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Thailand V8 Datsun 620 Build


Lok

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I love seeing all the Datsun Thailand trucks, you guys have some beauties. :lol:

 

 

Yeah i agree. but i have to say there are alot of parts available, especially when i met this Thai group, made my parts sourcing easier and alot cheaper; thanks to them, can see alot of beauties around.

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:lol: damnnnnnnnnn! you chaps are my heroes! bloody nuts you lot are!

 

the UZ is a killer choice, difficult one though as youve shown! the engine in the 720 is a 1JZGTE ;) GE = NA, looks like it came out of a toyota chaser? makes me smile just hearing you talk of it!

 

a 5speed conversion will open up the UZ heaps, specially in a chassis as light as the 620! that auto is an A341E, reallllyyy tall first gear which is great for comfort and keeping it smooth to cruise around, but doesnt help when you really want to get moving. ive got the same but in a much much heavier car (over twice the 620) so im sure its plenty fun as it is :D you'd get away with a cheaper W58 if you were thinking manual some day

 

 

 

Gary,

 

Thanks for the nuts, i knew i was there when i loved both the 1UZ and Dat 620.

 

i know and heard about the W58 manual conversion, killer that is but step by step and see how it runs in the auto first as i want a lazy torquey cruiser for now.

with the 3.55 end ratio, i am thinking of 100km/h cruise would be at just 1800-1900 rpm and not too spinny at acceleration. so by the time i use up the revs i don't know how fast it will hit (240+++ kp/h at least!). the main problem now is getting the power down to the wheels as it's got one light ass. (forgot to mention i did a bit of manual porting to the intake and exhuast for a smoother flow.) biggrin.gif

 

hopefully the whole project will not go over 1,400kgs including me (178cm and 83kgs) to make it a good kicker.

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Here comes a luxury, a power steering added from Mistubishi.

 

after installation, here comes a problem, the exhaust ports just left me around 3.5 inch gaps between the chassis to do the manifolds. but this left me with less than 3 inches . i'll have to think about lowering or raising the engine or see if the master header can get around it ( lets hope he can).

 

only got 1 pic, i know its not so clear.

 

P1000833.jpg

 

 

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Wow impressive. I have never seen it done, and think it is cool you went with a Japanese V8. Only thing that would have been cooler is a Toyota Hemi! (Or maybe a Nissan Y44- but only from a brand/nostalgia point of view. Not performance.)

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I wanna see a Pic when u get them headers on, Hmm. Looks tight around the sides. I had a problem with my L320 when I had a Rotary in it with the header not fitting cause it was so close to the sides. Very Cool Project, and those Toyota V8's sound real bad ass when you open em Up!! :D

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Wow impressive. I have never seen it done, and think it is cool you went with a Japanese V8. Only thing that would have been cooler is a Toyota Hemi! (Or maybe a Nissan Y44- but only from a brand/nostalgia point of view. Not performance.)

 

 

Fisch,

 

Thanks.

 

what is a Toyota Hemi? never heard of.

 

at the beginning i was wanting to keep the pedigree to Nissan, like, engine, brakes, etc. but then came the love of the 1UZ, dimensions of the chassis, parts availability and durabilty, etc. so now its like a mongrel hybrid hehe, have to find whats best , fixable, and replaceable in the future.

ultimately, i want to keep the exterior as Datsun as possible with a menacing retro look, with the rest durable, comfortable, and driveable.

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I wanna see a Pic when u get them headers on, Hmm. Looks tight around the sides. I had a problem with my L320 when I had a Rotary in it with the header not fitting cause it was so close to the sides. Very Cool Project, and those Toyota V8's sound real bad ass when you open em Up!! :D

 

 

Mini-L320,

 

yeah its real tight, its a big headache at the moment cause the header guy haven't seen it yet. even with the new chassis with extra 2" wider clearance on both sides compared to the original Datsun Chassis and with no torsion bars as well, still cannot fully clear it.

 

the header for each piston is 2.25" and needs at least another 2" of bending or cornering space. so far i couldn't get around it.

so far i could only think of 3 things:

 

1. the header dude is bloody good and can make the bend utlra slim.

2. i have to expand the chassis to give clearance by cutting and welding. (don't want to do it cause any degree will effect the driveability of the truck at speed, let alone safety.)

3. raise the engine height about 3" to be on top of the chassis and let the headers go underneath. (stability compromised)

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as may have been hinted from the previous pics. the seats.

