My Swiss 1972 S30 240Z rebuild project

[Dat510z]

Great Thread, one of my favorite to follow.  

 

I noticed you show urethane bushing on both front and rear positions of the T/C rods.  

 

At least here in the States, myself and others have experienced bending and breakage of the T/C rods, when using urethane bushings in both the tension and compression positions.  ( In my case on a 510.)  Dual urethane bushings make the joint so stiff it forces energy into the TC rod, causing to bend.

 

In my case replacing the Rear bushing (rear in relation to the car) with a factory Rubber bushings allowed the joint to flex enough without bending the rod, while still gaining the advantage of more stable wheel positioning.  Other solutions I've seen has been drill holes radially in to the compressing bushing to allow more compression of the bushing.  

 

Given the 240Z has rear facing TC rods, I would think you would want the Front Bushing to be urethane and the Tension Bushing (rear) to be Rubber, (Opposite the 510) 

 

Just thought I'd pass the info along.  I'd hate to see this beautiful Z you are building, damaged for any reason.

[JDMjunkies.ch]

thanks for the input, got the same feedback in another forum as well. will definitely think about it and most probably go for the 50/50 setup...
So the compression bushing would be the front one in the Z, right? (the t/c rods facing rearwards)

[Dat510z]

Yes, on the Z the urethane bushing would be in the "front" position, to limit the rear-ward movement of the wheel under heavy braking and/or suspension movement.  

 

There's also "old school" T/C Kit, which used a Delrin and Aluminum cup type "ball pivot" design to replace the "Front Position" Bushings.  I still use that style on some of my cars.  Experimental Engineering reproduced them using a UHMWPE for the Ball instead of the Delrin (which was more susceptible to degradation).  Carter B. used to be the distributor for Experimental Engineering. 

 

[JDMjunkies.ch]

Hmm in this thread, someone says to use the poly front and the rubber rear:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/44860-my-two-swiss-s30z-fairlady-restoration-build-thread/?page=18&tab=comments#comment-541855

Not sure yet which is the way to go...
Question is if the rod breaks due to compression or due to the movement / angle...

[Dat510z]

In my care, it was due to bending of the T/C rod.  Having urethane bushings on both sides significantly reduces the T/C rod's ability to move up and down with the suspension.  My T/C rod broke at right at the point where the shaft steps down to go through the bushings, due to bending.  There's a fairly sharp corner there.  When I machined my T/C rods to add caster, by moving the shoulder back a few mm, I added a better chamfer there.  

 

Yes, Urethane Bushing in the front position (as in relation to the front of the car) and OEM rubber in the rear.  This way the urethane bushing will reduce the rearward motion of the wheel, and the rubber bushing will still allow the T/C rod to move up and down.

[JDMjunkies.ch]

In my care, it was due to bending of the T/C rod.  Having urethane bushings on both sides significantly reduces the T/C rod's ability to move up and down with the suspension.  My T/C rod broke at right at the point where the shaft steps down to go through the bushings, due to bending.  There's a fairly sharp corner there.  When I machined my T/C rods to add caster, by moving the shoulder back a few mm, I added a better chamfer there.  

 

Yes, Urethane Bushing in the front position (as in relation to the front of the car) and OEM rubber in the rear.  This way the urethane bushing will reduce the rearward motion of the wheel, and the rubber bushing will still allow the T/C rod to move up and down.

Ah this makes sense. Also some people mentioned that the rod will mostly brake around the threads at the rear if it can't move enough within the polybushes. still a bit confused.

Nevertheless, i try to order a set of OEM rubber bushings and try to figure it out :) Thanks for all your inputs and advice guys, really appreciate!

[JDMjunkies.ch]

Time for a little more knowledge today After i posted pictures from my T/C rod bushings in various forum-threads, people replied that i should swap to rubber in the back. After discussing a few topics i figoured out that original rubber bushings are still available new from Nissan and ordered a set, which i was able to pick up today:

 

The problem: According to many people, the T/C rod tends to brake at the yellow area, when PU-bushings are used both in front and rear of the Frame-rail mount. This due to much counterstrength whith the hard PU-bushings.

 

For sciences' sake i decided to compare both setups with an original NOS 240Z frame rail i have in my shop.
Top: Front PU / rear Rubber
Bottom: Front PU / rear PU

 

1st: Both PU. Fits perfect, but it's very stiff, both compression and angle-movement wise.

 

Second: Front PU / rear rubber.
You still have the advantage of PU-front (less rearwards movement during compression, red arrow), while having more freedom of angle-movement (yellow arrow) and therefore minimized the chance that the T/C rod will brake.

