Jump to content
Zeusimo

How To: Replace Valve Stem Seals

Recommended Posts

So, You've Decided To Change Your Valve Stem Seals?

Great, This Is Just A Little Guide To Help You Out On You're Grand Adventure..

 

First Off Gather Your Required Tools And Parts

 

- Overhead Valve Spring Compressor

http://www.summitrac...parts/OTC-4573/

DSC03063.jpg

 

- New Valve Stem Seals

I Read Somewhere On Here That You Can Also Use Ford Valve Stem Seals Made Of Viton

Better Material And Desired For Performance Cam Applications Upto 0.600"+

Unfortunately I Can't Find The Thread Anymore (Maybe Datzenmike Will Shine On This?)

So I Used Regular Fel-Pro SS 27149

DSC03062.jpg

 

- 8 Sammich Bags To Hold Rockers, Springs, Etc... IN ORDER!!!

DSC03110.jpg

 

- 7.5" PVC Pipe Or Wooden Block

 

- Basic Tools, Sockets, New Valve Cover Gasket Would Be Nice

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Ok, Now For Preparation

 

- Remove Hood And Set Aside (Unless You're A Midget And Won't Bump Your Head Every 2 Seconds)

DSC03105.jpg

 

- Disconnect Battery (Not Really Necessary Just Common Practice)

DSC03075.jpg

 

- Remove Spark Plugs

DSC03070.jpg

 

- Remove Valve Cover

DSC02932.jpg

Share this post


Link to post

I Guess Now You're Ready To Begin

 

Set Motor At Top Dead Center

Should Look Like This Either Position 1, 2, Etc..

DSC03071.jpg

 

Loosen Cam Sprocket And Set To TDC Once More

Make Sure The Left Side Of Chain Is NOT Loose

DSC03081.jpg

 

Now With Wooden Block Or Like Me And My PVC Pipe Jam The Chain So It Won't Work Itself Loose

DSC03084.jpg

 

Now You Can Remove Sprocket And Drop Chain

DSC03085.jpg

 

Next Step Is To Remove Rockers

DSC03088.jpg

 

List Spring From Original Position

DSC03089.jpg

 

And Unhook

DSC03091.jpg

 

Remove All Of These And Place In Appropriate Sammich Bag

Share this post


Link to post

Now Loosen The Rocker Lock Nut

DSC03093.jpg

 

Now Loosen And Backseat Rocker Adjusting Nut Clockwise

DSC03094.jpg

 

REMEMBER: Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty

 

Now To Remove Rockers I've Uploaded A Quick Little Video To Help You Out

DSC03095.gif

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xDTdLGwHBQ

 

Now That You've Removed The Rockers It's Time To Slide The Cam Out

DSC03098.jpg

Share this post


Link to post

First Remove Retainer Plate

DSC03086.jpg

 

Loosen Left Motor Mount

DSC03103.jpg

 

And Lift Motor Until You Have Enough Clearance To Slide Cam Out

DSC03107.jpg

DSC03102.jpg

 

Now That You've Removed The Cam Stuff Each Cylinder With Rope To Hold Valve In Place

DSC03113.jpg

 

Place Valve Spring Compressor On Springs, Compress And Remove

DSC03124.jpg

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4jwa8aBYPc

 

Simply Remove Old Seals With Pliers And Replace With New Ones

DSC03116.jpg

 

First Place Condom On Valve, Carefully Slide Oiled Seal Through Stem And With Socket Push Down Until It Pops Into Place

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xG6HLVFEPT0

 

Repeat Process On All Cylinders

 

Now Repeat Entire Process Backward For Assembly, Adjust Valve Lash And You're Ready To Go :lol:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

If you are at TDC the #2 and #3 pistons are at the bottom of their stroke. It'll take a lot of rope to fill the cylinder and hold the valves in place.

Share this post


Link to post

another trick is to use a leak down tester and apply air to the cylinder to valves seated...

Share this post


Link to post

I did something similar accept did two cylinders at time.

Leave cam sprocket on at first ( but can break the bold loose)

Opened two cylinders up, stuffed each end of rope into both cylinders and manually moved cylinders up tight against the rope, securing the valves in very well. I then marked the CENTER of the chain link and on the sprocket with something that won't wipe off easily (a silver sharpy works fine). Then remove the rockers if haven't done already then remove the camp plate and pull out the front making sure not to bind or scratch the surfaces.

