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dirtboys' 411 sss


dirtboy411

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I believe that somewhere in San Bernardino you can find a shop with a "Grizzly Grinder" machine. It resurfaces the disc without removing them from the car.

 

my only problem is i cant seem to get my brake caliper cylinder to open "or close in my case" to fit the pads in. i flushed the lines, well front atleast and replaced with new fluid. but im not a mechanic so im not sure what to look for. it rather frustrating in my case not having all the right tools. its not as easy as my other car was lol. damn it. not to sure where the brake fluid i put in is coming from the brake pedal area itself. master cylinder could be leaking. ugghhh. got a service book on its way. ill stay up for days reading it when it gets here.

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my only problem is i cant seem to get my brake caliper cylinder to open "or close in my case" to fit the pads in. i flushed the lines, well front atleast and replaced with new fluid. but im not a mechanic so im not sure what to look for. it rather frustrating in my case not having all the right tools. its not as easy as my other car was lol. damn it. not to sure where the brake fluid i put in is coming from the brake pedal area itself. master cylinder could be leaking. ugghhh. got a service book on its way. ill stay up for days reading it when it gets here.

If there's a wet spot around the seal where the master cylinder rod comes through the firewall that's a sure sign that the master cylinder has blown its seals. If your right foot is being pissed on, that's a sure bet if I ever heard one. See my entry below for rebuild opportunity on your existing unit. I don't know if they are still in the same location but Imperial Datsun near the fair grounds and Inland Center used to have a good service department back in 1970. They might be able to handle the rebuild through the Power Nissan franchise in Hawthorne.

 

Secondary possibility, although unlikely, is that the seal around the top of the brake light switch on the firewall has cracked. You would have to look carefully to spot this but it can spill a substantial amount of brake fluid, being so close to the cylinder outlet port. The switch is cheap and easily replaced.

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If there's a wet spot around the seal where the master cylinder rod comes through the firewall that's a sure sign that the master cylinder has blown its seals. If your right foot is being pissed on, that's a sure bet if I ever heard one. See my entry below for rebuild opportunity on your existing unit. I don't know if they are still in the same location but Imperial Datsun near the fair grounds and Inland Center used to have a good service department back in 1970. They might be able to handle the rebuild through the Power Nissan franchise in Hawthorne.

 

Secondary possibility, although unlikely, is that the seal around the top of the brake light switch on the firewall has cracked. You would have to look carefully to spot this but it can spill a substantial amount of brake fluid, being so close to the cylinder outlet port. The switch is cheap and easily replaced.

 

the switch is actually a likely culprit, ive had them leak straight outta the box on the sandcar stuff ive plumbed. cheap china shit!!!!!

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can you order from beck arnley direct or would i have to order them from somewhere else.

RockAuto.com usually stocks them. Alternate, try a Mom and Pop local shop, they usually bust their asses to make you happy! My local [within a 2 minute drive shop Mars Auto] had so many obscure part for my 411 that they went broke stocking them. I bought all the parts in stock that I could find and still regret the day they went out of business.

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One other "trick" I have found from maintaining my RL411 for the past 44 years is that when it is time to change the front disc pads, first brush the visible portion of the disc boot with an old soft [important - soft] toothbrush before trying to depress the disc pad backing plate. [i use an old surplus US Navy submarine service Phosphor Bronze screwdriver, dosn't scratch the disc or pad backup, obviously no longer available readily].

This gets rid of the accumulated crud and ensures that the boot can fulfill its function of providing the "return" thrust to the pads. The Lockheed system disc brakes depend on the elasticity of the disc boot to return, or at least retract slightly; the pads so that they don't rub on the disc when not being applied, there is no separate "M shaped" spring as in some early Toyota disc brake front end setups to positively retract the pads [replacement pad sets do not have the required locating holes drilled for the springs to their shortcoming, they dont last as long]. Owned both Toyota and Datsun early birds! Prefer the Datsuns, but the M shaped return springs on the Toyota were better! Datsun has better engines but later Toyota's have Japanese built Aisin Warner [uSA designed base on Borg Warner designs] transmissions which in my prejudiced opinion are superior to the Ford based JATCO designs used in later Nissans.

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after doing a well needed cleaning to the front bottom of my car i realized my control arm is off the bracket it sits in on the right side. a lil investigation lead to me finding that the rod connecting the control arm and A arm is bent

e817498a.jpg

and the bracket for the A arm

876f4864.jpg

upon trying to take the bolt out for the U shaped bracket for control arm i snapped the head off :( DAMN RUST.

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after doing a well needed cleaning to the front bottom of my car i realized my control arm is off the bracket it sits in on the right side. a lil investigation lead to me finding that the rod connecting the control arm and A arm is bent

e817498a.jpg

and the bracket for the A arm

876f4864.jpg

upon trying to take the bolt out for the U shaped bracket for control arm i snapped the head off :( DAMN RUST.

 

control arm is actually ur sway bar. i have extra arms, id trade u one of mine for urs plus 20 bucks if u want. i need a set for mock up but the lil bent part doesnt matter lol

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well the control arm/ sway bar looks good. its the bent peice in the pic is my issue. and also the u shapped bracket the holds it to the frame. if i bend both back to form its just gonna weaken more.

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lost!!! and found!!! doing some cleaning of dirt off my crossmember area and found this lil jewel. i dont know what it goes to. it seemed to be chillin hiding out this whole time on top of the crossmember. any clues to my find. it says NEW ERA on it.

9ced0c01.jpg

efabe1c1.jpg

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lost!!! and found!!! doing some cleaning of dirt off my crossmember area and found this lil jewel. i dont know what it goes to. it seemed to be chillin hiding out this whole time on top of the crossmember. any clues to my find. it says NEW ERA on it.

9ced0c01.jpg

efabe1c1.jpg

That is the "condenser" or properly the capacitor that goes from the distributor to ground to protect the points when the voltage to the spark plugs is generated. It has absolutely NOTHING to do with your suspension. The previous owner was a slob and let parts fall where they might.

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cool. lol. yeah i figured it had nothing to do with suspension. but if it is what you say it could be, where would it bolt up to and what wire connects to it. i have a couple misc. wires floating around.

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cool. lol. yeah i figured it had nothing to do with suspension. but if it is what you say it could be, where would it bolt up to and what wire connects to it. i have a couple misc. wires floating around.

It bolts to the side of the distributor and connects to the bakelite feed through at the juncture with the distributor cap.

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