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it will die after ten minutes of running


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the fuel pump was leaking bad so i replaced it now after it runs for about ten minutes it will die and it will crank but wont start, but i can go back out there in a couple of hours and it fires right back up, but it will die again. whats wrong? has anybody ever heard of this before?

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Had something similar long ago. These cars are old, and the fuel lines get soft. They suck down and shut off fuel flow and after they sit open up a little and then the car will run again for awhile. Just something to look at also.

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This only happen after you swap the fuel pump? put the old leaky one back on and see if changes. then I think a fuel pressure peoplem(Ok Im only guess n but you said thats the only thing was changed)

 

 

maybe float bowl needle is slightly sticky then it runs out of gas in carb?

 

ck coil as other said if hot add a ballast resisitor in series like .7 ohms or so and see if that helps.

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ok im back, i didnt mention i replaced the starter cause i didnt think it would be factor, but i went back and fired it up drove it around the block a couple of times and then parked it.

 

first thing- it wants to die when i dont give it gas when in gear, but when its parked it idles rough but doesnt seem to want to die as much

 

- and btw it was doing this before i changed the fuel pump

 

- the coil isnt geting hot

 

-when i parked it and turned it off then tried to crank it back over to see if it would start back up it wasnt wanting to like it has been doing until i pressed the gas peddle all the way down

 

-i havent check the plugs yet but i will after i eat

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-when i parked it and turned it off then tried to crank it back over to see if it would start back up it wasnt wanting to like it has been doing until i pressed the gas peddle all the way down

 

-i havent check the plugs yet but i will after i eat

 

Now sounds like the choke isn't coming off or the carb is flooding slightly. When you hold the gas down you engage the choke unloader which opens the choke and or gives it lots of air to overcome a rich start.

 

When idling check the fuel level in the carb. Normal or high???

 

Is the choke fully open when warmed up???

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it's an adjust ment thing. If you fuel line in the window is off bubble you'll need to adjust the floats. If your choke is sticking it could be bound linkage or it could be out of adjustment. Have you picked up a manual for this car yet?

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mike- so just look through the window on the carb, and if not normal, how do i fix my choke from sticking if thats my problem?

 

HRH-wouldnt i hear gargleing in the gas tank if i hook the lines up backwards?

 

 

It depends. You should, but I've seen mechanical pumps do weird things before. I'd go more towards the sight bowl or something else. Or possibly a plugged return backing up into the carb. Usually not an issue though.

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If you're running a return line to the tank, check and make sure it's not clogged, as pressure would build up and then back feed into the carb. Easy way to tell. Locate the return, disconnect and run into a glass jar or something via a length of tube, then start and see if it continues running. Or just wait until it dies then disconnect line and see if there's a whole lot of pressure behind it. Wear goggles, it'll spray if there is.

 

I doubt it's that, but just something easy to check.

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oh and another thing, last night i drove it around the neighborhood and noticed it boggs and wont get anymore power around 35 miles an hour. and i think i need to change the alternator because i just got the battery charged 2 days ago and when i parked it last night and tried to start it up right after i turned it off it was cranking really slow and my head lights were going off when i turned the key.

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The return line already has a restriction in it or the gas would simply go past the carb and back into the tank. It's simply a pin hole to allow some circulation of cooler fuel.

 

fuelreturn002Large-1.jpg

 

 

 

oh and another thing, last night i drove it around the neighborhood and noticed it boggs and wont get anymore power around 35 miles an hour.

 

I forget. Is this a stock Hitachi carb?

 

 

and i think i need to change the alternator because i just got the battery charged 2 days ago and when i parked it last night and tried to start it up right after i turned it off it was cranking really slow and my head lights were going off when i turned the key.

 

Get a cheap ass Chinese made multi meter usually less than $10, you should have one anyway. Check the battery voltage when running: should be about 14 volts. If not, then, it's time to check a few things. You have a one in 4 chance of being correct and it's the alternator. Don't throw money at this, figure out what needs replacing. Could be the regulator, bad battery cable (loose), bad starter.

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Like I said, make sure you got suck/blow/return in the correct order. Mechanical pumps with three outlets can do weird things. Or the pump could be bad out of the box too. Or wrong armature, or your cam is loose if it is on the camshaft nose. Unless it's on the block where it runs off the camshaft directly as in push rod 4.

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