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My 521 Thread of what not to do to one.....


bilzbobaggins

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Im the first to admit I am a terrible updater, picture taker and decent at laying down my words in a way that they are understandable.  

 

Anyways.....

 

The trunk is now a runner again.  Ive got most of my issues resolved.  I got legal on thursday and just got back from my first test run.

 

Brakes.  I found the back rear wheel cylinders had gone out from setting.  Replaced and bleed them.  Still not where they need to be.  More bleeding needed.

 

Left turn signals do not work.  Bulbs are good.  Can clicks under the dash.  No output front or rear.  Prolly a ground.

 

The fuel pump started leaking fuel.  Its a 6 bolt off my spare L20b that WILL be in this truck at some time.  Im going to get a cheapo one and put on.  Im going to order the nikki one from ebay but that should take some time to get here from Aisa.

 

On the heater box the screw for the handle for the hot water is stripped out.  There is not a lot left.  Im going to remove the wonderful oem style long heater hose I put on a few months ago and install another homemade one with a water spout handle on there so I can not sweat my ass off during the day.

 

Find the leak thats ate my floors up.

 

Install hood.

 

Order a new fuse box.  My hot side is a blade style box and the switched side is a cobbled together glass fuse box.  Its ghetto but works.

 

Hopefully get a new exhaust ran tomorrow.  That will make this shit so much fucking better.  I get headaches from it.

 

Clean Clean Clean.

 

Im going to get hammered now.  Too excited.

 

On a side note, how in the fuck do I not get pulled over with no hood on and a super loud exhaust, but at other times get pulled over for nothing?????  Funny as fuck

 

And I finally named her.  I drank a shit ton of sweet tea which im not that big a fan of to get stuff buttoned up.  So now im calling her "sweet D"  Funny and appropriate.

 

Enough rambling of thoughts that dont make much sense.  I warned you.  Not good at laying down my thoughts.  Much better talker.

 

Thanks

 

Jef

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Just read your thread, some thoughts.

Here is a wiring diagram.

521wires.jpg

Go halfway down on this page, download the 521 factory service manual.

http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/620tech.htm

 

"Brakes.  I found the back rear wheel cylinders had gone out from setting.  Replaced and bleed them.  Still not where they need to be.  More bleeding needed."

The wheel cylinders have only one port.  You have to pump up the brakes, open the bleeder, and wait long enough for the shoes to collapse again, to push air in the wheel cylinder back out the bleeder fitting.  Three pumps on the brake pedal, or the single reservoir will get empty, and you pump a new shot of air into the brake lines.

 

"Left turn signals do not work.  Bulbs are good.  Can clicks under the dash.  No output front or rear.  Prolly a ground."

Get the four way flashers working first.  Front park/turn lights ground to the cab sheet metal.  Rear tail light assembly wiring harness is connected to metal tail light frame.  The tail light frame should ground to the bed, the bed should ground to the trucks frame, the frame should ground to the engine.

I run an extra ground wire from the tail light frames, to the frame of the truck, and make sure the engine is grounded to the frame also.

 

This is a Blue Sea marine fuse box I put in one of my 521 trucks.  I did not want to drill more holes in the cowl, so I took a piece of black ABS plastic, and used flathead countersunk screws to mount the plastic to the cowl.  The ABS plastic has two "T" nuts on the bottom that match the mounting holes on the fuse block.  You can get jumpers that you can place on the fuse block anywhere you want to, so you can make the Blue Sea fuse block with either three, or four always hot fuses.

DragonFuseBlockMounted_zps72pwvxun.jpg

 

This thread is about replacing the exhaust system on a 521.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/61167-how-i-replaced-a-521-exhaust-system/?hl=exhaust

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Thanks DanielC.  Ive read your threads many times.  They are very useful in so many ways.  

 

I have a hardcopy of the fsm for my truck I bought on ebay a few years ago.  I also have a copy of it saved to my phone.

 

I think the brake  problem is the bleeders.  I put speed bleeders in the front some years ago and they have stripped out using my brake fittings wrenches.  The drivers side rear will not push fluid out the nipple of the bleeder but will push fluid out if I unscrew it out.  The shoes do still move.  I ordered some new bleeders off rock auto but they send me the wrong ones.  I am still waiting on correct ones.

 

Same thing on four ways and signals.  Just output on right side.  I did not get to check the front signal ground but the rear ground was good.  I am adding grounds in this truck though.  Ive got one ready to add to the cab that goes cab to frame and then to battery.

