Llittle_Llama Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Ok, I have read a few how to's online, but I have yet to see one with actual pics. When screwing with it today I noticed that my throttle screw doesn't touch the....uh.. wheel thing. I would like it to idle a little lower than it is right now, and I would like the spark plugs to not get black and wet after 5 minutes. These are what I was looking at, but they don't seem exactly right and my fiddlin didn't really do much. http://www.carburetion.com/weber/adjust.htm http://www.racetep.com/webjettune.html Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 http://www.racetep.com/weberadj.html The One I Used... Simple :cool: Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 What's it jetted for? If it's jetted incorrectly, there's no amount of mixture screw adjusting that will make it lean out enough. The 32/36 on my L20b feels like it's jetted for economy; it's pretty gutless. It might just be jetted for an L16 or something, because the plugs look like they run very lean. The only way it goes anywhere is if I mash the pedal and the 2nd barrel opens up. There's an article on the dimequarterly.com in the technical department, engine section that talks about jetting your weber. "Weber Tuning Guide" Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 This is a DGEV....? Electric choke....? Sounds like like the choke is engaged/closed....or the linkage/cable is not adjusted properly...thus the throttle screw is not......"doesn't touch the....wheel thing." Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 W in TF? I think I said leave that shit alone, right? Cummmmon! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 The jetting has little to do with idle. Jetting: mid range and full throttle Idle: Idle mixture screw (plugged air jets and air leaks can affect this). Sure, there is idle "jetting" but it will be close enough for a 1.2 liter all the way to a 2.0 liter to get an adjustment. #6 in this photo of my Weber DGV, if loose or plugged will affect the idle: Yes, the fast idle is closely associated with the choke. So open the choke with your fingers, before deciding there is a problem with the screw adjustment. Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Yeah, the choke is engaged at all times. I wanted to delete the choke all together when I first had it so I unplugged the wire going to it so it just sits there partway open. Now that I'm trying to fix my screw-ups I want to add it back. D I just give it a dedicated key on 12v wire? Yello620, although you like making me look like an idiot believe it or not it doesn't help my problem. I know a year and a half ago I was doing some pretty stupid stuff, but I'm trying to correct these issues now and do things right, so how about you cut me a little slack? Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 also I don't have a throttle cable bracket, I just have it zip tied to the brake booster hose to keep it straight, where can I get that bracket since were fixing all my other issues? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 also I don't have a throttle cable bracket, I just have it zip tied to the brake booster hose to keep it straight, where can I get that bracket since were fixing all my other issues? You need to mount the throttle cable properly and also power up the choke...should be a wire already there, somewhere? 720 is blue...not sure about the 620 Ignition turned on....power to choke Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 There is a factory wire in the harness for electric choke, it works perfect with a Weber. Or you can connect the choke to the Coil + terminal. That's what I did in the past. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 You need to mount the throttle cable properly and also power up the choke...should be a wire already there, somewhere? 720 is blue...not sure about the 620 Ignition turned on....power to choke There is a factory wire in the harness for electric choke, it works perfect with a Weber. Which would work ... if all the wiring behind the dash hadn't been removed because it wasn't needed. :rolleyes: And yes you will need a switched on 12 volt supply to warm the choke heater and turn it off... or just stove pipe wire it full open all the time. 1 Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Yello620, all though I am king of the idiot's believe it or not it doesn't help my problem. Fixed ! 1 Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted March 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Which would work ... if all the wiring behind the dash hadn't been removed because it wasn't needed. :rolleyes: And yes you will need a switched on 12 volt supply to warm the choke heater and turn it off... or just stove pipe wire it full open all the time. Will correct this issue tomorrow morning :) Oce I get it to pass inspection and get it re registered I'll replace the harness, this shit I did before has got to go. WTF was I thinking?!? Quote Link to comment
odmanjohnson Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 I know its probably fixed by now. I was having issues also with my weber too. get a weaber manual from the parts store, take the carb apart first and clean the heck out of it, my emulsion tubes and idle jets were completly gummed up. and no amount of tuning helped. Huge difference just having it clean. Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 No, not fixed yet :( Not tried to either though. I had a garage sale today and I was hella busy earlier this week, this week it's happen.....hopefully ;) Quote Link to comment
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