 

So thanks all for the inputs and advice and i'll definitely stick with the PU / Rubber combination for best performance and with least failure rate :)

[JDMjunkies.ch]

Time for another update. I lately stumbled on the Nissan / Datsun USA Technical service bulletin about the change of the hatch window rear defroster lines from Vertical to horizontal:

 

Since i had been wondering why my cars (which were built close together) came with two different types of windows, which i figoured out lately, it cought my interest and i started to look closer.
Car 1. SNR: HLS30-56801 came with ld horizontal lines. Registered in March 1972

 

Car 2. SNR: HLS30-59660 came with Vertical lines.Registered in May 1972

 

Strange enough, the SNR of my (European spec) cars are one Digit shorter than the ones mentioned in (American) Service bulletin. Both my cars were built in late 1971, but i assume the date in the Service bulletin is not the production date of change, but the release date of the document. Given the lead time of the cars from production to first registration in switzerland, and the lead time from Production change to the release of the Service bulletin. i guess my two cars, built close together just happend to be around the change. Also it is a prove that there is nothing like a "Series 1" car mentioned often. My "older" car doesn't have the vented hatch / side emblems, but it still came with "old" type window.
Service bulletin 231 (1976 introduction of the Datsun 280Z, America) also mentions a 6-digit VIN (HLS30-6digits). So i guess we just got a different vin-Block for european cars? I checked both my stamped serials as well as the VIN-plate. Both my cars only have HLS30-5digits

 

Oh and then got some interesting read from the UK. Race & Rallye magazine Jan. 1993

 

It features 15 Pages intresting background information about the Works 240Z rallye cars.

 

 

Including a variety of side-stories around them. Still have to read through it, but it seems very promising :)

[datsunfreak]

Service bulletin 231 (1971 introduction of the Datsun 280Z, America) also mentions a 6-digit VIN (HLS30-6digits). 

 

 

Typo? We did not get the 280Z until the '75 year model. 

[JDMjunkies.ch]

Typo? We did not get the 280Z until the '75 year model. 

Sure, my fault. corrected it - thanks for the Input, mate :)

[datsunfreak]

Strange enough, the SNR of my (European spec) cars are one Digit shorter...

Service bulletin 231 (1976 introduction of the Datsun 280Z, America) also mentions a 6-digit VIN (HLS30-6digits). So i guess we just got a different vin-Block for european cars? I checked both my stamped serials as well as the VIN-plate. Both my cars only have HLS30-5digits

 

You are correct, sir. The USDM cars had 6 digits, and I believe all JDM cars did as well.

 

Were the EUDM cars assembled there in Europe, or in Japan? I believe I've seen a similar thing with Australian-assembled Datsuns using different VIN sequences. 

[JDMjunkies.ch]

You are correct, sir. The USDM cars had 6 digits, and I believe all JDM cars did as well.

 

Were the EUDM cars assembled there in Europe, or in Japan? I believe I've seen a similar thing with Australian-assembled Datsuns using different VIN sequences. 

As far as i know all european datsun's were assembled in Japan.

[datsunfreak]

FWIW, in my research on 510s, only USDM and JDM cars were assembled in Japan (at least post-'68). Most (if not all) others were assembled locally.

 

Does the door plate on yours say assembled in Yokohama?

[JDMjunkies.ch]

You just have to love the days, when this is in your mailbox (or next to it):

 

But let's start in chronological order. On saturday i decided it's time to get rid of the old paint (Part two) of the lately acquired chin spoiler. Since the weak paint stripper (stronger ones are forbidden now in Switzerland). didn't do anything i got out my CSD Disks and that worked pretty well.. Before:

 

And about an hour later:

 

 

Yesterday the first package then showed up at the door. A set of Dixcel front disks for the OEM Brakes (for use with the MK63 solid type calipers). I decided to go for the optional black painted center-hubs, just for the looks and to prevent the area from surface rust, which is quite common there...

 

And today some more stuff showed up at my door. Pitworks oil filter (mainly bought it because it was cheap and fitted in the same box for free..) 

 

The lately released Hayashi oil filler cap. in an awesome packing that only the japanese can do :)

 

Set of genuine JAF Emblems (not sure if i will put them on the car, but i liked it). will post some details about this in another post...

 

Mspeed firewall rubber grommet

 

Well and a little blingy Z-keychain (From mspeed), because i didn't have anything to put my keys on and it fitted in the package for free..

 

Set of NOS brake pads. not interested in the pads themselves, but needed the metal-shims, which i messed up from my original set...

 

Then some reading stuff. Japanese Z-story book. looks promising but have to study it first:

 

 

Japense (later version) Z432-R & 240Z  Race & Rallye preparation manual... 

 

has lots of technical information about how to prepare the car and some additional information.

 

Nostalgic Hero S30Z only book.

 

Seems to have some interesting cars and information inside as well...

 

Oh and then a beautiful set of old used but restoreable Enkei mag wheels...

 

Unfortunately the Shirt and Wheels are not for me or my project. I just helped a friend get them here. but because they're nice i thought i'd share the pictures anyway :)

[JDMjunkies.ch]

FWIW, in my research on 510s, only USDM and JDM cars were assembled in Japan (at least post-'68). Most (if not all) others were assembled locally.

 

Does the door plate on yours say assembled in Yokohama?

European cars didn't come with a door plate or SNR on top of the dashboard (only the one in the engine bay and the SNR stamped in the firewall),

but i know they came from Japan because they were imported in europe :)

 

The engine bay plate shows "Yokohama, Japan":

 

And underneath the glovebox both cars i have were marked with japanese "Su-i-su" Characters, meaning it was an export car with destination switzerland.

