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Why 280zx struts?


DottiBlue

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I am going to run the 87 200SX struts. They have a different spindle angle that allow the use of zero offset wheels with no spacers and they don't suck in the wheels like 280ZX struts.

 

Just another option.

 

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Yes, a good choice, and the steering knuckle bolt spacing is the same. However, just so people are aware, the cup on the bottom of the strut is larger in diameter than the boss on the steering knuckle, so you lose the sheer fit. There are a couple guys making spacers that mate the two together, or you can have a fat washer machined to mate them in order to regain the sheer strength of the joint, rather than relying entirely on the two bolts.

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I am going to run the 87 200SX struts. They have a different spindle angle that allow the use of zero offset wheels with no spacers and they don't suck in the wheels like 280ZX struts.

 

You don't need spacers to run zero offset wheels on 280ZX struts. ;)

 

In fact, the 280ZX struts sucking the wheels in is usually the only way for zero offset wheels to even hope to fit inside the fender. I would think that with a zero offset wheel on S12 struts the wheels are going to stick out a lot. Of course, if you have flares, I'm way off... :P

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You don't need spacers to run zero offset wheels on 280ZX struts. ;)

 

In fact, the 280ZX struts sucking the wheels in is usually the only way for zero offset wheels to even hope to fit inside the fender. I would think that with a zero offset wheel on S12 struts the wheels are going to stick out a lot. Of course, if you have flares, I'm way off... :P

 

 

Well, a few of the guys are running ZX strut with zero offset wheels and needed the spacers to clear the strut itself, so, not all wheels will clear and yes, I am running flares. ;)

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Offset has become so popular in discussion that people forget a +0 offset 15x8 rim has the same tire to strut clearance as a +25 offset 15x6.

 

When offset is discussed, we need to state rim width, otherwise its like comparing dyno readings without saying if it was taken at the wheel or the crank.

 

I like to use backspacing when I discuss tire to strut clearance. A 15" wheel with a 4.5" backspacing has plenty of clearance on a 510 strut and with a 195 tire has about 1/8" on a 280ZX.

 

Backspacing is measured from the very inner edge of the rim to the hub mounting face. Roughly it can be calculated by adding 1" to the rim width, dividing that number by 2 and adding the offset (in inches) to that number with the result being the backspacing (negative offsets get subtracted). Or you just measure the distance with a ruler.

 

Calculating back spacing, example using a 15x7 +25 wheel:

 

(7" wheel + 1") = 8"; 8" / 2 = 4.0" (this is the back face to centerline of wheel dimension within 1/8")

+25 offset = 1.0" (the conversion mm to inches is 25.4mm = 1.00")

 

Add 4.0" back face to centerline distance + 1.0" offset = 5.0" backspacing

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100% correct on stopping, sometimes cheap. It's all up to you. Some like Coilover Struts, braided brake lines "a must", Hawk high performace brake pads, Power Stop Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors then it gets expensive. Pare I like the Pinoy Flag! Mabuhay!

 

 

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To me, those look like shortened 510 struts with a set of coilovers installed. Note the thin, solid rotor. Also note it's small diameter. If you notice on the bottom of the strut, it is a small diameter flange where it mounts to the ball joint. ZX, and S12 struts have a slightly larger base, but have the same bolt hole alignment, thus it can be installed on a 510 ball joint.

 

For some extra reference, consider these notes!

 

510 rotors are solid, small diameter. The strut tubes are longer than ZX (there ARE various length stock 510 struts dependent on manufacture date and model of 510).

S12 rotors are vented, larger diameter, but have a very thin design. They are slightly smaller than ZX, and considerably thinner as well. Struts have a larger diameter spring perch, same as ZX struts. The base of the strut tube at the ball joint mounting point is also larger than stock 510 parts, but is 100% compatible with 510 ball joints. Bumpsteer spacers will also work with longer bolts.

ZX rotors are the largest of the three, and also the thickest.

 

From stock 510 specifications, S12 struts will widen the track on the front by 3/4" each side, for a total of 1.5" total track width gain.

From stock 510 specifications, ZX struts will narrow the track on the front by .25" each side, for a total of 0.5" total track width reduction.

 

S12 Struts limit your selection of wheel choices due to the increased track width. Without flared fenders, most (at least in my experience thus far...) lowered 510's will experience clearance issues with the fender lip (even mildly rolled) with a lowered front suspension using Z-car wheels. (Specifically, 15" Swastika wheels.)

 

ZX struts broaden your wheel selection, allowing more room between tire & fender. The exception, is that due to the decreased track width, some wheels may have slight interference with the strut tube and/or spring perch. This usually isn't a problem on coilover equipped 510's, but shortened struts without coilovers using a relocated/adjustable spring perch may have fitment issues.

 

Both the S12 struts, and the ZX struts require spring perch modification to fit properly in a 510 strut tower. This is due to the larger diameter springs used on these models in comparison to 510 springs. I believe the O.D. of a stock 510 coil spring is 5.25" where as S12/ZX coilsprings are 6". I am not 100% certain if that is correct, memory serves.

 

In addition to the information above, there are several benefits of using the struts from a ZX.

