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my ebay babies! 320(daily) + N320(project)


MatFink

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The tale of the tape(ok, i used my eyes and the distance from my elbow to the tips of my fingers) for me regarding length differences and legroom etc is as follows:

 

the chassis as we know are virtually identical bar a few mounting tabs. the NL doors ARE 5-6in longer. HOWEVER - if you view the gap from the back of the door to the rear window, you'll see its lucky to be about 3in for the NL, whereas the L curves back nice and deep, making up the difference. any legroom benefit is purely perception, the difference if any would be less than inch - and could be something as simple as having the seat slid all the way back (where the upright section is far too flat and uncomfortable - no thanks!). the only real benefit i see (besides stylistic preference), is the NL would therefore be easier to get in and out of for the overly proportionate lads such as myself. :)

 

 

I have been saying the same thing, the NL320 bench seat is in the same position as the L320 bench seat, my NL320 bench seat also has a thicker back than the L320, so I suppose if I used a L320 bench seat I might gain an inch or two, maybe. All the extra room is in back of the seat, which does nothing for my cramped legs. The rear window is farther back though, about 3 1/2 inches, just measure from the rear window to the center of the dash on both vehicles, the L320 is 33 1/2 inches from the rear window to the top dash center, the NL320 is 37 inches, but dash center to the back of the seat at it's closest point is 29 inches for the L320, and it is 29 1/2 for the NL320. I heard there is a guy over here that put NL320 doors on a L320 truck, they stretched/lengthened the cab to accomidate the doors, if the seat is still as close to the back window as it is when stock, they gained about 5 inches of legroom, as that is the differance between the doors, the NL doors are 5 inches. longer.

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nothing much to report, just felt like checking in! the 320 is still going strong, hasn't missed a beat in over a year of daily grind. the N is still waiting for some TLC in my dad's front yard. here's my attempt at getting fancy with a iphone pic, city skyline as the backdrop.

534930_10151869377860640_389195879_n.jpg

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help! can anyone tell me if there is an equivalent ryco part number for the original oil filter on my E1 motor? called them and was assured the one they got in would fit (for an E1 bluebird), but now I've got it (and the car already apart ready to put it in), it's half the height of the OG filter. I can't seem to find any stockists in Oz who have the NAPA one.

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ok so a bit of an over-reaction on my part...been trying to do a little preventative maintenance lately and it seems everywhere I turn is a fresh can of worms!

 

photo2.jpg

 

so after getting them side by side and checking what the specs of the napa 1300 are, i have the following:

 

napa 1300 height - 107mm

filter that was in the car - 130mm

new ryco filter R243P - 104mm

 

diameters seem right. my question is will the spring inside the oil filter housing take up the slack for the difference in height? especially since it's seemingly been compressed much more with this bigger filter since forever??

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turns out it will not. the new filter was too short. SO! seems the australian delivery cars must have a different fitment?! I've pulled the filters out of all three E1 engines I have here, all were the same, 130mm (not including the rubber at each end).

 

closest I have found is Ryco R2154P - which is apparently obsolete according to ryco. couple sources have it, all out of state though.

have found a Donaldson equivalent to this ryco one, P550052. Will investigate the availability of this one tomorrow!!

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turns out it will not. the new filter was too short. SO! seems the australian delivery cars must have a different fitment?! I've pulled the filters out of all three E1 engines I have here, all were the same, 130mm (not including the rubber at each end).

 

closest I have found is Ryco R2154P - which is apparently obsolete according to ryco. couple sources have it, all out of state though.

have found a Donaldson equivalent to this ryco one, P550052. Will investigate the availability of this one tomorrow!!

 

 

Are 65 E1 engines have a spin on filter, can you use a spin on type mount assembly from a J block over there?

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quite probably, had a look at it and I reckon I could even get a Moke or an MG one to fit. My woes however have increased....seems the 'missing' I was experiencing was not electrical as I first thought. Got it to the old boy's and checked the compression, zero in #2, around 20 in #1. :(

 

SO...the big decision - rebuild or replace? if replace, with what?? J series motors don't appear to crop up too often here, but I've yet to suss out their availability at wreckers etc...

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I have put an A block/5 spd. in a 320 before and it ran/drove great, don't know what vehicles you imported with A blocks.

Seems like that you aussies got the 620s with the J15/16 blocks over there instead of the L blocks, the J block will basicly bolt in I beleave, and I beleave you can bolt it to your transmission as the 65 came with the floor shift.

There are a few guys over there that are removing there E1 blocks for engine upgrades, but I have no idea how close they are to you in Sydney.

An L block will barely fit in a 320, not sure if it is really worth the effort, as most the 320 L block conversions I know of over here don't have a cab heater anymore.

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I have put an A block/5 spd. in a 320 before and it ran/drove great, don't know what vehicles you imported with A blocks.

Seems like that you aussies got the 620s with the J15/16 blocks over there instead of the L blocks, the J block will basicly bolt in I beleave, and I beleave you can bolt it to your transmission as the 65 came with the floor shift.

There are a few guys over there that are removing there E1 blocks for engine upgrades, but I have no idea how close they are to you in Sydney.

An L block will barely fit in a 320, not sure if it is really worth the effort, as most the 320 L block conversions I know of over here don't have a cab heater anymore.

just had a loooong chat with a datsun specialist down in South Australia, he was extremely helpful and gave me some awesome advice, highly recommend! http://www.datsport.com/

 

he did however let me know that I'd be hard-pressed finding A/J series motors, as the first thing most aussies did was turf them and put bigger motors in?!

 

if i go the rebuild route he can supply j13 parts to complete the job, which will require a bore job, but to my understanding will work? he also seemed to think based my description of the problem that it may just be the valves/head that needs work. the hard part is deciding whether to go down that path...nothing worse thatn throwing good money after bad, i.e. spend the smaller amount getting head re-done only to find that the rings ARE stuffed as well. :confused:

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found this in a really old thread on the general discussion board....can anyone confirm this?

 

The E1 differences are mostly with how the oil filter and distributor drive bosses are configured, at least externally.

 

The J13 HEAD interchanges (boltwise) with the E1, and the pistons are identical. But the block is quite different inside. You CAN exchange the intakes between them.

 

The MGB intake bolts on, as does the exhaust... when the engine is on a stand. In a truck, they run straight into the steering shaft. There's simply no room to install them.

 

if the pistons are identical, even if i have to do the rings, i should be ok as i've established i can get j13 parts....

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So...long time no update.  The datto duo sit lonely and rusting in Brisbane as due to an unplanned chain of events I've had another drastic relocation for work (am now in Cairns).  Rego has now lapsed on the flatbed and much as it kills me I just don't have the time or the space to work on them here, let alone the cost of getting them going and transported yet again...both may soon be up for sale.

 

:crying:

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