 

Did get a very pleasant surprise though.  I went to Autozone(which im not a fan of for a handful or reasons) to get the only cheap-o mechanical fuel pump in town.  To my delight, it was not a cheap stamped one like the pics on the website.  Its a nikki knock off i reckon.

 

C75431B8-58F3-4B55-B031-2727A4B754B3_zps

 

 

 

426B613D-D9BF-44A2-9291-E923EBB4B8B4_zps

 

 

A6332C6C-E36C-41DE-B1E5-5AEFEA6E3B12_zps

 

 

8EFA246F-5695-4317-9A16-3A87DD867FAC_zps

 

 

Here she is all installed.  I cleaned up the numbers that were stamped on the top.  Looks great there.  Ignore the universal flex on the lower radiator hose.  I had the old molded one off the 620 I parted out to use on this.  I found out when I went to put it on that they are slightly different and it wouldnt work.  I have since got a nice molded one for my L16 from rock auto.  I am going to change it tomorrow.  I only added water to check for leaks and to test drive.   I will flush and add a good 50/50 mix in her.  Heres my favorite homemade tool for this 521 so far.  

 

E106E37C-ED3B-4663-9E0C-6DC5C29367AC_zps

 

Its the top off of a bleach bottle.  Its got the offset to it so when I crack  the drain on the radiator, it catches it and keeps it from draining on the crossmember.  It all sets in place on its own.  Ive had this for over 6 years.

 

And I love that fuse box.  I just need to spend the coin and get one. 

 

Im sure there is more but im beat.  Spent my day fighting with the assbackwards state of South Carolina today.

 

Thanks

 

Jeff

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Well, took the 521 on her first real trip in three fucking years.  It was wonderful.  16 miles there and 16 back.  Ran great.  Do need a better return spring on carb though.  Only wanted to snap back to idle if I got off at half throttle or above.  Just gotta make a bracket.  Got a spring already selected on the work bench.

 

Brakes.  Well, I will be the first to admit I never had bleed the backs in all the years I have had her.  The passenger rear bleeds normal, but the driver side is some sort of mystery to me.  I couldn't wait to get my bleeders from rock auto so got speed bleeders.  The drivers rear would not take the speed bleeder and seal.  The bleeder that's in there does not have a conical end, but a flat end. (no pics  I was in a hurry)  Its got some sort of weird valve on it.  When I get a replacement I will get a pic.  I don't know if the speed bleeder is bad or not.  After getting the rears adjusted and sorta bled(The speed bleeder got a shit ton of air out and I was speedy when I took it back out and rolled the weirdo one back in), its got a shit ton more pedal. 

 

But, I forgot about a problem she had.  When you get on the brakes, you feel the pedal travel, then meet resistance and then POP, pedal drops more and left front grabs and it wants to dart that way.  If you are on them good, the left front locks up.  Im going to open that wheel up next day off.

 

And I got the left signals working sorta.  Found some sort of two pin???? bullshit taped and tapped into that side turn signal wiring on rear.  Have no clue.  Removed.  Nothing like that on the other side.  The 4 way flashers wont fire on that side, but have turn signals on that side.  Sounds like a ground.  Also observed the parking light on that side not being as bright.  Found out I gotta get to the wiring there front inside the wheel well, so its now soaking in penetrating spray.  Hopefully don't tear anything up.  Oh and the left turn signal light in the combination meter  is on with the lights on.  Faintly.

 

Got the antifreeze and distilled water but never got the time to put it in.  Its on the hit list.

 

Forgot what a piece of shit the ashtray is.  Im going to mount one somewhere else.  All that dash fucker does it blow ashes in my eyes.

 

Well im off to watch some tv and unwind.  I start my all day shifts at the bar tomorrow.  9 am to 3 am gets old.  And its masters week.  Out of town assholes for the most part.

 

Thanks

 

Jeff

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Sounds like your front brakes are not adjusted correctly....possibly? Not sure what the popping noise is though, brake shoe or spring binding then letting loose? It'll be interesting to see what you find out.

 

Cool fuel pump for aftermarket too, good score. I wonder if that is rebuildable with Nikki parts? Or if AZ sells kits to rebuild those?

 

Congrats on driving it again!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sounds like your front brakes are not adjusted correctly....possibly? Not sure what the popping noise is though, brake shoe or spring binding then letting loose? It'll be interesting to see what you find out.

 

Cool fuel pump for aftermarket too, good score. I wonder if that is rebuildable with Nikki parts? Or if AZ sells kits to rebuild those?

