Eric Garside Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 I had a tick in my engine (L18) when I bought my truck (78 620) and I thought it was the timing chain slapping around but upon further inspection I found that the rocker arm for the intake valve on number 1 was slapping on the cam because the valve is stuck open. What would cause the valve to stick open like that? Is this camshaft worth purchasing, is it any different than the stock one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-510-L16-L18-L20B-NISMO-L9-CAMSHAFT-NEW-/270696593857?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f06c639c1#ht_500wt_1182 Thanks, Eric Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 It may not be stuck open, you may simply have too much clearance between the rocker arm and the cam. This can be adjusted. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/16539-l-series-valve-adjustment/ Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/mklotz70/How%20to/Valve%20adjust/ Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Thanks for the link but I am 99% sure that the valve is stuck down. When I popped the valve cover the retainer clip to hold the rocker in place was off and the rocker not seated properly. The top of the valve is also noticeably lower than all the rest and there is not enough adjustment to make the arm touch the heal of the lobe. I will try to get pictures when I get a chance. Thanks, Eric Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 oh, and it runs really crappy. It wont even idle. Kinda like its not running on all cylinders Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 OK then. A stuck intake wouldn't run. A stuck exhaust would have a dead cylinder. Two possibilities. The valve is bent. Severe over revving can do this or having the head off and moving the cam and then tightening the head on with a valve open with a piston at TDC. It's possible that a replacement valve could save this. The valve isn't bent but the valve seat has popped out of the head and the valve is (not) closing against it. Either a crappy valve job was done or the motor was severely over heated and it came out. With the valve hammering the seat into the head it is probably beyond saving. Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Thanks, I will hopefully be tearing the head off this weekend and Ill post pics then. What do you think about the cam I posted? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Pretty sure with .490 lift you will need different springs as the stock ones will bind. Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Does anyone know where I can source internals and head parts for my l18? What kind of springs would I need to run with that cam and would it be too aggressive for an engine without a built bottom end? Thanks, Eric Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Even with multiple carbs you won't make enough power to bother a stock L18 bottom end. Quote Link to comment
mike Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Hey man, check your email, CALL ME :lol: If it will make it to spokane we can have her all fixed up in a couple hours, get an oil filter, 5 quarts of 10W30 (not synthetic) and a gallon of unmixed antifreeze. If youre looking for power youre going to spend a shitload more on building a fast L than you will swapping a KA, and you would enjoy driving it more when youre done. If youve got it in your head to build a sweet L motor for a truck find a Z22 (look for an aluminum valve cover on a Z motor in the yards) and buy just the shortblock (or as much as you can get without them charging you for all the accessories that you wont use. Youve already got the rest of the parts to put it together on the L20... Its seriously the best bang for the buck, and if you find one in good shape youll have a motor that will beat the snot out of an L18 street motor for a couple hundred bucks tops. Ill take you for a ride in the goon and/or let you drive it and youll be sold. If youve just got to spend some money on it get some drop spindles for a hardbody :cool: They will cost you less than having a decent head built or building one and they will make that thing a hell of a lot nicer to drive and youll get better brakes at the same time. Hang onto the L18 for a car though... or if I find a solid 1200 or B210GX sell it back to me :) Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Too late mike, I already bought a cam and springs but oh well. I did pull a good (looks freshly rebuilt) U67 head at the yard today and it will be going on in the next few days. I bought some coil over brackets from BeeBani so now I just need to find a good deal on some coil overs. I do still need to get those gaskets from you tho. Ill stay in touch, maybe we can pull that 20 this weekend. Eric Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Im in the process of putting the new head on (oic's coming tomorrow) and I havent got my haynes manual in the mail yet. What are the torque specs and order of torque on the L18 with an U67 head? Eric Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 R A D 7.... 8 3.... 4 1.... 2 5.... 6 9... 10 Torque to 20 ft. lbs in the above sequence Torque to 40 ft. lbs in the above sequence Torque to 60 ft. lbs in the above sequence Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Thanks Mike. Here are some pics of the #1 intake valve that indeed was stuck down. And some oic's of my truck just for fun And after my first trip to the local "pull a part" Does anyone have a link or info on how the timing marks are supposed to line up? Like I said, I haven't received my haynes yet and I might be crazy but I cant figure it out..... Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Also, what size are those stupid allen head bolts? I've tried metric and standard and nothing I have seems to fit right. Thanks, Eric Quote Link to comment
Jersey Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 It has been a while since I've had the head off, however, I believe you will need a 10MM allen socket. Quote Link to comment
RedSquare Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Also, what size are those stupid allen head bolts? I've tried metric and standard and nothing I have seems to fit right. Thanks, Eric What kinda are those black & yellow wheels? Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Does anyone have a link or info on how the timing marks are supposed to line up? Like I said, I haven't received my haynes yet and I might be crazy but I cant figure it out..... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 the valve seat popped out. have to take to machine shop or best and EZest is get another complete head olddatsuns.com has the vid link in the tech section. if you want them all instead of clicking all these vid links here. Nice truck Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 What kinda are those black & yellow wheels? Im not sure they were on the truck when I bought it. There is a nascar sticker on the wheel but I will see if I can find the brand for you..... Or I would be willing to trade for a nice set of 15" turbines Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Thanks for the links. Good info!! Quote Link to comment
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