Wiring and ignition help

[hoopty]

Hey all, I'm in the processes of getting my 72 running again and had a few questions. First i ironed out most of the wiring on the truck, the last issue i have is with the distributor. The leads were missing when i got the truck and i cant find information on this, most wiring diagrams dont include the location of the wires after the plug. I just guessed on the locations.

 

The second issue i have is that when i hook up the battery the ignition resistor seems to be shorted, it gets really hot and starts to smoke a bit. Could my coil or my resistor be bad? My truck does run but not very well, it barely starts and runs pretty sloppy. It miss fires and sounds like crap too. Any input would be appreciated. BTW it is the original L16

[datzenmike]

 

This distributor has dual points one set is advanced and the other retarded 4 degrees. Under certain conditions the retard set are used to reduce emissions.... it also reduces power slightly. Remove the Blue/Yellow wire and tape up the end so it doesn't touch anything and just run the advanced points. Now it will run at the proper advance all the time. You should have the timing checked and adjusted.

 

 

 

 

The dropping or ballast resistor does get hot, too hot to touch. If there is dust, dirt or grease on it, it will smoke. If it is excessively hot the coil may be from an electronic ignition and will draw more current through it and , yes it will get much hotter. Also the extra current will be flowing through the points and can burn them out in as little as 50 miles. Check the coil... it may say "use with ballast resistor" You're OK. If it says "use with electronic ignition" that's bad and it needs to be replaced with the correct one.

 

 

The wiring looks correct.

[hoopty]

This distributor has dual points one set is advanced and the other retarded 4 degrees. Under certain conditions the retard set are used to reduce emissions.... it also reduces power slightly. Remove the Blue/Yellow wire and tape up the end so it doesn't touch anything and just run the advanced points. Now it will run at the proper advance all the time. You should have the timing checked and adjusted.

 

 

 

 

 

The dropping or ballast resistor does get hot, too hot to touch. If there is dust, dirt or grease on it, it will smoke. If it is excessively hot the coil may be from an electronic ignition and will draw more current through it and , yes it will get much hotter. Also the extra current will be flowing through the points and can burn them out in as little as 50 miles. Check the coil... it may say "use with ballast resistor" You're OK. If it says "use with electronic ignition" that's bad and it needs to be replaced with the correct one.

 

 

The wiring looks correct.

 

Thanks Mike. I am going to borrow a timing light this week and check and adjust it. I seem to find many sites that say to run 12 degrees and others that say run 7 degrees, which one should I run?

 

Which post is advanced and which is retarted? Or does it not matter and the blue/yellow wire complete the retarding circuit?

 

Thanks again, I'll get some more info tonight about the coil.

[datzenmike]

The advance set works like any normal car. The retard set opens later by about 4 degrees when activated. There are carb, clutch and tranny switches and a relay that tell it when to retard. You may have them backward, I don't know. I do know if you disconnect the Blue/Yellow wire it will only operate in the proper advance state all the time (once the timing is set)

 

Timing for the L16 is 12 degrees before TDC. Now this works for the majority of motors but you may find that you can run one or two more, or perhaps less, degrees depending on the fuel octane that is available in your area, the temperature, humidity an

ds several other factors. 12 degrees is best to start with.

[hoopty]

it says on the ignition "use with ignitor" is that a ballast resistor or a component for an electric ignition?

[datzenmike]

Yeah, I would say that is the wrong coil in there. It is lower resistance for uise with an EI type distributor and will draw to much current through the points system. So your points won't last and the ballast resistor will be overheated.