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Interchangeable Parts


Joel

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I'm new to Datsuns, after having been into German cars for a while. In my German travels I found a very helpful site for my old 5-Series which laid out a precise list of parts from other BMWs, and listed whether they were a usable stock replacement or upgrade, and whether it was a direct bolt-on or took some modification/fabrication. Here's a link:

 

http://www.firstfives.org/parts.html

 

I'm sure with the pool of knowledge collectively hanging around here we could organize something similar, right? As I'm new to the Japaneses, I can't be much help with which parts fit which cars, but if people can post what they know I'd be more than happy to organize all the info

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Sounds like you are looking for a parts matrix of sorts...hmmm...I never thought about that.

Us 610 owners are more of the 'I want to upgrade (insert part name here) and what car (or cars as it were) do I get this upgrade from?' A matrix would most certainly alleviate some of those problems.

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I'll update my original post with a list as people post ideas of what might work and/or confirm what definitely does work.

 

 

To get the ball rolling, one example which I haven't been able to confirm is bumpers--I've read that smaller 510 bumpers can be made to fit on a 610. Could anyone who's had experience with this shed some light on which years of 510 are ideal, and what kind of modification is necessary? Or maybe it either doesn't work or isn't worth it?

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Bonvo, I clicked a link in your sig and noticed MR2 seats-- a previous owner of my car put some in mine too, but I'm not familiar enough with 610s or MR2s to know if they needed to be modified to fit. Mind telling about your swap? Direct bolt-in? Simple fabrication (re-drilling holes, etc)? I found posts made by my car's previous previous owner and he seemed to not like them, but I think they're great. Comfortable, well bolstered, and they seem to sit pretty low which is good for me being 6'5". Plenty of head room. Everyone else looks like a little kid in my car, peeking up over the door to look out the window...

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I'll update my original post with a list as people post ideas of what might work and/or confirm what definitely does work.

 

 

To get the ball rolling, one example which I haven't been able to confirm is bumpers--I've read that smaller 510 bumpers can be made to fit on a 610. Could anyone who's had experience with this shed some light on which years of 510 are ideal, and what kind of modification is necessary? Or maybe it either doesn't work or isn't worth it?

Yes, I have been told the 510 bumpers work also, but it comes with some modification to work. datsunfreak was the one who originally graced us with the idea.

 

I will help out. (If you haven't done so already) Take a look at my build for my '73 sedan. Yes, the projector lights from a BMW fit, but the outer (low) beams take a LOT of work to retrofit (too deep, requires cutting inner fenderwell). I recommend for 610 owners to use 4 of the inner (high) beams and use the corresponding cartridge lights to fit. There have been a lot of little things I have found recently that I regret about that swap...

 

As for the basics, upgrade the brakes. I knew nbesheer, who had the car prior to the guy you bought it from. I have personally worked on your car, and I have always admired it. Get the 280ZX front struts AND some LCAs. The rear brake swap has been outlined here often, use the plates that ratsun member 'compression' sells...they were engineered with the 610 in mind (he owned one during the production process of the plates).

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Bonvo, I clicked a link in your sig and noticed MR2 seats-- a previous owner of my car put some in mine too, but I'm not familiar enough with 610s or MR2s to know if they needed to be modified to fit. Mind telling about your swap? Direct bolt-in? Simple fabrication (re-drilling holes, etc)? I found posts made by my car's previous previous owner and he seemed to not like them, but I think they're great. Comfortable, well bolstered, and they seem to sit pretty low which is good for me being 6'5". Plenty of head room. Everyone else looks like a little kid in my car, peeking up over the door to look out the window...

 

i agree with zerow, talk to datsunfreak. (might be easier to get ahold of on jnc) He did the 510 bumpers on his 610. Check the first page of the 610s unite thread for pics. As for my mr2 sweats the front mounts were almost perfect, I had to hog out the holes and trim the brakets a little, as for the rear, the 610 has rather large anchor points on the floor for apparently no reason, that were perfect for the mr2 mount so i ran a nut and bolt threw that. For the last mount, i made a riser out of tubing and put some hefty flat washers on both both sides of the floor board, then bolted it all down. I can snag pics of this set up if you like. The main reason i did this, was because i got the seats for free.

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  • 2 years later...

A few guesses...

 

Where to start? 

Info Organization?

Debate over "good" vs "bad" interchange choices? (ex: 200sx rear discs) 

Reliability of provided info?

Part-mod-to-fit info? (which will vary for each vehicle the swapped part enters - and there can be several methods)

Links to info avail. elsewhere OR standalone data reference point?

Abundant disorganized info is already available and somewhat searchable....although ridonkulously time consuming I will admit. 

The ever growing list of suddenly NLA sh*t. that was available last time so and so did such and such...

 

In the end I betcha itz prolly 'cuz the vudu-jedi-mindfuck of parts inta-switcha-billy caused someones head to explode.

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well this my thread reviving question:

 

I have a 1973 610 coupe (auto)

I'm swapping a KA24e into it, and wanted to know if the F4W71 four-speed manual trans and assembly works in the 610, or if anyone has heard of it done (I have a complete 74' 620, disassembled) ... I haven't seen anything in the forum.