 

It is kind of a pain, but that way I am CERTAIN I won't drop a valve into the cylinder.

I stuffed about 5' into each side and made sure to use nice soft nylon rope to nothing got bent or scratched.

Just put the cam sprocket back on (matching up the marks), lossen the cylinder, take out the ropes and do the same thing for the other two. It took me like 2 hours I think, but only because I had never done it before.

Share this post


Link to post

I guess you can't get at the valve spring with the cam in? Pretty sure I saw a pry bar type compressor you slip under the cam for leverage. Very fast and the cam stays in.

Share this post


Link to post

Zeusimo.....great thread!! Great work!! Thanks!!!

 

I've seen the pry bar style.....I'm curious how well it works. I'd probably throw the cam in and rotate everything 180 to get the other two pistons to the top, but not having to remove the cam would be sweet. :)

 

Be careful with the air setup.....if the piston is down and the valve seal is not good to the head(either from carbon build up or because you bump the vavle) ....you can drop a valve.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

well thats what the air pressure is for though....to keep the valve up.

Share this post


Link to post

Yep...you're right....I was just saying to be careful if they go that route. Once you get the pressure up over about 40 psi, it will push the piston down if you don't have it at exactly TDC....which leaves plenty of room for the valve to fall. Not rotating the engine because of the timing chain is one of the challenges. Pluse, it all hinges on the valve having a good seal. Carbon deposits can cause a leak and accidentally hitting the end of the valve stem can break the seal. .....BUT....I have used that method and it worked well. I actually used the hose from a compression tester with a quick connect to the gauge.

Share this post


Link to post

Air will work but it requires hoses, fittings and a compressor, or need to be near one and electricity. The risk is loss of pressure from a leak or electricity. Rope can be used anywhere even out in the desert..... and you can stop for the night and finish in the morning without worry and an absolute guarantee that the valve cannot possibly fall in.

 

Occam's Razor, (also known as

  • The Principle of Plurality - Plurality should not be posited without necessity
  • The Principle of Parsimony - It is pointless to do with more what is done with less

.... The simplest solution is most often the correct one.

Share this post


Link to post

Just got a JEGS catalog yesterday. Here's their info for the air adapter to hold the valves up.

 

AIR HOLD ADAPTER 555-80522 $9.99

 

FLEXIBLE AIR VAVLE HOLDER 555-W84003 $9.99

Share this post


Link to post

I hear ya.....

Share this post


Link to post

Thanks For The Positive Feedback :D

 

Found Out Where I Read About Those Viton Seals, Better Material, And Desired For High Lift Cams...

Question Is Do They Fit The l4 Series??

 

Check This Out:

http://forums.hybrid...lve-stem-seals/

Share this post


Link to post

I guess you can't get at the valve spring with the cam in? Pretty sure I saw a pry bar type compressor you slip under the cam for leverage. Very fast and the cam stays in.

 

 

I've been looking for 1...found this

 

http://datsun510.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=12343

 

The PN doesn't come up on Nissan Motorsports though

 

99996-26336

 

EDIT

 

It is listed in Nissan MS catalog....but not in Nissanparts.cc

 

Kent-Moore.....408 bucks :blink:

http://www.costplustools.com/NISSAN-INFINITI-Tools_c_944.html

Share this post


Link to post

Nice write up, but capitalizing every word is effing annoying...holy crap.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Nice write up, but capitalizing every word is effing annoying...holy crap.

wow was that intentional?

Share this post


Link to post

wow was that intentional?

 

Who knows....I PMd him in Feb about capitalization

Tried to give him a heads up....

 

His reply...

 

なに?

なにおてるんですか?

 

I managed a couple of neg rep points out of it.... though....:D

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Every single post oh his has the first letter of every word capitalized. Even his newest ones.

Share this post


Link to post

wow was that intentional?

Yes, and it distracts from the usefulness of what would otherwise be good posts. I guess he thinks it's cute, and call me a hater all you want, but it's annoying and makes anyone look like a tool.
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.