevice, passage, cylinder/piston taped/covered so you don't get metal shavings all over the place!!!! ....a bunch of times (at the point you are at) I just take my bottom end to the machine shop and start over.... It was at the bottom end of the manifold, at the exhaust flange. Quote Link to comment
datsun76_620 Posted April 8, 2007 Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 It was at the bottom end of the manifold, at the exhaust flange. Woops...sorry...I guess I've just had miserable luck with my head bolts...no offence intended... VERY glad you got it out!:D Quote Link to comment
kansascity1 Posted April 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 non taken. Truck SHOULD be running tomorrow Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 8, 2007 Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 Hey KC1, When you bolt up your down pipe to your exhaust manifold, use stainless steel nuts, hell if you, can replace the studs too. The heat and road spray chew up the regular ones pretty fast, I use the SS nuts and they work great! They are only a buck each, and you never worry about your socket slipping on a rust eroded nut while taking your pipe off. I first tried this many years ago on my 521, the nuts were so bad that I used a socket 2mm smaller to get them off. The first time I had my 620 pipe off I switched them. Quote Link to comment
kansascity1 Posted April 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 I replaced all three studs, and new stainless nuts. Quote Link to comment
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