(Thanks to Alan T. For the input)

[datsunfreak]

The engine bay plate shows "Yokohama, Japan":

 

Well, there you go.  :thumbup:

 

I learned something new today...  

[JDMjunkies.ch]

Facebook groups can suck. While there are always guys beeing A**holes on the internet, sometimes you really run into nice people that help you with your needs and do that happily as well! Recently i asked around if someone had a RH rear quarter panel in usable shape for sale, so my bodyshop doesn't have to make one from scratch (which is a lot more expensive over here). And a guy called Crow Aries immediately was in. It took a while to get all sorted out, but he even was kind enough to remove the old paint before shipping (didn't even ask for this!). Thank you so much sir! This is the car it was removed from:
 


 

After some blasting and cleaning:

 

Needs some minor work but still way better than getting this whole panel made from scratch. With this the RH-side of the car's body should be completed soon :)

 

Oh and he was also kind enough to throw in a hood rod in the package since it appears that i accidentally sold the one i had.. Thanks again sir. Appreciate to deal with you!

[JDMjunkies.ch]

Not even sure yet if i will end up with solex / Mikuni Triple carbs but, when i was ordering some parts from Japan and saw this set of Manuals for 10 bucks i just couldn't resist.

It's a set of three Manuals / parts catalogue copies in high quality by Mikuni Kogyo corp and Tokiwa (Mikuni / Solex agent in Japan).

 

This one even features a nice picture of the S20 Engine.

Now also figoured out the same seller sells new sets with an additional Manual... Still have to read through it though. quite a bit busy atm and can't find time to study all this stuff thoroughly.

[JDMjunkies.ch]

Despite beeing in full swing with wedding preparations and working on the new house / Garage / Workshop project, i found a little time to find some parts. Well Honestly they found me this time. I guy from the netherlands which i purchased parts for in the past contacted me about some more parts he found:
A whole bunch NOS 71A transmission spareparts (early 5-speed):

 

With a few 71B parts included as well, like a complete 2nd cear assy

 

And because the price was so good i decided to take the complete, disassembled 71B (later 5-speed) as well. I dont really need it but you never know. and the price was too good. If someone is interested i can sell it. But won't actively advertise it and will keep it as a spare transmission at the moment :)

[JDMjunkies.ch]

It has been a while since a serious update on the 240Z has happened. it was a bit of a hectic time the last few weeks. Aside from marrying my wife and having a three-week / 4850km road-trip to sweden and back (See here) we also started building our House including a big Workshop and Garage (See here), which will be the final home of the Z, and where it will be assembled.
At least my bodyshop guy was working during my absence and sent me some updates from the Z. No big things, but again those small details that matter and make the difference between a cheap resto and a bit more serious one. The door gap at the rear fender has been adjusted and aligned, so that it will have a perfect fit. Before:



 

And after my Panelbeater worked his magic. Looks absolutely lovely if you ask me.
Now just hope fore some more work getting done soon

 

Oh, and waiting for some interesting reads from Japan too ?

[JDMjunkies.ch]

This is just a short (but important) update. The right hand side rear lower corner has been re-attached (replacement part cutout from a donor car, which i found in America) to the car. This means the right side is complete again. At least from the outside. Now just floors, roof, rear and left side left *lol*. allthough i think the most complicated part of the body restauration is completed now. Still will take a lot of months until the rest is completed..

[datsunfreak]

Are you familiar with the Ship of Theseus?  ?

[JDMjunkies.ch]

2 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

Are you familiar with the Ship of Theseus?  ?

Haha well yeah. but some areas remain the same in my "ship" ?

[JDMjunkies.ch]

While i'm busy building my garage/house/Workshop i don't have a lot of time to spend on the cars, but still from time to time i get some things done. like looking for interesting reads. Today this arrived from japan: A set of  Nissan service announcement Book No. 184 "Introduction of Fairlady Z". With tons of information about the then new Fairlady Z.

Still need to read through it (and my japanese isn't Very well). but so far i already found some really interesting information in there... For examlpe here the different badging on the different japanese versions of the cars are explained. Sure you find this information in the parts manual as well, but there is a lot more background information and additional information in this books and i absolutely love it ?

[JDMjunkies.ch]

While our garage- / Workshop- and House build is coming along nicely...

 

 

There was something i've been looking for since a long while to complete my Documentation. And more than once i missed a chance to get one of those. but finally i Managed to get hands on it. Or at least a copy of it. the Nissan Sport service transmission manual. It's basically a Book with lots of background information on all (or most of them) optional transmissions for japanese nissans back in the day. I haven't gone through it yet but the information seems to be very useful... I want to thank a certain Man in Japan for taking the effort to copy this for me in excellent quality. Don't want to name you in public because many others may want to get this too, but you know who you are. Thank you! Will pretty sure post some Z-related data from the book on my Blog over the course of the next weeks. whenever i find time.
Original and copy:

 

Cover:

 

Some basic information about the Z-relevant transmissions: