Sealiks Shit

[Sealik]

That will probably work. You know a broke a brake line from the front to the back on my old Omni. Easy fix right? Just get a pre made length from crap tire and good to go. So Guess what Chrysler did... they put two different threads on the ends. Fuckers!!!! I cut the nut off and put it on the line and flared it. Cost $7 instead of $80

 

 

I sense your sentiments..... :lol:

Take another clutch damper down to the local auto parts store for them to 'match' a union fitting for it (to accept my clutch lines), then come home. Pull the steel lines out and away and try to attach the union.....fuck.....no fit.

Now I have no wheels... :thumbup: ..not.

Sooooo....I took a brass 3-way brake tee from another 720 truck, capped the third opening with the only 'fitting' I could find and installed. :P

Even has a bleeder! :lol:

 

 

 

 

 

Clutch works much better....no pulsations......nothing...no noticeable difference between it and my other trucks.

Now I can set the peddle back to stock specs.

[Sealik]

Soooo...been waiting for some gauges.

The A/F came in today.....impressed..... seems to be of a decent quality.

 

 

Only a narrow (12-17) band.....but, it's all i need for now.

See if I can replace the black gauge trim with the 720 chrome.....match the stock setup

Have a 3 wire O2 sensor and a Prosport vacuum gauge on route also....

[Sealik]

Got the gauges mounted, bit of a mish mash on esthetics....but function over form. :D

 

 

Just waiting for the heated O2 sensor.

Not sure yet if I want to stuff it into the location where I removed the EAI tubes

 

 

Should be farther down the line...on the exhaust pipe?

[Sealik]

Got the console mounted in the truck

 

 

Had to pull it back out after I realized that some 720 gauges have different 'back lighting'.

 

 

Noticed the needle jumping around at 20lbs.....maybe a total of 2-3 lbs.

 

Could mean a few things......if I had and 'cam' in it, the overlap would make the needle fluctuate as mine. But....total vacuum would only be about 15lbs.

Could be a valve on its way out.....should do a compression test I guess. Hmmmmm....shall investigate.

But I'll wait till the A/F gauge is up and running.....see how rich or lean the engine is first.

 

How to read a Vacuum Gauge

 

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

 

 

Engine Speed Gauge Reading Engine Condition

Idle 16" - 22" steady Healthy

Idle 14" - 20" steady Fair but worn

Snap throttle Jumps to 2" then on decel moves to 25" Healthy

Snap throttle Jumps to 1" then on decel moves to 22" Fair but worn

Idle 8" or less Vacuum leak, loose intake manifold

Idle Fluctuated between 14" - 19" Worn valve guides or head gasket blown between 2 cylinders

Idle Reading drops from normal Burnt valve, valve stuck open, misfiring spark plug

Idle 8" - 14" Valve timing incorrect or large camshaft overlap

Idle 14" - 16" Ignition timing wrong

Idle Moves between 12" - 16" Idle mixture incorrect

Slow engine speed rise Needle falls then rises suddenly Blocked exhaustWeak valve springs

3000 rpm Needle fluctuates and worsens with higher rpm Weak valve springs

 

 

 

Info on tuning an AFM

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Real-World-AirFuel-Ratio-Tuning/A_109878/article.html

[Sealik]

Came to the conclusion after I took the truck for a run.....that I had a 'miss' in the engine.

Barely noticeable....but after the truck was warmed up, the vacuum needle still had a slight 'jimmy'.

Turned everything off in the truck and listened......yup....sure as shit.

The gauge was telegraphing that slight anomaly.....excellent.

Now I just have to find it..... :D

[datzenmike]

No no. Turn the stereo up louder and it goes away.

[Sealik]

No no. Turn the stereo up louder and it goes away.

 

 

Ya.....but every time I do...I 'say'...WTF is that?.....oh right....just the 'base' rattling the windows. Not a rod coming out the side of the block...... :lol:

On another note.... got the bung mounted. It's about 18 inches from the bottom of the EM. Initially thought it was a little to far away.....but being a heated O2 sensor, thought the location is okay. Closet we could get without dropping the exhaust.

Long story short.........ALWAYS CHECK YOUR GROUNDS.

I initially made up an older 'harness', taped it up, forgot that the wires changed colors from one side to the other.

Installed it.....no workie.

