Fisch's '71 510 LZ22 - "Chapman" Fogs and Bre Spook+art

[fisch]

Crank case definitely needs to be vented, filter on the valve cover, and PVC hooked to intake manifold. Good air in, bad out! :thumbup:

I guess right now and for many years, it is just venting out the valve cover.

[Sealik]

The latest discovery. I don't think I have a fast idle screw. It appears my intake does not use the stock K14 linkage at all! Just a cable stop attached to it. So it must be using a modified 240Z shaft linkage, and nothing else.

 

Ya... the idle is set when the carbs are balanced.

Might want to consider an upper heat shield.....?

I made one for my LZ. I also have one down below where I mounted the throttle cable.

 

 

 

PVC on K14

[fisch]

Nice heatshield Sealik! Clean motor! OK I thought the PVC went to the bottom of the manifold. This looks more convenient for routing for sure. I thought it was that plug on the bottom of the manifold.

 

Well while I had the floats I figured I should check the little 'last-chance' filters in the inlet banjo bolts.

 

The front one that was overflowing didn't look to bad. But the rear? Ewwwww that is nasty. Yet it was the better behaved carb. And this is after I'd sprayed carb cleaner down there.

 

Rear=Ewwwww

 

Front= eh could be worse. and this carb had no problem with gas (over)flow, lol!

[MicroMachinery]

Grodie.

[fisch]

Nothing too new to report as I am currently chained to the studio and can't get out to the garage. Deadlines. Anyhoo about the PVC I should guesses the PO had thought behind the omission. The line from the valve cover goes down to...

 

From Chris: "This is the nipple and check valve for the crankcase evacuation system. I also added a flange to the header. I am going to try running this system instead of a PCV system. Even with a restricted orifice, the previous PCV system was pulling oil into the intake and coking up my intake valves."

 

Beyond this, the floats are set per spec, and just need to go back in if I can pry myself from the studio. In the mean time I walk 5 feet from my art desk and grab some polish. I have half a mind to engrave them before putting them back on. However in two weeks Chapman HAS to be on the road as I will be commuting to teach an art workshop at Amherst College. And he is my only daily.

 

[Jester]

Dang, those look good. B) 

Only problem with polishing is there never seems to be a good place to stop.  :rofl:

[fisch]

Well if nothing else, they look prettier! I cleaned up the pistons/jets/body, and refilled the dashpot with ATF. I didn't have the right tubing to make a site tube so I don't know if the float levels are set properly, but everything looks better. Tomorrow I will track down some clear tubing and see what we can.

Before:

 

Spraypaint removed:

 

220 grit

 

400 grit all the way up to mothers mag and aluminum polish. Like 5 different abrasives.

 

THis took a couple hours all together, but time well spent. Though now the float covers and dashpots are like a diamond ring in a brown paperbag, lol.

 

 

Now we just cross our fingers they will work.

 

[Jester]

Though now the float covers and dashpots are like a diamond ring in a brown paperbag, lol.

 

 

:rofl:   I told you so! 

 

They look really good.

[MicroMachinery]

Looks baller. Now to see if she still floods.

[fisch]

Well how does the saying go, one step sideways five steps back? Something like that, at least today.

 

So Chapman has a Halmeter AF10 narrow band o2 gauge in there. THe little guy with the LED lights from lean to rich. But the o2 sensor hasn't worked since  sitting a long while.

 

So before I try to dial the carbs I thought I'd fix the o2 sensor to have something to look at. Yes I know it isn't anything compared to a wide band, but it is in there already.

 

Once i got the right wrench I backed the bugger out so I could ID it. Be nice to find a direct replacement. The PO couldn't remember what he got it from, so I searched the parts books at my local Napa, and BINGO it is from a mid 90s Saturn.

 

Problem is, thought the wrench worked, it took off almost all the threads on the sensor coming out, lol. So now I have thread in my pipe bung. WHich means I now have to remove that piece of exhaust pipe and chase the threads if they aren't too damaged or, if they are fried, get a new bung welded in. Which might be a good excuse to get the rest of the stuff I need to get my Hobart Handler 210 finally going!

 

Anyway, none of this is too hard. Heck it is just a one wire o2 sensor (yes i hear the heated ones are better, but I will stick with what I know worked for now.) But just when you think you are moving forward...

 

And the funny thing is I didn't need to do this to get it running. But I thought it might help for the next stage.

[mklotz70]

I do that kind of thing all the friggin' time!!!!  It looks like the sensor gave up the thread so you should be able to chase the hole.  Make sure to use high temp anti-seize when you put the new one in.  It should come with it pre-applied.

[fisch]

I do that kind of thing all the friggin' time!!!!  It looks like the sensor gave up the thread so you should be able to chase the hole.  Make sure to use high temp anti-seize when you put the new one in.  It should come with it pre-applied.

That is my hope mike. Hopefully I have the right tap or it is another trip to the store, lol. It never fails, I made no real progress yesterday, yet somehow managed to go to an auto store 3 times. I got the specialty tool to remove o2 sensors. The kind that looks like a wrench with an angled handle that pivots. I couldn't get it on there as the trans case was too close to the sensor. (Which is why an o2 socket won't work either.) Had to drive back to the store to get a standard 22mm open end wrench. I have a lot of wrenches, but of course, not the one I needed.

