KA24DE Swap

[jastrunk97]

all you need to do is reverse taper the center link the stock oil pan will work

 

 

how do you do that? sorry im a noob :) but i gotta learn somhow?

[Project Bandwagon]

I bought a wrecked 240 and stole everything i could think i would use. i had $150 into the car, and sold the wheels for $200, and bought them back for $150 with newer tires (hard up=good deal)

I think with my complete swap I've got roughly $1000 into mine, including the $400 i paid for the truck. that doesn't include the 1 piece driveshaft im having built, or the racing seats i just picked up.

[Project Bandwagon]

how do you do that? sorry im a noob :) but i gotta learn somhow?

 

basically where the center link bolts into look like this \../

to flip it to the bottom side, you have to grind the bottom of the hole as wide as the top making it look like this |...|,

then i welded a washer on the top side making it look like this /..\ to be able to keep the bolt centered.

 

i hope that makes sense, it looks kind of dumb now that i re-read it, but if you take your center link off (2 nuts) and maybe a hammer to knock it out. you'll know what i mean

[]2eDeYe]

how do you do that? sorry im a noob :) but i gotta learn somhow?

 

 

My build thread has just about all the info you need to do this swap. It was about $200 to have a local 4X4 shop reverse the taper on my pitman arm and idler arm. I have seen a few people just drill them out and run heims (rod-ends), but I prefer the peice of mind tie-rods give as they don't come apart when they fail and give you plenty of warning before they do fail.

 

KA24DE into a 1977 620

 

 

P.S. I also sell motor mount brackets to allow you to install the motor without having to modify the firewall/transmission tunnel. Link is in my sig.

 

 

Edit: My swap ran me right around $1800 total after all the little stuff; $500 for the motor set with ecu and harness, 720 transmission that would bolt into the truck, new fuel pump, new clutch, reversing the tie-rod taper, wiring components, random bolts and whatnot.

[carl]

I did it my self with these http://www.harborfre...bits-66463.html just take out the center link weld the holes in and drill the hole out with a reguler drill bit 3/8. then use the drill with the stepless bit and drill it from the bottom

[]2eDeYe]

Which bit did you use? Do you know what the taper is? I will have to order a set of those, thanks for the link.

 

I rechecked my cost on the retaper and it was $120. Not whatever I said up there :lol:

[mrbigtanker]

2eDeYe' date='26 January 2012 - 08:06 AM' timestamp='1327593996' post='620241']

My build thread has just about all the info you need to do this swap. It was about $200 to have a local 4X4 shop reverse the taper on my pitman arm and idler arm. I have seen a few people just drill them out and run heims (rod-ends), but I prefer the peice of mind tie-rods give as they don't come apart when they fail and give you plenty of warning before they do fail.

 

KA24DE into a 1977 620

 

 

P.S. I also sell motor mount brackets to allow you to install the motor without having to modify the firewall/transmission tunnel. Link is in my sig.

 

 

Edit: My swap ran me right around $1800 total after all the little stuff; $500 for the motor set with ecu and harness, 720 transmission that would bolt into the truck, new fuel pump, new clutch, reversing the tie-rod taper, wiring components, random bolts and whatnot.

do they work with 521 also.the motor mount kit that is and does that include the tranny support to.

[carl]

2eDeYe' date='27 January 2012 - 04:59 PM' timestamp='1327712362' post='621271']

Which bit did you use? Do you know what the taper is? I will have to order a set of those, thanks for the link.

 

I rechecked my cost on the retaper and it was $120. Not whatever I said up there :lol:

 

I used the bigger one to finish it but you need to take your time. The steper is a little bigger then what you need so go slow I had to redo one side

[Cpl620]

There are a few companies that make a low profile oil pans for the KA since you can't take it off the engine with it still in a 240. im not sure if it would help for a 620.

 

 

[]2eDeYe]

do they work with 521 also.the motor mount kit that is and does that include the tranny support to.

 

I've had a bit of conflicting information on that. I don't think they will. I don't have a 521 to verify either way.

 

I also now have updated 620 mounts available.

 

620 KA24 Mount Brackets

 

 

There are a few companies that make a low profile oil pans for the KA since you can't take it off the engine with it still in a 240. im not sure if it would help for a 620.

 

Do you have any links for these? I'd like to see where they trimmed the fat.

[Cpl620]

For this one, you just need an SR sump from greddy or anything. I like this setup since they have windage trays and a tranny support.

http://www.xcessivem...&step=4&pid=145

 

This one below is a dry sump and only works for the truck engines, since the crank cap of the 240sx ka24 come down too far. I'm in the process of possibly changing the 240's setup into individual main caps for clearance. ill have to get back to you on this. These are the only two I know of. this one can be found here. http://www.drysump.c...issanDatsun.htm

 

[]2eDeYe]

That's nice, wonder how far forward that reservoir is to clear the center link.

 

 

[Cpl620]

the back of the reservoir is pretty close to the oil catch so i wouldn't expect too much. that setup was to be able to drop past the sway bar because of how deep the pan was. guess ill be re-drilling my center link like the others.