L20B 2.3 STROKER MAYBE?

[cdreandrade]

I got the old girl running again with a replacement tranny with a lil help from you guys. so now I am sitting on two long blocks fully assembled.

 

Needless to say I am naturally going to take one apart.

 

I was reading on old datsuns and a few other sites about turning one of my engines into a stroker.

 

Here is the info coutesey of olddatsuns.com of course:

 

"

Medium block 2.4 Liter.

Stuff a Z24 crank and pistons into NAPS-Z or L20B block bored to 89mm by cutting down crank counterweights and clearance grinding block as per Ben Pila. This gives you a 2389cc L-series motor that doesnt require using defective (crack prone) Z24 block, fabricating timing cover, lengthening timing chain or modification to close hood. Z24 piston tops will need to be milled down slightly. Fedral-Mogul 33.8mm pin height pistons might not need milling? Click HERE for Bens write-up of necessary modifications.

Compression ratio with Z24 pistons and open chambered head is 10.25:1 before pistons milled.

parts: : modified Z22 block, modified Z24 crank, modified Z24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods

s/2+r+p: 227.7

piston deck height: 0.45 (above deck)

 

stroker 2.3 Liter

Stuff a Z24 crank into a modified Z20/Z22/L20B block by cutting down counterweights as above.

No piston modification or block boring needed for 2283cc L series.

see http://hobbslaw.nissanpower.com/custom2.html for an example

Russ noted that his deck height measured -1.77mm with the Z22E pistons that he first tried using, he eventually used milled Z22S pistons to achieve a higher compression ratio.

Parts: Z24 crank, Z22E pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods in a Z22 block or +2mm bored Z20/L20B block.

s/2+r+p= 96/2+145.9+32.1= 226.0 mm

piston deck height: -1.45mm below deck"

 

anyone ever seen one? and is it worth it?

 

I want to have the stroker and a stock on hand. It seams fairly simple to perform this mod. I do have some questions about what cam and intake(custom?) and exhaust(custom?) to use. or how about the medium block?

 

[skunk]

i want a pic of your wheels

[cdreandrade]

i want a pic of your wheels

 

give me a few days and ill get one. still got the dats at my grandpas. might be swithching to 14's anyway

[datzenmike]

...... Here is the info coutesey of olddatsuns.com of course:

 

"

Medium block 2.4 Liter.

Stuff a Z24 crank and pistons into NAPS-Z or L20B block bored to 89mm by cutting down crank counterweights and clearance grinding block as per Ben Pila. This gives you a 2389cc L-series motor that doesnt require using defective (crack prone) Z24 block, fabricating timing cover, lengthening timing chain or modification to close hood. Z24 piston tops will need to be milled down slightly. Fedral-Mogul 33.8mm pin height pistons might not need milling? Click HERE for Bens write-up of necessary modifications.

Compression ratio with Z24 pistons and open chambered head is 10.25:1 before pistons milled.

parts: : modified Z22 block, modified Z24 crank, modified Z24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods

s/2+r+p: 227.7

piston deck height: 0.45 (above deck)

 

stroker 2.3 Liter

Stuff a Z24 crank into a modified Z20/Z22/L20B block by cutting down counterweights as above.

No piston modification or block boring needed for 2283cc L series.

see http://hobbslaw.niss...om/custom2.html for an example

Russ noted that his deck height measured -1.77mm with the Z22E pistons that he first tried using, he eventually used milled Z22S pistons to achieve a higher compression ratio.

Parts: Z24 crank, Z22E pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods in a Z22 block or +2mm bored Z20/L20B block.

s/2+r+p= 96/2+145.9+32.1= 226.0 mm

piston deck height: -1.45mm below deck"

 

anyone ever seen one? and is it worth it?

 

It seams fairly simple to perform this mod.....

 

I assure you it is not. The Z24 crank does not fit without placing in a lathe and trimming a half inch off all the throws AND clearance grinding the block. Also the Z24 is 2cm taller than the L20B and for good reason. Increasing the stroke while shortening the rods puts increased strain and side loading on the pistons as the revs go up. If this was ok to do Nissan would simply have built them this way.

 

Intake and exhaust manifolds??? Just use L series and Lseries mounts and oil pan so that this remains an L series motor, just larger.

[cdreandrade]

I assure you it is not. The Z24 crank does not fit without placing in a lathe and trimming a half inch off all the throws AND clearance grinding the block. Also the Z24 is 2cm taller than the L20B and for good reason. Increasing the stroke while shortening the rods puts increased strain and side loading on the pistons as the revs go up. If this was ok to do Nissan would simply have built them this way.

 

Intake and exhaust manifolds??? Just use L series and Lseries mounts and oil pan so that this remains an L series motor, just larger.

 

Do you think it is worth it for a play motor? I would have my local machine shop do the trimming and grinding since the block will be there to get bored anyway. it would be a nice sleeper motor that looks like an l motor but packs some extra power like you say. I guess what I'm asking is would you do this to one of yours?

[datzenmike]

The only reason for doing this is to eliminate the Z24 block which sometimes has cracks. That's a lot of machine work and balancing.

 

I would get a good Z24 motor and put an L head on it... and the other mods to make it work. Cheaper easier.

 

Or a Z22 block, bore out to 89mm and fit KA24E pistons on it and an L head. 2.3 Liter reasonable compression.

[Burabuda]

The only reason for doing this is to eliminate the Z24 block which sometimes has cracks.

 

I would get a good Z24 motor and put an L head on it... and the other mods to make it work.

there are some other reasons:

1) "drop in" the engine as opposed to fabbing mounts

2) "fool" gawkers and haters into thinking you have a 2.0

3) "bolt up" head without modding front cover, etc.

4) use l-series tranny

 

note: when you use an l-series head on either combo it's gonna need extensive mods to breath

not cost-effective nowadays

 

i've driven the lz24 combo, and it sorta sucks by today's standards

was cool idea back in the day when it was used on baja 1000 trucks tho

[cdreandrade]

The only reason for doing this is to eliminate the Z24 block which sometimes has cracks. That's a lot of machine work and balancing.

 

I would get a good Z24 motor and put an L head on it... and the other mods to make it work. Cheaper easier.

 

Or a Z22 block, bore out to 89mm and fit KA24E pistons on it and an L head. 2.3 Liter reasonable compression.

 

What vehicle do I get the z24 from and what other mods are there to do?

 

buda referenced breathing issues?

 

I think I need about ten trucks with all different types of mods and I might be happy but for now I have one.

[cdreandrade]

also the more I look the KA motors are becoming very apealing what vehicle would be best to steal one from?

[Burabuda]

ka24de in many people's opinions is the best 4cyl choice swap for a datsun

[datzenmike]

also the more I look the KA motors are becoming very apealing what vehicle would be best to steal one from?

 

Early 240sx with the KA24E not the D-21 Hardbody... they didn't have the fully floating piston pins.

[cdreandrade]

Early 240sx with the KA24E not the D-21 Hardbody... they didn't have the fully floating piston pins.

 

*wallet opens*

 

and the search begins!