 

this is true personal preference and a jump. they are BMW E36 Coupe M Sport 5 point adjustable seats. i really liked the original bench seats but i know they couldn't handle me with this performance and long distance cruising. so i had to use the next best thing. tongue.gif

P1000337.jpg

 

P1000336.jpg

they will be wrapped in leather at the end. something like the below color i had in mind.

leatherseatcolor.jpg

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Mini-L320,

 

got another pic on the spaces available. looks a bit bigger than the real view.

 

but i will re-mould the engine bay again, get more space for cooling, battery, radiator spacing as i will use the engine's hydraulic fan instead of electric ones, as well as the what we Thai's call 2 layer brake pumps (black bowl looking) from a Nissan which takes up some space.

P1000831.jpg

P1000830.jpg

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2eDeYe' date='31 January 2011 - 01:11 AM' timestamp='1296411086' post='419695']

Most excellent thread, great parts swapping and a perfect dash. :cool:

 

 

2eDeYe,

 

Thanks.

 

We all in Thailand wished we have your versions of the King Cab, especially your nice looking matt black one. so so much envy. we only have one version, the low spec single cab, and if you noticed on my console, the left hand side is a hole, in Thailand its covered with a Datsun plastic logo whilst you guys got the clock or RPM meter if i'm not wrong. the clock is a very much sought after item here. but for my case i will need a RPM meter there.biggrin.gif

 

without the King cab here in Thailand, next bit of metal work finesse for me............ extending the rear window outwards a bit for the seat to recline a bit further back.

 

more updates coming soon. night for now.

 

before leaving, a pic of a really nice everything original 620 with just the rims changed. the inspiration to make me start this project. (don't know this owner but a member in the www.datsun-thailand.com , hope he doesn't mind me posting this as well)

verynice620.jpg

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i know and heard about the W58 manual conversion, killer that is but step by step and see how it runs in the auto first as i want a lazy torquey cruiser for now.

with the 3.55 end ratio, i am thinking of 100km/h cruise would be at just 1800-1900 rpm and not too spinny at acceleration. so by the time i use up the revs i don't know how fast it will hit (240+++ kp/h at least!)

sounds good! my car has a 3.62 rear end (i think) and cruises at 1200rpm or so at 100k's to give you an idea of what yours will be like, theres a 180km/hr speed cut if you're using stock ECM from an import halfcut, gets there very quickly :( theres a couple little things you can get to get around that though

 

its a big headache at the moment cause the header guy haven't seen it yet

should be right making block huggers (little hard to tell from pics), theyre not ideal but such a tight bend so close to the ports isnt actually that bad a problem, just off the ports will obviously be a very high pressure/heat area, thanks to the heat, the exhaust gas can navigate fairly sharp bends without great loss in flow. becomes a different story further down the system though

 

good luck with it and more picsssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss

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sounds good! my car has a 3.62 rear end (i think) and cruises at 1200rpm or so at 100k's to give you an idea of what yours will be like, theres a 180km/hr speed cut if you're using stock ECM from an import halfcut, gets there very quickly :( theres a couple little things you can get to get around that though

 

 

should be right making block huggers (little hard to tell from pics), theyre not ideal but such a tight bend so close to the ports isnt actually that bad a problem, just off the ports will obviously be a very high pressure/heat area, thanks to the heat, the exhaust gas can navigate fairly sharp bends without great loss in flow. becomes a different story further down the system though

 

good luck with it and more picsssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss

 

Gary,

 

can't wait to really check out the cruising speed and the fun from the kickdowns when its done, hopfully will feel like a brawny go kart. at least feel safe from having a limited slip too on the roads.

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Up next the rear windows.

i got a bit of a little belly and the single cab really gets my back straight and the sun burning on my neck. so after discussing the metalworks with my metal Ninja, we will extend the windows out by 3 inches to give my seat a bit more reclining angle as well as a neck shade.

At first i thought it would look ugly, but since there is a semi-ish roll bar from the truck bed help covering, it doesn't look bad and gets covered quite nicely.

 

rear view with the water channel slit still intact, note the roll bar cut out for the operation.

 

P1000331.jpg

 

semi side angle.

P1000341.jpg

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Are you going to clean up the welds and smooth out the back window a bit more, or this going to be a rat truck?

 

 

I like your console, the wood looks nice

 

Thanks.

when the whole bodywork is done, all welds will be smoothed out and have a glass finish. i got a weak spot for clean looking cars.

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