 

Congrats on driving it again!

 

Not too sure.  Ive been working a lot.  I did readjust them again and it got better.  It got even better when I checked the ubolts and found them loose. :blush:   Its still there, just not as bad.  Im off tomorrow and will be playing in the garage.

 

I would think it could be rebuilt with a kit as it looks just like a nikki pump.  No markings on it though.

 

And its been a blast to drive!!!

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Did some other work as well.  Was rummaging in my junk looking for something to make into a return bracket.  Decided to use the trunion??? that comes in the box with a weber carb.  I shot a hole through the slot (love the slot), got lucky and it centered.  Put it on the intake bolt and used the spring weber provides.

4D0EC77C-9FFE-4AA7-8320-45EB9491694A_zps

 

 

BC8F81EC-0E6A-48AD-8A8B-1578CBF6C79F_zps

 

Not the best pics.  I know.  There is one single light bulb lighting my whole garage.

 

 

Also flushed the cooling system three times.  Last time it came out clear.  Filled up on antifreeze and distilled water.  Fucking shit turned orange.  Im fairly upset.  Money down the drain.  I must need a coolant filter.  :rofl:   Also took the crappy flex lower rad hose off and put the nice new formed one on.  Forgot pics but it looks vastly better.

 

Think I have a charging problem as well.  Im getting a hair over 15 volts at idle.  Lights and everything on it drops to 13.8ish.  Stock 35 amper.  I think i can hear the bearings on the alt as well.  I have a backup I got some years ago.  I put a voltage reg on back in late 09 or early 10.  Autozone special.

 

Also forgot.  I put some 720 4x4 voltage meter and oil pressure gauges in.  Im very sad so far.  When you turn the ignition to on, the v.m. shoots to slightly above 12, then after 5 secconds starts ticking like a clock.  I used a beck arnley sending unit for the oil pressure sending unit I got from rock auto 3 or 4 years ago.  When it powers up, I get a reading of maybe five pounds, then when started it reads 50ish.  Driving conditions its 65ish.  I have not tried adjusting it on the back yet.  If no one chimes here on how they work correctly, I will start a thread on them.

 

And I need to source a fuel gauge for the truck.  I will try to adjust it as well.  If memory serves me correctly, it never worked right.  Full tank showed around half a tank.  I think  :confused:  i remember it working down to empty though.  Now it just goes to the empty line and stays.  When I ground the sending wire, it only goes up to halfway.  Im going to try and adjust the gauge to read full when grounded and see what happens.  I honestly think i ruined the sending unit some years ago cleaning the tank.  Ive been looking at the ones on flea bay trying to see which one from a different model might be made to work.

 

Thats all for now I think.  I should be cleaning up the bar to head home but we had ten people walk in 10 min before the earliest we close.  They drinking so we stay opppeeeeennnnn!!!

 

Enough bad typing and half baked thoughts.

 

Jeff

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I use those gauges often, including in my 720. I have never heard my volt meter tick... not even sure why it would do that. But of the 5 or 6 sets I've owned, none has done that.

 

Powered on, the oil gauge should read zero. It sounds like yours is reading a little high across the board, but I don't really know what L series oil pressure is supposed to be.

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I use those gauges often, including in my 720. I have never heard my volt meter tick... not even sure why it would do that. But of the 5 or 6 sets I've owned, none has done that.

 

Powered on, the oil gauge should read zero. It sounds like yours is reading a little high across the board, but I don't really know what L series oil pressure is supposed to be.

 

 

It doesn't audibly tick.  The needle ticks back and forth.  I shall try and get a video that does not sucketh.

 

When you say zero, as in the needle being on the white zero line or still dropped all the way as in no power?

 

Thanks

 

jef

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As for the gauge clicking, mine clicks when the turn signals or 4 ways are on, so I would make sure that neither of them devices are on.

Also where did you grab the power for the volt meter, and how did you ground it?

Is the engine running when it clicks?

Do you have your original external voltage regulator/alternator?

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Brake issue. Heres why I think the left front adjuster is on backwards. If I tighten up that side and take a drive, I get the annoying/scary popping sound with the hard snap left once or twice. Then its there but MUCH less noticeable. When I pull back in the garage, the Left Front is right back where it was BEFORE I adjusted it. I can consistently get this to happen. I will flip the adjustor over and document my results. I hope the light bulb over my head is right. Im reasoning that the pressure from applying the brakes is backing off the star wheel. Its the best idea I have at the moment

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As for the gauge clicking, mine clicks when the turn signals or 4 ways are on, so I would make sure that neither of them devices are on.