 

Anyway the proper o2 sensor should be in today, and I can start moving forward, if this pesky thing called 'real-work' would stop getting in the way. Crossing fingers I don't strip or break anything else getting this exhaust piece out.

[Charlie69]

Get your welder hooked up so you can advance your art skills in steel!  Owning a Datsun is educational!  LOL

[]2eDeYe]

If it's not the first thing, it'll be the next thing :lol: 

[fisch]

Success! Funny, but it took a week of collecting parts, multiple trips to the auto store, and then finally yesterday it all came together. On my brief test drive, I can say Chapman ran the best he ever has for me.

 

First I fixed the EGT gauge. It is a dual needle unit with a thermocoupler in the 1 and 4 header tube. This way you can see if both carbs are the same temperature. And there fore whether one is richer or leaner than the other.

 

THe thermo couplers are attached to the exhaust by drilling a hole in the header and simply inserting the sensor and clamping it down with the clamp.

You can see the band down below the intake in this shot.

 

Next to fix the o2 sensor, which if you recall I'd stripped the thread off of inside the bung, which had been welded to the glasspack. Bought the correct thread chaser/tap from autozone, dropped the exhaust (easy because the next section is a flex tube. So it just angled nicely down.

 

That bugger is in! Took me a while to find out what junkyard doner the original o2 came from, but it was a late 90s saturn.

 

But man that glasspack had gotten a bit of surface rust so I couldn't put it back like that, so out came the VHT header paint. SO I could make my own Cherry Bomb, lol.

 

Napa had no match for the header to glasspack exhaust gasket, so I made one. What a pain to cut this stuff as there is metal between the cardboard. The first hole I drilled sucked, so I moved over the the scroll saw, and slowly that did the job.

 

Done

 

Finally the car was back down on all wheels and I could set the floats. I used the plastic tube off the outlet. You measure 23mm from the lid seam, make a mark on the bowl, and the level when you hold the tube next to it should be even with the mark. Pretty darn close.

 

Rear

 

Front

 

Then there was a ton of twiddling screws and nuts and using the Uni-synch. But we dialed it in! Took it for a test drive and it was awesome.

 

I took a movie, but it is a .mov and photobucket doesn't seem to want ot host it. If I figure out a way I will post it.

 

In the meantime to celebrate I put the Draglite rims on it, BUT the rears don't fit! I need at least a 5/16 spacer, but I don't know that that will do for fender clearance. They are fine on the wagon with the live axle. Grrrr....

[fisch]

Video!

http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Fischart/media/My%20Datsun%20510/IMG_2276.mp4.html

[MicroMachinery]

Excellent..

[Skib]

[goes2fast]

Video!

http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Fischart/media/My%20Datsun%20510/IMG_2276.mp4.html

Sounds bad ass! :thumbup:

[fisch]

OK so I got in the car after it sat for a week and noticed the brake pedal was soft. Pulled into a gas station, and the rear cup on the MC was low, topped it off with some Dot3. Car will still stop but I took it pretty easy.

 

So I am not use to dual MC's. If the back cup is low, and the front cup is fine, does that mean I have a leak in my rear drums most likely? I see no leaks in the ground and no squirts under the hood.

 

Does anyone make a prebent total brake line replacement for the 510? Not a big deal to bend my own, but a lot less downtime if there is a kit out there.

[Skib]

have you looked up under the dash at the inside of the firewall?
make sure the master itself isnt leaking from the cup seal.

with the firewall padding/carpet thats usually up there its easy for that to leak and not be noticed.

 

[tr8er]

Pre-bent would be hard to ship. Most likely not a line though. Is there a soft line at the rear differential on sedans? Check that, the drums, and the master first. Fortunately fluid leaks are generally easy to find.

[mklotz70]

If you look on either side of the m/c, you should find an "F" and an "R" denoting the front circuit and the rear circuit.  That will tell you which is which on the m/c.  You'll also want to trace the lines from the m/c and make sure that the one from the "F" output is actually going to the front brakes.  If the reservoirs are two different sizes, the larger one should be to the front circuit since they're disc.  Datsun made m/c's that look the same, but the F/R changed positiongs.......so it's possible for someone to put another m/c in that has swapped positions.  I doubt this has happened in your case, but it's something to look out for.

[fisch]

Realized I never updated this with wheel pics!  14X6 and 14X6.5 Devil Japan Shadow wheels. I LOVE them, however the new General tires were about impossible for the shop to balance, so there is some annoying vibration in the steering wheel. But it is weird because some times it is not there and sometimes it is. And it seems to come on randomly. But it never vibrated before the wheel swap.

 

I Just drove it on my longest ride to date. About 200 miles on the freeway. It was awesome, and I got the thumbs up on the freeway for sure. Most folks in New England haven't seen a 510 in 30 years.

 

Also I finally got the camo paint off the roof, but haven't taken a new pic yet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Lockleaf]

Those rims are bitchin sir.