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How to remove/replace broken bolts


AtomChurch

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In this particular situation I decided to try to do this two different ways. I broke both lower fender bolts on my 510 and decided to remove them. The first way I did so was plasma cut the section out and weld in a new section with a new nut welded on.

 

The hole I made.

IMG_9054.jpg

 

 

The piece I removed.

IMG_9050.jpg

 

 

The new piece I made.

IMG_9074.jpg

IMG_9073.jpg

 

I do not have photos yet of what it looks like finished I didn't take any yet [the piece is welded in I promise] but you get the idea.

 

The other way I went about doing this went a little like this.

 

Plasma cut a hole in your kick panel to expose the end of the broken bolt.

IMG_9059.jpg

 

Then you take a oxygen acetylene torch and heat it all up red hot.

IMG_9063.jpg

 

The step I didn't take a photo of was me with the vise grips removing the stud.

Here is the stud removed.

IMG_9060.jpg

 

From my analysis of these two different ways of achieving the same goal I have determined a couple things.

First Heating the whole area with the the torch gets the surrounding metal way more warm then the act of welding in a new section. This could cause a problem with already painted sections being somewhat close to the area that is in need of repair.

Also the removing and re-installation of the section is quicker. Its not too difficult to accurately align the new nut and the fender is slightly adjustable and could be easily modified to fit any misadjustments made when welding in the new piece. However doing everything from the inside [through the kick panel in this situation] makes the process less noticeable and is a very good thing to think about especially if you are repairing an area that easily visible on the car.

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  • 2 months later...

I've broken my share of fender bolts as well...

my fix seems to work pretty well.

1) grind it flush if it sticks out

2) center punch it (very important to get in the center)

3) use a small bit drill out the center, keep increasing the bit one size at a time. I start at 1/8" and go up.

4) Either it won't be exactly center and you will hit the threads on one side, in which case you can usually use a very small screw driver and bend what is left out OR what is left will either screw in or out just w/ the bit OR just falls out.

5) re-tap what is left, if loose use thread lock.

 

every time I've done this the bolts go back in w/ out an issue and are plenty tight with out stripping. Its kind of a pain, but at least you don't have to do any body work. As long as you get it in the center you should be fine.

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I broke 10 out of the 14 bolts holding on the fenders on my car. Once I pulled the fender off, I PB blastered the heck out of the bolts. Vise griped the back side of the bolts (side hidden by the fender) and got the loose and pulled out. I sheared one of the bottom bolts. After trying a while to get it out with no luck, I said screw it, drilled a 1/4 hole through the old bolt, went to Home Depot grabbed a 3/8 lag screw and tightened it up. All good.

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In welding class if you break a bolt I can use a tig machine. I can add metal to the broken bolt so I can get more room to vicegrip it and pb blast it off. That way I dont make holes and use drills...

 

If I had a welder I would take a nut with a diameter slightly smaller than the bolt, weld it on nice and strong like, Then you have a nice surface to grab, even use a breaker bar on. But alas no welder for me.

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Three of the four lower fender bolts snapped off on my Z. I did like some of the other guys. Just weld extra material onto the remains of the bolt. Once that's built up far enough I take a nut and weld it securely to the length I built up. Usually the heat from welding will also help loosen the rust. I was able to get all of the bolt remains out, and now they've been replaced with stainless hardware.

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