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Stock F4W63 610 4 speeds are 31.5"long.

The '74 620's F4W71B is 31.5" long

 

You haven't seen this transmission / KA engine combo before or in any search because it doesn't work. It will bolt to the KA motor but it won't work bolt into the car properly.

 

My advice is get the 5 speed from any Z series powered 720 or second generation 200sx (S110) It should fit and work and you shouldn't have to shorten the driveshaft.

 

A stronger transmission is the one that came with the KA24E, (FS5W71C) in either the S13 or the D21. In either case the driveshaft will need mods.

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Ooh! Ooh!

 

While we are addressing possibly silly questions, I have one....

 

Why the heck doesnt anyone use the rear sump pan and oil pickup from the KA powered nissan trucks when swapping them into 510's etc???

This would seem more straightforward than screwing around with the crossmember and front swaybar, etc...

 

Beyond that... couldnt one simply lop off the front sump pan and fab a fitting one to the flange, and make a pickup to go with it.....perfect excuse for a baffled pan anyhow. But instead of making pans to fit the cars, we have companies making aftermarket x-members of dubious quality..

 

Why hack a $5k+ car to fit a $50 oilpan?????

 

I just dont see how that is harder than the popular methods... and far less disruptive to the 40 year old car doing the hosting. 

 

Someone....enlighten me PLEASE

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Ooh! Ooh!

 

While we are addressing possibly silly questions, I have one....

 

Why the heck doesnt anyone use the rear sump pan and oil pickup from the KA powered nissan trucks when swapping them into 510's etc???

This would seem more straightforward than screwing around with the crossmember and front swaybar, etc...

 

Beyond that... couldnt one simply lop off the front sump pan and fab a fitting one to the flange, and make a pickup to go with it.....perfect excuse for a baffled pan anyhow. But instead of making pans to fit the cars, we have companies making aftermarket x-members of dubious quality..

 

Why hack a $5k+ car to fit a $50 oilpan?????

 

I just dont see how that is harder than the popular methods... and far less disruptive to the 40 year old car doing the hosting. 

 

Someone....enlighten me PLEASE

Short answer: anyone with a welder can flip a crossmember pretty quickly. 1 part to modify, nearly a free mod at that too, and doesn't have to be watertight, and it is pretty obvious if it is going to fit or not. Much cheaper, much faster, much easier.

 

Also if you really need to run an L series again, you can get a front sump pickup and pan. The 510 is a midsump pan.

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I have the S13 front sump KA ... I wanted to eventually go with the Z-tranny, but was hoping to make use of the 71B trans since it was just lying around. Okay another possibly silly question, can I use the 71B assembly on the 5-speed Z powered trans?

 

I like your thinking but even if you could oh say swap bellhousings between the Z and L, what are the chances you would find an incomplete Z transmission? More than likely you will find a complete one and just swap it in...

 

If you can't find a Z series trans then just get a 71C and shorten the driveshaft for like what? 50-100 bucks? Stronger tranny and more availability if  something catastrophic were to happen. Sorry for being a negative nancy, just being realistic :P

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Short answer: anyone with a welder can flip a crossmember pretty quickly. 1 part to modify, nearly a free mod at that too, and doesn't have to be watertight, and it is pretty obvious if it is going to fit or not. Much cheaper, much faster, much easier.

 

Also if you really need to run an L series again, you can get a front sump pickup and pan. The 510 is a midsump pan.

 

That would be a sufficient enough explanation 

 

EXCEPT

 

Power is nothing without control - the easiest solution is rarely the best. 

 

The pan method doesn t even require a welder - just a trip to a junkyard for 2 easily located non mechanical parts. 

 

id rather have a bad weld in an oilpan than a xmember anyday.... 

 

and 

 

 What then do you do for a front swaybar?  

 

You mentioned nothing of the fabwork, difficulty, or cost of getting one put in. 

I never see SRKA cars with them, unless they are megabuck projects. 

 

Driving a 510 without a size-able front swaybar is really never going to handle or corner as well as the same car with one installed. 

 

To me - the swap is INCOMPLETE without one... and inferior as a result.  Any sh*tbox can fly in a straight line with enough power, but SO FEW cars can keep up with a 510 down a windy country road... this is why I own one. I dont understand sacrificing that for a modern motor and a suspension setup that will send you sliding off the road.

 

Attempting to double the power of an otherwise "incorrect" platform doesnt really make for superior performance. Especially as soon as the car hits a few consecutive corners. 

 

If all that matters is power... why buy a 510 in the first place?  The IRS and resulting camber change under heavy accel torq-load will never effectively put down much more than 200whp (unless it gets strapped to a dyno) the rest is all for wheelspin and bitchin' bench racing. (talking about how fast your car is)  

 

Anyone saying that the effects of going barless can be countered with stiffer springs REALLY needs to read "How to make Your Car Handle" by HP books. Plenty of Datsun pics and examples in that book, and complete detailed cause-and-effect chapters dedicated to the role of various suspension parts and their purpose on a vehicle. Great couple of pages in there about how bars work and how altering or adjusting them affects a car.  Not to mention just about every formula you need to figure out things from spring rate, to roll center. 