Pull it....change the wires that looked 'wrong'....install it, still no workie.

Fuck

Anywho.....made up a new, longer harness........ended up being a ground. :blink:

The gauge only reads from 12-17....soooo...initially it was barely reading at idle.

Had to clock the AFM about 7 cogs CCW to read 14.7 at idle.

I'll probably try to bring it back a bit, but it seems to run better.

It is a Z20E ECU and AFM on a Z24....so one would assume the excessive clock adjustment

Not blowing black smoke and the plugs look fine so far.

'It's says under a light load A/F mixture will climb to about 15.5....they are correct :D .....I turn my heater on, placing the engine under a load, and the gauge climbs .5. Turn the lights on and it climbs another .5.

Have a reading around 15.5 'cruising' down the road at 70kmh. Throttle it...maxes out at 17

Total sweep is between 14.3 and 17+

 

 

 

A/F ratios

 

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Tuning-AirFuel-Ratios/A_1595/article.html

[datzenmike]

 

Have a reading around 15.5 'cruising' down the road at 70kmh. Throttle it...maxes out at 17

Total sweep is between 14.3 and 17+

 

 

That's a bit lean isn't it? The heavier the load the lower the numbers should go. Hard acceleration should go to 11-12 to prevent pre ignition. Light throttle cruise should be 14.7 and deceleration a bit higher?

[Sealik]

That's a bit lean isn't it? The heavier the load the lower the numbers should go. Hard acceleration should go to 11-12 to prevent pre ignition. Light throttle cruise should be 14.7 and deceleration a bit higher?

 

 

You're right.... :D

Should read the links I post a litter better. :)

Hmmmmmm....moar research.

 

 

So....I'm leaning out on acceleration.

There is no pre ignition.

Wonder if it's the larger TB?

 

I'm already at 7 cogs CCW....have a feeling I won't get that out of the AFM

Vacuum is good.

[Sealik]

..."Bosch states that most spark ignition engines develop their maximum power at air/fuel ratios of 12.5:1 - 14:1, maximum fuel economy at 16.2:1 - 17.6:1, and good load transitions from about 11:1 - 12.5:1. However, in practical applications, engine air/fuel ratios at maximum power are often richer than the quoted 12.5:1, especially in forced induction engines where the excess fuel is used to cool combustion and so prevent detonation...."

 

 

..."Light-load cruise conditions permit the use of lean air/fuel ratios. Ratios of 15-16:1 can be used in engines with standard cams, while engines with hot cams will require a richer 14:1 air/fuel. If a specific lean cruise function is available, air/fuel ratios of 17 or 17.5:1 can be used, normally at the standard light-load ignition advance. ...."

 

 

 

Well......I guess I'm getting excellent fuel economy..... :lol:

[Sealik]

Actually...I never had it at WOT for more than a second or 2.

It just breaks loose......ice on the local roads and all.

I'll take it out to the dry highway....see if it gauge cycles lower (richer) with a heavy (load) acceleration

[Sealik]

Got the A/F numbers a little lower.... :thumbup:

Timing was at 11 BTDC.. :blink: ...changed it to 3ish.

Revved the engine up to 3000RPM (guessed, couldn't see the tac) and dialed my advance timing light in.....got 32 degrees when my timing marks were at zero.

Total advance.....36ish degrees.

Had a slight leak in the vacuum hose feeding the dizzy.....fixed that.

Tried to connect vacuum advance hose to the IM .....not good. Started to miss?

 

Found some dry pavement and gave it.

AF needle is around 14.5 at WOT

Sorry for the crappy video.....my copilot was a clothes bin.....mounted my camcorder to it..... :lol: :lol:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fR5coqTrFXk

[Sealik]

Turned the AFM spring CCW (more) to see if I could get a rich mixture, below 14.5....no difference.
Rotated the TPS a bit....just leaned out at idle.
The engine was running rich at one point.....pulled the air reg out.....and 'fixed' that problem.
Didn't change anything else.
Baffled.
Pulled the black plastic button out on the AFM to access a screw inside, turning it in should also create a rich mixture....no difference. Was only about 3/4 of a turn before bottoming out. It looks like its not in the factory position? As you can see from the pic there is a yellow 'seal' at the top of the threads, matching the outside of the screw, which is about 1/4 inch away.
Anyone have a AFM lying about? See where your screw is situated?
Could be the factory setting and might not be of issue...but...just need to confirm
Thanks

[Sealik]

Len checked his AFM for me (thanks).....and no black button like mine. Just a metal insert, somewhat inaccessible.

