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skyblue

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Those so's are runners! Suzuki did it right when they built those engines. Had a TLR 1000 for a couple years and it was awesome. Welcome to the two wheel club. Just be safe down there, cause all the other idiots will be gunning for ya! Nice score!!

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Those so's are runners! Suzuki did it right when they built those engines. Had a TLR 1000 for a couple years and it was awesome. Welcome to the two wheel club. Just be safe down there, cause all the other idiots will be gunning for ya! Nice score!!

thanks. yea I love it so far. 

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  • 2 months later...

Calling all Datsun mechanic gurus!!

 

Went to try and adjust the valves on thursday last week and ran into a problem i have never encountered. I had the adjuster all the way loose on the exhaust valves on cylinder 1 and 3, but i couldn't get the correct feeler gauge in there. In fact, cylinder 1 i could only fit a .008 and in cylinder 3 I could only fit a .003. 2 and 4 were no problem. 

 

Anyone have any thoughts? I had the head rebuilt about 4 years ago with all new nickel seats and 2 valves replaced. it's really confusing.

 

B8BD680A-E82A-42D0-A097-D5AA7AE4ECD9_zps

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Maybe the seat sank(unlikely) or if you had a valve job done, they may have shaved a bit too much or cut the valves a little too much. Carbon build up on valves or seat? Never see that much, but could happen. You could always shave the valve shanks a little to fit. Just an idea, but you'll have to pull the head. Gotta be a mechanical issue though to happen on more than one valve. Let us know what you find.

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I don't know what nickel seats are, but when I have a head done, I have hardened seats installed.

It sounds like your running out of adjustment because the valves are sinking into the head, you have your foot deep into the pedal all the time?

My machinist suggested if I kept my foot out of it I might not have the problem, I suggested that the head needed hardened seats, I won that argument, the head got the proper seats and I didn't have that issue again.

 

To get the clearance you need you can take the middle big nut off and shave it a little to get the clearance you need, as that will let the adjustment post go a little lower, but this is a temp fix.

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As I said earlier, to get by you can grind a little bit off the top of the set nut, that will give you a little more adjustment till you have another head ready to go if you are going with another head, it would likely buy you a few months at least, if not longer.

How does that guy come off? Do I need to take out the cam to take off the rocker?

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Since you have run out of clearance, you may have to somehow push the valve down to remove the rocker arm.

Then you loosen the set/lock nut, then unscrew the threaded shaft out of the head, spin the nut off and grind/cut some of it off the top of the nut as the bottom has to be flat, then reverse removal procedure to put back together, before putting rocker back in make sure that the adjustment shaft goes farther in insuring you have enough to work with, then buy new head and rebuild ASAP.

I have never done this before myself, I heard folks cut the nut in half, but it would seem to me that only a 1/16th inch off the top would give one enough time to find and rebuild a new head properly with hardened seats.

What head do you have now?

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i currently have an A87 head, non peanut, in there. But, i will most likely use the 210 head from busta nut's original 510 engine since he blew it up! lol

 

No, you do want to use a 210 head, the odds are your intake ports on your intake manifold are larger than the 210 head intake ports, that is a big problem as the air will have to get by a step to get into the head ports, forget the 210 head.

Find another A87 or better yet a U67, it has big valves and ports, but you may have to drill the coolant passages in it., otherwise rebuild yours.

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