vidalia Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Hi I am new here, I just got a 1973 datsun 620, runs great bought for $250 will post pics when a nice day comes around, my question is that the guy I bought it from says he changed the motor from a 1600 with a 5 speed to a 2000 with a 4 speed, the block is stamped with a w58 on passenger side, when I went to napa to buy a rotor and cap and points they matched my rotor up with a 1600, is it possible to interchange distributors between the 1600 and 2000? it is not dual point. thanks for the help also why does everyone change to weber carbs? ok here are pics, also just a little more info it was in a barn for the last 7 years, so we towed it home (there were no brakes) and bled brakes, put new plugs and wires and fuel filter and it runs great. we still need to change oil and filter, and make a trip to pull n save for some less springy seats and little parts and check out the inventory of interchangeable parts Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Search function FTW! Quote Link to comment
Rob W. Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 I'm not sure about your distributor but I think they do interchange. Adding a Weber carb is like you took another truck out of the back of the truck night and day difference. Welcome to the forum. Quote Link to comment
dave71 Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 welcome to the site...there's a flat spot on the side of block just below the head the size is stamped there...send pics :blink: Quote Link to comment
jimmy dale Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 We only have the pics of when we towed it home a few days ago but i will try to show it if she figures out how and tells me lol i am jim and vidalia is my wife lol thanks for helping us out Quote Link to comment
vidalia Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Thanks guess I will look for a weber.....will get pics soon up Quote Link to comment
jimmy dale Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 "> there it is going home Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 The rotors are the same, the caps are not. The W58 is probably on the head, which means at least the head is from a 78-80 L20B. Quote Link to comment
vidalia Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 that makes sense because the old man said he got the 2000 out of a 78. When I bought the rotor for a 2000 it wouldn't work so when I took it back to napa they matched the one I had and said it was a 1600.....thats why I have the confusion....thanks for the insight I will try to get pics of the motor up...... Quote Link to comment
jimmy dale Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 ok looked at the numbers on the block L20b and the head has W58 but the distrubitor must be from a 1600 it is the only cap and roter that works the 2000 distributor is just a hair to big and does not have the notch for the little stud to hold it tight will it make a difference if we get a 2000 dist and replace it? Quote Link to comment
pharouh Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 You bought that for $250 AND it runs? Man,you stole that! Nice! More pics! Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 If it runs good just roll with what you got. You could put in a petronix kit for a more reliable electronic ignition. The weber is a must. You can get a new 32/36 kit from Weber Carbs Direct for $270. Show some pics of the motor. Curious to see if he stayed with the old manis or if he went with the L20 manis. Nice truck & welcome to the forum. START READING :D Quote Link to comment
vidalia Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 yes been reading all morning am finding put all kinds of nifty things. Thanks to all who post helpful how tos and ideas this is awesome! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Looks like the old manifolds, intake for sure. This will allow the L20B to bolt to the stock '73 exhaust system. If it runs without problems roll with it. $270-$300 is a lot for a small performance increase and not so good mileage. If your carb is bad then yes. Webers are over rated because usually the stock carbs are worn out and anything is better. The stock carb is the best all round driving and mileage but they are complex and difficult to rebuild. The weber is very simple, less to go wrong and gives better performance. If you get one, get a direct replacement with electric choke and idle cut solenoid. They work right out of the box and have the manifold adapter and fittings. Beware used E Bay webers as they are well used, likely old ones with worn throttle shafts, manual choke and no idle cut solenoid. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 As datzenmike and other wrote. If it runs the way it is just leave and and clean up the engine bay and get rid of those wires that go nowhere. Get a battery hold down. Bungy cords look tacky, But seems like every Datsun I see has them. They are only 8 dollars but datsun guys will spend a hundred on something useless than a battery hold. As for the distributors a All series series dizzy will fit. if you have a matching dizzy mount. Looks like you have a L20b but I cant tell you you ares till using the l16 dizzy or not. If you still have a ballast resisitor I assume your still using points. Best to update to a electronic ignition when possible but let us help doing this. I seen to many fuckups cause people just grab coils that are the wrong resisitance. olddatsuns.com has alot of infor in the tech section and ck out the "HOW TO" section here on RATSUN. if your truck is running I would just leave it alone. I run many webers and they are great carbs but gas is expensive again and knowing what I know now I would just keep the stock carb till it goes bad,then get a weber 32/36 . get some TR3 paint cleaner/polish and the paint will come right out. Believe me it works. There might be other brands but this one works good that I know of. 1 Quote Link to comment