Hmmmmm...I guess some AFMs are configured different relative to year and or 02 equipped????

Plugged the air reg back in....no change

Anywho....think I'll check the fuel pressure first.

Test the AFM second

Can't see it being the ECU, no vacuum leaks/over 20 lb at idle....basically it needs more fuel.

[Sealik]

Sooooooo...nary a fuel pressure gauge to be found.

Oh well....on to other things :D

All this talk about LZ22s in the forum lately.....I'm in, keep up with the Jones' I guess... :lol:

Pulled one of my Z22s (truck) out.....ran good before I pulled it. 160k....100,000 miles.

No ridge on the cylinder walls.....good.....but here nor there, it's going to be bored to 86mm.

LZ23....big bore

 

 

Had no plugs in it.....have a little rust....no biggie.....hopefully :)

 

 

The head I pulled

 

 

This Z24 engine I believe had new pistons put in it, probably pull them out and have a look on the condition, most likely just buy new ones though.

 

 

Located a 77 truck ....gonna go down in the next few days and pull the head, Im and Em.

 

Not sure weather to use the KA or Z24 pistons....will the KAs be too much compression with pump gas?

[datzenmike]

LZ2.3

Z head 8.469

L head 9.829

 

Wouldn't be hard to grind some metal off the L combustion chamber to make it bigger and lower the compression a bit. Un-shroud the valves a bit.

[Sealik]

LZ2.3

Z head 8.469

L head 9.829

 

Wouldn't be hard to grind some metal off the L combustion chamber to make it bigger and lower the compression a bit. Un-shroud the valves a bit.

 

 

The L(U67)head/Ka pistons at 9.829 will run okay without 'additives' in the fuel.... :)....let's say........... regular? :D

Will a higher duration/overlap cam....necessitate a higher octane,...?.... if it's at 9.8?

[datzenmike]

With a long duration large overlap cam the cranking, low speed compression can easily be much less that 9.8. However when revved way up it can actually draw in more than atmospheric pressure air and the compression can exceed 9.8. I know it seems impossible.

[Sealik]

With a long duration large overlap cam the cranking, low speed compression can easily be much less that 9.8. However when revved way up it can actually draw in more than atmospheric pressure air and the compression can exceed 9.8. I know it seems impossible.

 

 

I see....sort of :blink: :)

Wasn't really thinking of anything to extreme, including lift...just a mild cam that can be used with the stock springs

[datzenmike]

Oh mild/medium shouldn't upset anything.

[Sealik]

Oh mild/medium shouldn't upset anything.

 

That is good....any suggestions?

 

Went down and pulled the U67...and everything else :)

 

 

Fluids in it looked better than some of engines :lol: Apparently it ran when parked, the TC guides have little to no wear

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some other 720s

 

 

Hmmmm..another 620....never noticed this before, have to investigate

 

 

Here's the 510 I was talking about with the 'mint' door panels, even has a sunroof.

 

 

 

Couldn't get 1 bolt holding the EM to the exhaust pipe.

Have to go back and jack it up to get access.

Emailed Nissan Parts.cc on the availability of the LZ23 HG

[datzenmike]

Doug are the intake and exhaust bolted together on this one???

 

 

If so you don't want em. Get the separate intake and exhaust off the '79...

 

 

Also I'm not clear if the Canadian HL510 have the 5 speed option so take a look next time.

 

Even more important! Get the EI dizzy from it!!!

.

 

Emailed Nissan Parts.cc on the availability of the LZ23 HG

 

No such animal. If boring to 89mm then a Z24 will do. Just trim the timing chain part off the front and 'graft' the L series from an old gasket onto it.

[Sealik]

The truck I pulled it from is a 75.

Not sure if the IM and EM were all in 1.....assumed the heat shields were holding them together?

The L engine is quite new to me.......actually.....my first day :D

So grab the dizzy, IM and EM of the 510?

It's manufactured in 8/77 I believe

[Sealik]

There is also that orange 620 in a previous pic I took....not sure of that year though.

What year did they start 'separating' the IM and EM?

[datzenmike]

I think all U-67s were mated together. The '78 with W-58 were separate.