Jump to content

Anyone have HP numbers on their L series?


onedayjake

Recommended Posts

A couple weeks back I dynoed my 68 bone stock L16, 4 speed with weber 2bbl. It put down a whopping 54 rwhp and 90 for torque(on a Mustang dyno). Not much change with timing except some pinging so we backed it down. I have an L18 that I'd like to tear into this winter. I'm looking for input on what real world numbers you can get with what mods you have. I'm looking to get ~75-80 whp. Is that feasible with a mild cam, mild porting on the head(A87) and header/exhaust? I'm also planning on ditching the carb for fuel injection. I want to keep it old school and stay with the L series motor.

Link to comment
  • Replies 37
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Engines used to be measured at the crank (sometimes without water pump, alt., power steering pumps fitted to get the numbers 'up there') and of course the numbers were much higher. Now it is measured at the rear wheels.

 

That's probably about right for an old L16. New or fresh would be 60-65 hp. An L18 about 10 more and an L20B another 10 or so above the L18. Give or take. Spend the money on rebuilding an L20B. It should meet your requirements without any mods. With a good cam and and head/ intake you should get 100 ponies. Forget the header an keep and use the L16/18 exhaust manifold. It's that good you won't notice any difference except that your wallet will be a lot lighter. Don't go bigger than 2" exhaust pipe.

Link to comment

Clayton this sounds very believable.

 

ummm... is that sarcasm or are you being honest Mike...LOL

 

kinda hard to judge by the tone of your typing HAHAHA :lol:

 

Just givin ya a hard time!

 

I know the fuel injected L18 Derek over on the realm had Troy build felt fast it never to my knowledge got dynoed but by the seat of the pants dyno it felt quick and made the car fun to drive even with the added weight of the jungle gym of a roll cage he had installed for when he did the Targa Newfoundland Rally

 

Clayton

Link to comment

 

ummm... is that sarcasm or are you being honest Mike...LOL

 

kinda hard to judge by the tone of your typing HAHAHA :lol:

 

Clayton

 

:D Naw, I hate seeing high numbers that aren't supported by the build parts. Or a dyno sheet. Yours was very believable.

Link to comment

I was thinking I have some hp too.. I built a l21/22 kind of lol its a stock l20b bored 30 over and a z22 crank with flat top pistons and an a87 ported and polished head with a 280/480 lift cam need to get my weber on it and my intake is ported to its just running stock carb but god damn it moves like crazy... Still got to put my 5 speed in it to.. I would really like to run 1/4 and see what it would pull...

Link to comment

I was thinking I have some hp too.. I built a l21/22 kind of lol its a stock l20b bored 30 over and a z22 crank with flat top pistons and an a87 ported and polished head with a 280/480 lift cam need to get my weber on it and my intake is ported to its just running stock carb but god damn it moves like crazy... Still got to put my 5 speed in it to.. I would really like to run 1/4 and see what it would pull...

 

Yummy. :cool:

Link to comment

I was thinking I have some hp too.. I built a l21/22 kind of lol its a stock l20b bored 30 over and a z22 crank with flat top pistons and an a87 ported and polished head with a 280/480 lift cam need to get my weber on it and my intake is ported to its just running stock carb but god damn it moves like crazy... Still got to put my 5 speed in it to.. I would really like to run 1/4 and see what it would pull...

 

So basically a slightly small Z22 with flattops and L head with cam. Probably close to 120 rwhp. The small stock carb probably gives it great mid range torque and that's what you feel. Byron on the realm has an LZ22 with hairy cam and with dual side drafts realized 132 RWHP and another 6 hp with EFI.

 

DynoRun2007ByronsLZ22.jpg

Link to comment

z24 stock bottom end, stock dish piston, i think 8.4 compression, mild street schneider cam, mild head porting, header, 2" exhaust, 13* advanced timing, weber 32/36 dgev....

115 hp 130 lb ft torque...... still feels not as fast as i want because of 3.70 rear end gears....

Link to comment

Hey, I have 40+ dyno jet sheets. Most of my 2.3 L-series on pump gas, 10-1 comp, around .500 lift cam, very little port work, dual 44mm mikuni's, comp header, and elect ignition make 150hp and 150ft torque at the rear wheels. I built a 2.2 for Clayton's girl that makes 155 and the .080 over l20b that just went to mexico for the La Carrera rally won two, finished second twice out of the six day race, made 147hp on pump gas. If you check out my you-tube dyno of my full race L-18 it made over 175 on a 100 degree day. Just throwing my numbers out there......Troy Ermish

Link to comment

I don't know much about HP but am curious what you guys think the LZ22 in my 510 might put down? Here are the specs. Like 115-120 at the crank?

 

How much difference would the bigger 46mm Z-Therapy carbs make?

 

 

Engine specs:

Oil Pan: Stock Datsun 510 L16

Block: Z22S Truck, bored .020 over, decked .005, honed for moly rings, all galleys tapped and plugged, oil dipstick relocated to passenger side, oil jet drilled to .110, chain guide holes retapped to accept 8mm bolts

Crank: Z22S Truck, rods and mains turned .010 and micro-polished

Rods: Z22S Truck, ARP rod bolts, resized big ends, balanced

Bearings: Federal Mogul

Pistons: Z22S Truck, NAPA replacement (cast) machined to flattops, polished, balanced

Rings: TotalSeal Moly Faced, zero gap second ring, hand filed top gap

Timing Cover: L20 Truck

Oil Pump: Nissan 280ZX

Front Pully: NAPZ24 Truck

Flywheel: Z24 Truck, 18#, used with Z22S 225mm clutch

Water Pump: NAPZ24, with 4 blade plastic fan

Distributor: A15 electronic, modified with ball bearing shaft and recurved for 14 degrees mechanical and 10 degrees vacuum advance

Oil Pump Drive: L20

Head Gasket: NISMO Competition

Head Studs: ARP

Head: W53 closed chamber, mild valve unshrouding, venturi pocket porting, new spiral groove cast iron guides, new intake seats, intake and exhaust valve tips height equalized, 3 angle valve job hand blended

transitions. Intake ports gasket matched to 1.50” blended into stock 1.25 dia port. Intake ports and chambers equalized and cc’d. Oil passage blended to match block jet outlet location. Shaved .015 on the bottom and .017 on the top, Goodson .015 thick cam tower shims.

Valves: Manley Severe Duty stainless, flow relieved chrome stems, swirl polished, back cut radiused intake profile. 44mm intake, 35mm exhaust

Valve Seals: Felpro Viton

Springs: Norris 120# seat pressure at 1.60”

Retainers: L18, stock

Keepers: modified Chrysler Hemi

Lash Pads: Top End Performance, .210 -.240 high

Rockers: Hand selected for best valve stem tip alignment

Cam: DAMB grind, on a U20 L18 core 520L/268D measured at .025 lift, zero lash. Drilled and tapped cam rear for 3/8NPT plug

Cam Towers: 260Z with modified internal spray bar

Intake: Datsun SSS 1.50 runners with dry water passages

Carb Spacers: 3/4 thick epoxied marine plywood blended from 46mm to 38mm

Carbs: Z-Therapy Hitachi Z-car SU roundtops, with modified Z car airbox (integral air horns)

Plugs: NKG BPR6ES

Wires: Accel 8mm

Exhaust: NISMO header, O2 sensor, pan-evac scavenge system, 2" exhaust pipe

Fuel Pump: Nissan mechanical

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.