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How To: Replace Valve Stem Seals


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So, You've Decided To Change Your Valve Stem Seals?

Great, This Is Just A Little Guide To Help You Out On You're Grand Adventure..


First Off Gather Your Required Tools And Parts


- Overhead Valve Spring Compressor




- New Valve Stem Seals

I Read Somewhere On Here That You Can Also Use Ford Valve Stem Seals Made Of Viton

Better Material And Desired For Performance Cam Applications Upto 0.600"+

Unfortunately I Can't Find The Thread Anymore (Maybe Datzenmike Will Shine On This?)

So I Used Regular Fel-Pro SS 27149



- 8 Sammich Bags To Hold Rockers, Springs, Etc... IN ORDER!!!



- 7.5" PVC Pipe Or Wooden Block


- Basic Tools, Sockets, New Valve Cover Gasket Would Be Nice

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Ok, Now For Preparation


- Remove Hood And Set Aside (Unless You're A Midget And Won't Bump Your Head Every 2 Seconds)



- Disconnect Battery (Not Really Necessary Just Common Practice)



- Remove Spark Plugs



- Remove Valve Cover


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I Guess Now You're Ready To Begin


Set Motor At Top Dead Center

Should Look Like This Either Position 1, 2, Etc..



Loosen Cam Sprocket And Set To TDC Once More

Make Sure The Left Side Of Chain Is NOT Loose



Now With Wooden Block Or Like Me And My PVC Pipe Jam The Chain So It Won't Work Itself Loose



Now You Can Remove Sprocket And Drop Chain



Next Step Is To Remove Rockers



List Spring From Original Position



And Unhook



Remove All Of These And Place In Appropriate Sammich Bag

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Now Loosen The Rocker Lock Nut



Now Loosen And Backseat Rocker Adjusting Nut Clockwise



REMEMBER: Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty


Now To Remove Rockers I've Uploaded A Quick Little Video To Help You Out





Now That You've Removed The Rockers It's Time To Slide The Cam Out


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First Remove Retainer Plate



Loosen Left Motor Mount



And Lift Motor Until You Have Enough Clearance To Slide Cam Out




Now That You've Removed The Cam Stuff Each Cylinder With Rope To Hold Valve In Place



Place Valve Spring Compressor On Springs, Compress And Remove





Simply Remove Old Seals With Pliers And Replace With New Ones



First Place Condom On Valve, Carefully Slide Oiled Seal Through Stem And With Socket Push Down Until It Pops Into Place



Repeat Process On All Cylinders


Now Repeat Entire Process Backward For Assembly, Adjust Valve Lash And You're Ready To Go :lol:

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I did something similar accept did two cylinders at time.

Leave cam sprocket on at first ( but can break the bold loose)

Opened two cylinders up, stuffed each end of rope into both cylinders and manually moved cylinders up tight against the rope, securing the valves in very well. I then marked the CENTER of the chain link and on the sprocket with something that won't wipe off easily (a silver sharpy works fine). Then remove the rockers if haven't done already then remove the camp plate and pull out the front making sure not to bind or scratch the surfaces.


It is kind of a pain, but that way I am CERTAIN I won't drop a valve into the cylinder.

I stuffed about 5' into each side and made sure to use nice soft nylon rope to nothing got bent or scratched.

Just put the cam sprocket back on (matching up the marks), lossen the cylinder, take out the ropes and do the same thing for the other two. It took me like 2 hours I think, but only because I had never done it before.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Zeusimo.....great thread!! Great work!! Thanks!!!


I've seen the pry bar style.....I'm curious how well it works. I'd probably throw the cam in and rotate everything 180 to get the other two pistons to the top, but not having to remove the cam would be sweet. :)


Be careful with the air setup.....if the piston is down and the valve seal is not good to the head(either from carbon build up or because you bump the vavle) ....you can drop a valve.

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Yep...you're right....I was just saying to be careful if they go that route. Once you get the pressure up over about 40 psi, it will push the piston down if you don't have it at exactly TDC....which leaves plenty of room for the valve to fall. Not rotating the engine because of the timing chain is one of the challenges. Pluse, it all hinges on the valve having a good seal. Carbon deposits can cause a leak and accidentally hitting the end of the valve stem can break the seal. .....BUT....I have used that method and it worked well. I actually used the hose from a compression tester with a quick connect to the gauge.

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Air will work but it requires hoses, fittings and a compressor, or need to be near one and electricity. The risk is loss of pressure from a leak or electricity. Rope can be used anywhere even out in the desert..... and you can stop for the night and finish in the morning without worry and an absolute guarantee that the valve cannot possibly fall in.


Occam's Razor, (also known as

  • The Principle of Plurality - Plurality should not be posited without necessity
  • The Principle of Parsimony - It is pointless to do with more what is done with less

.... The simplest solution is most often the correct one.

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  • 4 months later...

I guess you can't get at the valve spring with the cam in? Pretty sure I saw a pry bar type compressor you slip under the cam for leverage. Very fast and the cam stays in.



I've been looking for 1...found this




The PN doesn't come up on Nissan Motorsports though






It is listed in Nissan MS catalog....but not in Nissanparts.cc


Kent-Moore.....408 bucks :blink:


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wow was that intentional?


Who knows....I PMd him in Feb about capitalization

Tried to give him a heads up....


His reply...





I managed a couple of neg rep points out of it.... though....:D

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