Your options for strut cartridge replacements are very good, whereas stock 510 strut inserts don't really have the best availability anymore. ZX/S12 struts use a standard 15" strut insert. These are available almost anywhere.

You also inherit larger wheel bearings with ZX struts, which don't wear out as quickly and support more load than a 510 wheel bearing. In my experience, the parts are cheaper as well - and readily available even at Autozone.

You obviously inherit better braking ability, due to larger, thicker, vented rotors and improvement in caliper design. In addition, you can get pads and rotors pretty much anywhere. Most 510 parts are special order these days.

 

IMHO, ZX's are better simply because the parts are readily available, and are obvious upgrades over stock. For the amount of money required to run an Ermish setup, you can have a very nice ZX front suspension prepped up. I believe the Ermish 510 strut/brake kits are targetting track cars that have restrictions on what they can and cannot have in terms of non-stock modifications. They are a great setup, however. If you can't run a ZX strut due to modification restrictions, the super duper stock 510 setup is what you need, want, and will end up getting. :)

 

Hope this info is useful for somebody :)

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And holy mother of crap, I look up and there are like a bunch of posts that I didn't even see. Apparently, they didn't load when I went to hit the reply button!

 

I see the 710 strut post... didn't think of that. I've never had a look-see at 710 struts before. Learned something new :)

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but, aren't almost all of the spindle angles nearly identical? I was told a long time ago they were nearly identical, and that the only changes were made with offset strut isolators and longer control arms (something about fixing a 710 positive camber issue. Nissan recall?)

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  • 2 months later...

I am located in an area where the dime enthusiasts are almost as scarce as the parts available. I am looking at doing the front end disk brake swap. I intended to get the parts off of a 79-83 280zx. The parts I have in possession are the rotors, calipers, boost pump, and brake pads for a 79-83 280zx; also, the entire strut assembly of a 1978 280zx. Has anyone used the strut assembly off of a '78 280zx?

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Quick way to tell the difference, 280Z = solid rotor, 280ZX = vented rotor.

 

The 280Z doesn't work well in a 510, the spindle to strut tube angle is greater which messes up the camber unless you do other modifications like longer LCA's or cut and move the strut towers inboard.

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I paid $0.00 for my 280zx struts/brakes. some cool dude just gave them to me. I have the exact measurements on my build thread and 510 over 280zx struts pulled in the wheel over 3/4" . I am running 15 x 7 +4 and 195/50 tires and my tires are around 1/2" from hitting the T3 coil over sleeves. I installed my coil over sleeves so I can get my current ride height without the locking ring or the tube clamp from hitting the tire or the rim.

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  • 8 years later...

Kits are usually very pricey. When it's time to replace the 280zx pads and rotors these parts are cheap and readily available.... anywhere. The 280zx strut uses a larger wheel bearing than the 510. If planning to lower the 510 slightly, the zx strut is over an inch shorter than the 510 stock strut right off the bat. 

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.........and calipers are a more conventional single piston style with a slide bracket & larger vented rotors.  Biggest problem these days is last I heard, the ZX calipers were not available these days............rebuilders ran out of cores...........??  I always pull complete strut assemblies WITH the calipers.................at least you have a caliper core to have rebuilt!  I also think you have more brand choices for strut inserts/shocks with the ZX........??  However, full coilover sets are getting a l'il cheaper..........

 

TJ

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Time to get a rebuild kit for my Maxima and my 280zx calipers before they are gone too. I rebuilt the 4 piston Toyota calipers I had on my 620. All you need is cleanliness. Brake cleaner, soapy water, lots of rags and brushes. They are so simple to work on. A rubber piston ring and a dust seal and spring clip to hold it in place for each one. Same for my 15/16" zx master, about $25, and I have done a 620 slave cylinder for $12 Nissan kit. I trust my work over some $0.35 an hour Asian. The Toyota kits were $25 a side.

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  • 2 months later...
On 3/6/2011 at 7:47 PM, DottiBlue said:

Nice, sounds like a must, I am most of the way through a KA24e swap I'm doing on a dime I saved that was roting in Vacaville a couple years back. I have never driven the car, as I bought it with a blown motor and some rear end crash damage. I know, I know. I'm taking along time, two and a half years and counting, but it will be done someday, hopefully sooner than later. Thanks for the help. I think I may have found a set for sale on craigslist, guys might be parting out his 280zx.

 

With ya on that.  Bought a 72 521 truck, never drove it, did a body off resto and finally drove it I think 1 1/2 years later.  Best day ever.  Take your time, do it right and it will all pay off in the end!!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/6/2011 at 9:32 PM, erikcarter said:

I have 810 struts on mine. I got them a long time ago from Dan Hart here in Vancouver, are they the same as the 280zx?

 

Just heard that the 810 strut is longer than the ZX. I don't know if it's a problem, but you may end up bottoming the strut too soon with the longer strut tube. You'll also need to run spacers inside to fit whatever inserts. Unless you happen to stumble over a set of 810s, the ZX is the way to go.

 

There are also a bunch of different hubs that fit various spindles. I've never found a list of all compatible parts and the resulting offsets. I wanted to do this as a resource, but have moved away from the Datsun-rich regions. Maybe others could collaborate on it.

Edited by ByStickel
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