 

Sorry, but i still dont get it...

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The pan method doesn t even require a welder - just a trip to a junkyard for 2 easily located non mechanical parts. 

 

Sorry, but i still dont get it...

 

You are incorrect. Using a truck pan actually requires MORE welding than the crossmember flip.   ;)

 

510 is mid-sump and rear steer. The D21 truck is rear sump and front steer. The truck oil pan needs to occupy the same space as the 510 center link. They can not.   B)

 

In case you're curious, on my first KA24E/510 swap I wondered the exact same thing you did. So I tried it. Had to do major surgery on the truck pan to get it to clear the steering center link. Took a lot of welding on some VERY thin metal. Next two KA swaps I flipped the crossmember.  :thumbup:

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Driving a 510 without a size-able front swaybar is really never going to handle or corner as well as the same car with one installed. 

 

To me - the swap is INCOMPLETE without one... and inferior as a result.  Any sh*tbox can fly in a straight line with enough power, but SO FEW cars can keep up with a 510 down a windy country road... this is why I own one. I dont understand sacrificing that for a modern motor and a suspension setup that will send you sliding off the road.

 

Anyone saying that the effects of going barless can be countered with stiffer springs REALLY needs to read "How to make Your Car Handle" by HP books. 

 

Personally, I think you have it backwards. A sway bar is a band-aid fix for a car whose springs aren't stiff enough.  :rofl:

 

I've driven well set-up Datsuns without them and they drive just fine. 510s have an understeer problem already. Taking the front sway bar off actually makes this "better".

 

Having said that, an off-the-shelf sway bar solution exists for the front-sump cars that is relatively cheap and easy to get. There's nothing to really "fabricate" there.    :thumbup:

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Thank you 'Freak!

 

 I had wondered about the steering linkage.... I figured that was the answer I would get... And i am REALLY glad to know that at least someone has tried it....Every swapper i have met in person didnt even know there was another sump possibility to explore, they just flipped without thinking about alternatives....because thats what someone before them did. 

 

That in mind... goddamn I wish someone was making pans instead of x-members. CX motorsports seems to be attempting to be a 1 stop shop for the SR swap, but their parts are questionable, and I have heard the Xmembers are worthless. it would seem to me that a baffled oil pan and pickup that fits the car properly would be the trick part for the aftermarket to provide...  who doesnt want a baffled pan - regardless of motor choice? (FYI if anyone says "drysump" guys dont want one - i will kick a puppy)

 

i still wanna know.... what you do for a front bar???  what is the off the shelf option and why does no-one seem to have it. ?

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I've read that smaller 510 bumpers can be made to fit on a 610. Could anyone who's had experience with this shed some light on which years of 510 are ideal, and what kind of modification is necessary? Or maybe it either doesn't work or isn't worth it?

 

I seem to be the only person who has ever tried this, so...   ^_^

 

Front bumper = 510 brackets bolt straight onto a 610 with no mods. Bumper will rub the fenders. I trimmed 1/8" off the inside edge of the bumper "legs" and it fit just fine.

 

Rear bumper = Need to trim about 5-6" off each leg to shorten them (splice and rechrome would look better than just cut but I just cut mine). 510 brackets will bolt up to the 610 rear panel and sit at the correct angle, but you need to drill new holes for it. None of the existing holes for the rear will match up.

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they just flipped without thinking about alternatives....because thats what someone before them did. 

 

When I did my first swap there were only two known running KA 510s, so there wasn't too much "just do what everyone else did"...    :rofl:

 

 

That in mind... goddamn I wish someone was making pans instead of x-members. CX motorsports seems to be attempting to be a 1 stop shop for the SR swap, but their parts are questionable, and I have heard the Xmembers are worthless. it would seem to me that a baffled oil pan and pickup that fits the car properly would be the trick part for the aftermarket to provide...  who doesnt want a baffled pan - regardless of motor choice? (FYI if anyone says "drysump" guys dont want one - i will kick a puppy)

 

Some guys have talked about making a bolt-in mid-sump pan. It always came down to this: it would cost about $200-225 retail for a correct pan and all the cheap motherfuckers on this website said they'd never pay that. So that's where it ends. 

 

Unless you can figure out how to produce one for less than the cost of a sway bar, it'll never fly. 

 

Also, that only covers the KA24E/KA24DE into a 510. The SR20DE(T) will require a whole new pan as well. As would the CA18DE(T). Starting to see why most people would rather just buy a sway bar?

 

 

i still wanna know.... what you do for a front bar???  what is the off the shelf option and why does no-one seem to have it. ?

 

 

Well, Quickor makes a 7/8" bar that I used on both of mine. As I recall they were $245.

 

MadDat makes a 1" bar that works with the front sump pans, it's around $265.  http://maddat.com.au/1600.php

 

McKinney Motorsports makes a 1" bar for $325. http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_DATSUN+510+SR-KA+mount+kit

 

Heck, here's a 1" on ebay for $265 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-510-FRONT-SUMP-1-INCH-SWAY-BAR-/200922884882

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