vidalia Posted March 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 Thanks! yeah its running so not going to change the carb but will look at the info on the electronic ignition, also going to put a 5 speed in later. The bungee is cord is a quick fix have to drive it to college which is 30 miles away so when I go to pull and save will look for a decent battery hold down, have pulled some wires today it runs and all accessories work so the wires that aren't hooked up must not be important. love the old datsuns site going off to read about electronic ignition will post as I get closer to install....any and all advice is appreciated :) Quote Link to comment
Farmer Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Great 620 for 250 Larry Quote Link to comment
vidalia Posted March 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 Ok here's a quick update pretty Impressed after sitting 7 years in a barn I ran the truck for a week so far and it runs awesome quiet and starts right up. Changing oil this weekend I am going to rummage through my hubby's garage and find a radio and an antenna my future plans and will update with pics as i do them is get a matchbox or pertronic distributor and coil higher output alternator fix the minor rust on the hood and floors and bed find better seats (mine are springy) hope to meet ratsun people at meets near me I am around 3 hours from Spokane just as note hubby is impressed with it but he can't fit comfortably he is 6'4 so he is looking for a king cab to play with. Quote Link to comment
dave71 Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 no ones perfect :lol: hope finds one i know of a couple more are up here and ones a short bed Quote Link to comment
jimmy dale Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 Ok new question the stick shifter is real sloppy it hits her knee and mine to shift are the bushings hard to replace and is there something i can do to tighten it up it looks like it is in the end peice where the bottom of the shifter goes on the shaft that goes in and out to shift? Quote Link to comment
pharouh Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 I've had four 73 620s ,and they were all like that. Someone here may have a fix. Quote Link to comment
jimmy dale Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 ok i have a new problem i had to cut the wires to the back of the truck 5 butt connectors in 7 inches is to much lol i had to take the plug out of the back and go straight off the other wires all work //// except when i turn on the lights the blinkers quit working even in the truck could a low battery do this or will i have to start under the hood next lights from out side to inside tail- break 1157dual -tail single - backup ////////// backup- tail single-- break1157 dual light- tail all are single prong bulbs except the 1157 which are hooked together for blinker and break lol going to be fun i can see and info is much apreciated Quote Link to comment
mike Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 http://www.olddatsuns.com//620tech.htm Check here theres wiring diagrams for your truck if you scroll down... easiest to print out and staple together. For the slop in your shifter, either live with it or you can kill two birds with one stone and put a 5 speed in. You can do freeway speeds and youll get better mileage :cool: Quote Link to comment
jimmy dale Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 well thank but i cant understand the diagrams figure i will have to rewire it with the trusty test light just never seen the blinkers quit when the lights come on lol thanks Quote Link to comment
mike Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 If you blow up the image on your computer you can see the key for the color codes on the harness wires... when I print them out I trace the wires Im working on with a colored pencil to keep them straight. I think youve got a wire from your brakes tied into a wire on your blinkers... that will cause the blinkers to cancel and the brakelight to stay on. Check along your frame rails and around your taillights and see if there are any more "repairs" often with taillights, old trailer light wiring is the culprit on these. Is the same light coming on for both the brake lights and blinkers. If so, they should be different bulbs. Also what are your running lights doing? Honestly the best/easiest fix for this would be to go look through the yards for a truck with unhacked wiring and cut it as far forward as you can and tie the wires into your harness and put the "new" stuff in place with the correct wire colors and plugs. It makes troubleshooting and repair a hell of a lot easier when its all close to factory. Quote Link to comment
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