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JZ33's build thread 2.8


JZ33

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So im having issues with my HID install... on one side (driver) I can get the high beam... but no low beam (which is the HID), and on the pass side, I get nothing at all.... everything SEEMS to plugged in properly, but I am no electrician and JUST learned how to install a radio... badly haha Any help would be appreciated!

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Most likely you'll need to run a relay to power up the hid's, I know the factory harness doesn't always provide enough juice to fire them up. Also try flipping the polarity on the ballast connector (plug it in backwards) that's what I did on the 280zx. What kind of HiD set up do you have? H4 or H1 projector type?

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I have H4's and the reverse polarity worked, BUT, I can get the highs on both sides WITHOUT the HIDs on, and when its just low beams (just HID) only my drivers side stays on... they will both blink/flash for a second, then my driver side stays on the other is off.. Does this mean I need the relay? Where would the relay go?

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On the harness side plug (that goes into the bulb) you have 3 terminals, one low beam, one high beam and a ground. Don't remember which one is which (use a test lite to figure out). To run a relay you use the low beam terminal to power up the relay coil. I used a 60 amp automotive relay (bit overkill), easy to find at radioshack or parts store.

 

So terminal 85 on the relay would be your low beam voltage from the harness.

Terminal 86 would go to body ground

 

These power up the coil closing the connection (switch)

Terminal 30 would be battery positive

Terminal 87 would be to the hid low beam.

 

Now you can use one relay for both sides or one for each light, I got better results wirin up one for each light.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So here's your write up.

 

First, remove the headlight from the car, eat a cookie lol

 

Well start here, this is the connector to the bulb. This will connect to the HID harness now instead.

42278B13-FE0A-455A-BF42-1907CFC15D44-28246-0000080ED78E1CBD.jpg

 

You'll need to find the low beam power wire.

Mine happened to be the one on the left (they might also be labeled on the back of the connector, mine were)

E1E4DBCB-1C29-46E2-BF5E-BC52B5100F5A-28246-0000080EE39B1AD8.jpg

 

Got that figured out? Have another cookie and let's move on to getting the relay hooked up.

 

This is you average off the shelf automotive relay, I used 60 amp relays for mine, pretty sure that was overkill, probably good with a 40 amp.

 

So lets look at the relay diagram

55AF3EE1-0F79-4D2D-97BA-908A0B2F56FC-28246-0000080EEC1CA74B.jpg

 

All these squiggles and numbers are in fact the diagram or circuit.

 

The numbers correspond to the pins on the reverse side (and are numbered as such)

 

Lets start off with a quick lesson on how this works. Power gets sent through the relay coil, (the square thing on the left) which energizes the coil closing the switch (on the right) sending power to whatever you have connected to it. It's basically an electric switch.

 

Still here? Chug some milk an lets start some wiring.

 

There's two ways you can do this

1 if you don't want to cut up you factory harness then there are harness extenders available for H4 bulbs.

 

Link: http://www.racinglab.com/kyoplheduwih4.html

This way you can just cut the extender instead for the next step.

 

Or 2 hack up your factory harness if you dgaf or are confident enough.

 

So lets get the coil side wired up first. If you look on the diagram, pins #85 and #86 are for the coil. Now it doesn't matter which one you put where but for the sake of making this easy well make #85 the positive and #86 negative. So what we do now is cut the wire for the low beam on the extender (or harness) in half, make sure you have enough on both ends.

 

Now the side coming out of the actual harness we need to run to the positive on the relay, #85 some butt connectors and female spade connectors are needed. Now that you have the positive hooked up the negative (#86) goes to a good body ground, that means not painted or anything, this has to touch metal.

 

Now if its all hooked up right, when you turn on the headlight switch the relay should click. Nothing hooked up on the other end yet. Well get there in a minute. Now that we got this far take a stretch, cuz I know I'm not used to being bent over for this long either :P

 

Now lets get the other side of the relay wired up. We should have two extra terminals left. #87 and #30 (this is what you are switching with the relay)

 

So again, doesn't matter which one you hook things up to but let's make it easy.

 

#30 terminal on the relay were gonna make battery positive. So run a wire from the battery positive terminal all the way to the relay. This is now your power source for the HID's.

 

Now, remember the other end of the harness? The side that plugs into the HID/Bulb? So put a wire from the #87 terminal to the other end of the wire we cut, this is the side that plugs into the buld, or now the HID harness.

 

When everything is finished it should look like this

B0050577-79B6-4B78-984D-280C0D99FB87-28246-0000080EF1859DFA.jpg

 

Now hook up the HID's and see if they work. You're now getting direct battery voltage instead of running through your old ass ignition harness.

 

I used 12 gauge wire from the battery to the relay and then to the HID's that way you will never overload the wires and have them go up in flames.

 

If you have any questions let me know, and I'll try to answer them the best I can :P

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