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521 project


d510addict

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Well I have been looking at these forums for awhile and was going to build up a 510 project I had lying around, but it was a huge mess and beyond my means to finish. So after my Subaru broke down on me I sold that 510 and found a running drivable 521 that I am going to fix up.

 

The truck itself has a very very straight body and not a lot of rust (only surface rust on floorboards and engine bay no cancer). The only real big issues with the car is it needs minor hopefully bondo free body work done and a full exhaust system as the exhaust is hashed together.

 

Things I want/need to do to the truck:

-fix electrical system as holy hell it is a mess

-new exhaust (from manifold to tail pipe)

-body work and paint

-separate the drums in the rear from the hubs as they are seized on and general brake overhaul maybe leading to a disc conversion later on

-add cutoff switches/decrease the chance someone will steal it

-EI dizzy

-add in horn

-get an e-brake and install

-matching side mirrors


-make new interior panals


Mostly the car needs a lot of little things gone through and done right. Eventually when everything is fixed up I will build up a l20b motor and slap it in.

 

OMG I do not understand why people do this type of shitty wiring I am surprised there were no shorts.

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this is all aftermarket shit I tore out that was all hashed in.

 

Here are some more OIC's

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What was funny is this alarm would have taken literally 2 sec to disarm, rip 1 wire under the dash and it would be disabled. I'm looking to put a switch that would cut power to the car when flipped and just make it hidden and am kind of thinking of getting a club. Wouldn't be hard to steal this thing if I relied on locks alone, so I just want to make it look as if it wouldn't be worth a persons time to steal and hopefully windows won't get smashed etc.

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I gotta get this thing stripped and painted somehow this summer rattle can paint over rattle can paint over stock paint is chipping to bare metal, that is no bueno in Oregon.

 

And does anyone have a recommendation for repairing the dash pad or recovering it?

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To fix the dash

Take the dash out and rip all the cracked viynl off, down to bare metal. Go to a fabric shop and get marine grade viynl, because its got stretch to it and some high density thin foam. After the old foam is all scrapped off, your gonna notice that the front lip that the dash had was part of the old foam.....dont worry about it. At this point you can decide if you want that lip to over hang lke stock or just have it flush with the face of the dash. Both ways look good. I choose to recreate the lip by taking a piece of wood and fastening it to the metal dash pad frame. Sprayed the entire thing with some good upholstery tack spray. Layed the foam and then same with the material, pulling it tight and working it flat. I could have taken more time on mine but I did it on the kitchen counter :)

 

Or find a 520 metal Dash top and paint it...that looks better

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Now you have a dash to recover, and then it can be installed with a minimum of down time, I use the club on all my older collecter vehicles, but really it is just to keep honest people honest, if they want it, it won't take long. You can hotwire most of the 521s and start them in about a minute or less with practice, I put 720 locking columns in all my 521s, it isn't going to stop them either if they want it, slows them down maybe half a minute if that, the only way your going to stop them is if you take something out like the rotor, as long as they don't know that it's missing. Now you have the parts to kingcab your truck if you want,:lol: :lol: just joking. Are you going to sell anything off it? wayno

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My neighbor is going to help me make a lock for my pedals he says its what alot of the Toyota 4x4ers do. It will be pretty much impossible to cut out with anything other than a sawsall or air cut off wheel.

 

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Modeled basically like this, the locks will be near impossible to get to with a bolt cutter and the thing will fit tight so it wont slide up and down the pedal arms.

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EI dizzy is in

 

I had to drop the oil pump the spindle was perpendicular to the 11:28 position and I ended up having to move it 2 notches. We timed it to 12 deg advanced, runs 1000000000 times better now. I guess the old coil connections were jacked up and very lose which was one of the problems i had with the old distributor so with the new one I made sure connections were clean and tight. The truck now starts and idles while cold no problem (probably still runs a bit rich need to adjust carb and regap plugs), there is no hesitation which I had randomly at all RPMs, I can actually go slow and not have to rev it all the time to keep the motor running and taking off from idle is now very smooth.

 

While a lot of my problems came from loose connections and the spindle being in the wrong position which made it impossible to properly time, going through the process of replacing the dizzy is what allowed me to find and correct those problems and improve how the truck runs even further.

 

Thank you for the help all!!

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New exhaust is in, went up to exhaust specialties payed more than I planned but they did a fairly nice job for the price IMO. New lifetime warrenty magnaflow 18" muffler + collector fabbed up, 2" pipe routed very nicely for 325 total. I'll have pics in the AM when it is light out.

 

Here are some pics of what I took out of the truck.

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It was flattened in some spots and attached together with machine screws that went through those little holes. The new exhaust is impossible to get pics of with out jacking it up so I'll try and get some snapped next time I need to do that.

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I wish I had a good camera, the motor that was in this thing is 10x worse than I thought it would be. The 210 head was shaved until the bottom of the 2 was gone, the car ended up having a blown head gasket (which caused the worse than normal running) pulled the head off to find every hole with nice vertical gouges. I love people who feel the insistent urge to screw others over.

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