Also where did you grab the power for the volt meter, and how did you ground it?

Is the engine running when it clicks?

Do you have your original external voltage regulator/alternator?

It has the ticking needle without either the signals or the 4 ways on. Its not anymore noticeable with them on either.

 

Here is how I hooked them up.

 

Red/Black to Red/Blue

 

Green/Red to Blue/White

 

Green/Black and Black to Black

 

Yellow to new Sending Unit

 

Note-Im color blind. I have issues with greens, yellows and blues. I do know I need to go back through my fuse box hookups. When I first got this truck it had some awful aftermarket fuse box in it. Ive gotten it better but not good. Im not sure if my truck should be a 4/2 or a 3/3 fuse box.  Ive always thought it was a early pl521.   I believe I have it hooked up right now but its not because wipers are always hot. I hooked it up via the diagram in this thread. It was done in dim light which makes colors hard for me to ascertain.

 

It ticks with it running or not running.

 

Its the 35 amp ext regulated alternator. 

 

Ask me anymore questions PLEASE!!!

 

Im very thankful for everyones help.

 

Jeff

 

 

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Other thinks I tinkered with.

 

I now have flashers working as well as left turn signal.  Got the back cover off the LF turn signal and got the bucket out.  No broken bolts or screws.  Shes been hit in the front before.  Who ever did the body work had body filler all up in the holes for the bucket bolts causing a shitty ground.  I knocked out the filler and used a large washer on the back to get a good ground.  Works like a champ now.  They flash at the same speed running verses not running.  Still have the left turn signal indicator on with the head lights on though.  Thinking and guessing its in the combo meter from my crappy soldering job to fix illumination circuit. 

 

The clutch pedal has always made a horrid squalling sound when pushed.  Ive always lived with it.  I finally looked at it and realized someone put the pin on the wrong side and had the spring all bound up.  Installed correctly and now no sound.  Have good free play on it as well.

 

I also wasn't happy with the idle on getting out of the throttle on low speed.  Realized the nut had gotten ever so loose on the end of the throttle shaft at the trunnion.  Snugged up a coot hair.  Don't want it to bind.  This solved that.

 

Man o man.  Some of the easy crap I always put up with and am finally doing to this truck.

 

My truck never locked from the outside.  Passenger side never has done squat.  Tried lubing it up to no avail.  Not sure its the same key.

Drivers side unlocked from the outside only.  I locked it by leaving the wing window open and reaching in and locking door.  Then you aligned the pin up with the track for the wing window and I would snap the window shut.  The lock on it would travel down and I was as secure as could be.  I sprayed the lock down and now I can lock the door from the outside.

 

Got the hood back on.  Easy cheesy.

 

The turn signal switch had gotten stiff as well.  Took cover off and put a little bit o lube on the ball.  Clicks great now and snaps back when the cancel rod hits it.

 

Started hitting lots of body bolts up with penetrating spray.  The valence is all fubar but im going to take it off and beat on it.  I cant make it worse.

 

Im at work now and about to eat some food, then play with the truck some.  Drove her in today.  I will get a pic later of her parked in front of the bar. lulz

 

Jeff

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Going to actually try to post all my bullshit in my own thread.

 

I have been driving my truck for the last 3-4 weeks all the time.  Except for when I have my son.  Just not comfortable with a 6yo and a lapbelt, not to mention the questionable seat mounting.  Since my bar is shut down, I have been going to my shop and working on the used cars I sell on the side.  Its nice to be able to get in my truck when I am a grease ball and not worry about trashing my other vehicle.  

 

The truck has  been running well.  Getting around 26 mpg with the 32/36 on it.  Speedo reads all over the board due to my dumbass getting metal all over the magnet in it.  I use a speedo ap on my phone anymore.  I calculate mileage with google maps on my pc and divide by what I put in my tiny 5 gallon fuel tank.

 

I have an endless list of things that need to be done with my truck.

 

Drop and clean/coat my fuel tank.  I have the kit and everything I need to do this other than time for the most part.  

 

Figure out the snappy brake situation under heavy braking.  I got it better by replacing the tension rod bushings and sway bar link bushings, but it is still not right.

 

The list is endless as most of you understand.

 

Finally put my air cleaner back on the carb last night  from where I took it off 3 years ago.  Its nice to almost hear myself think in there.

 

 

These are some of my ramblings.  I am not very good at typing my thoughts out in an easily read way.  Just not very good at it.

 

 

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