Sealiks Shit

[Sealik]

So....I decided to finally hook up the tail lights.....properly.

The 'Swiss Cheese' truck :D is an 83.......the box is an 85.

The 83 cab has a 6 wire plug...... at the connection near the bumper.

The 85 box has only 5 wires.

I did have the running lights (cab) connected to the brake lights (box).....but every time I hit the brakes, my running lights would light up. :)

 

 

Think I might have to use one of those 2 to 3 wire tailight conversion boxes.....?????

 

[Sealik]

I fix.

Had to buy a 4 to 5 wire car/trailer light conversion thing a ma jingy.

Somewhat legal now..... :lol:

[merlin]

legal schmegal.. it's not like we ever see CVSE in Clearwater...:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

btw... i sandblasted my 521 gas tank and it has a hole or six... any chance you found the contact info for the one in blackpool?

[Sealik]

legal schmegal.. it's not like we ever see CVSE in Clearwater...:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

btw... i sandblasted my 521 gas tank and it has a hole or six... any chance you found the contact info for the one in blackpool?

 

 

No clue on their name, was listed on CL I think. I know exactly where it is though, when the wind blows on certain nights, I get the odd whiff of a Datsun out there.. :hyper: ..:lol:

Smells like a 68 :D

[Sealik]

Finally ran out of usable front 4x4 propeller shafts. ..
There are different bolt patterns on the 83-85 flange yolks.

 

The 3 on the left are of the bolt pattern I need for the Swiss Cheese truck.....they all need 1 or 2 u-joints replaced.

So......decided to remove a u-joint. Not sure what the term 'stacked in' refers to, but for some reason I pulled a wing steak from my fridge..... I think that refers to the inner clip?
Man those journals are tight in the yolk.....!
Didn't have a shallow socket....so I used what was handy......TC gear

 

Things were going well....until I heard a big POP!.....thought it was the journal breaking loose.
Negative.....I broke my vise.....poop.
In hindsight I should of applied some heat.....oh well....live and learn

[lil89ram50]

holy shit!

[merlin]

just a crap chinese cast vice.. i've broken 2 like that this year, sucks though... i just bought a non swivel type for this very reason....

[Sealik]

Needed to change the upper link bushings and ball joints on the 85ST EFI truck.
Torsion bars are cranked.....which telegraphs any anomalies in the front end.
Not good....soooooo
Must fix..... :frantics:

These are stock bushings with 160000k.
Notice how the spindle bolt/washer is slightly offset to the link?.







The OE bushings were basically fused to the spindles

 

 

They were a bitch to remove....



I failed though....
I couldn't seat the bushings all the way.....
My 'patented' wood clamp....then reverse jack all app was a bust...... ....needed another 1/8 inch on each end.




Cost me 42 bucks for a local shop to finish the one link and press the other bushings.

Guess the mechanic had a bitch of a time also......



Total cost.... about 190 bucks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[nis720]

I've been wanting to do the control arm bushings on my 720. Where did you get the bushings from?

[Sealik]

 

 

I've been wanting to do the control arm bushings on my 720. Where did you get the bushings from?

Local auto parts supplier....Moog bushings.
Charged me 15 bucks a pop!................poop.

[Sealik]

Well...I've replaced the upper ball joints, upper link bushings, steering (shock) stabilizer, idler arm. The rest of the steering looks solid and I still have steering wheel shimmy when I hit a bump.

So....I assuming now that I have to bump up the steering stabilizer, due to the torsion bars being cranked

 

This one looks like it works in tandem with the stock.....shock?

Being that it has brackets....etc

Hmmmmm....not knowing. I emailed 4x4parts.com to confirm

 

 

 

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/720-pickup-steering-stabilizer-p-225.html

 

Or... I could grab another stock one and 'marry' it next to the 1 in my truck?

[Sealik]

That link I provided is basically for a steering stabilizer that can be bolted in....other than attaching it in, to the stock locale. They say it's for models not equipped with a steering stabilizer. WTF?

Never knew of any 720s that came without one.?????

No info on pressure.....so....not sure if it would any better than stock.

Crap

[Sealik]

Brought the 3 inch lifted truck into my 'shop'

This truck had the odd fire V6 Buick, with a turbo 350 auto. They were pretty much NFG.

Had to cut out the welded motor mounts and then re-install the stock hydraulic lines for the clutch.

 

 

 

 

 

The truck was rolled....but I somewhat fixed :) ....just needs some fine tuning. :rolleyes:

These pics are from about a year ago.

Actually....it looks pretty good now.....well....better, that is. ;)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

'Slathered' the front end with some primer....it was sitting outside feeling neglected, :D and starting to rust....again :lol:

The rad support and cab mounts were repaired and 'slightly' beefed up. :D

 

 

On another note....

 

Had my Z24 EFI out today....

When I cold start it up it idles about 1200 RPM....runs good.

Looking at the temp gauge after about 10 mins of driving, it's still not quite at operating temp but the engine is still idling at about 1200.

Shut it off....flash it back up....no dif in RPM.

But....if I shut it off for about 15 mins.....it idles 'purfect'

Dropping to about 700 RPM

Somewhat baffled.

Edited November 12, 2010 by Sealik

[Sealik]

Got a couple of gauges coming.....A/F ratio and vacuum.

So....I went out and found another console in my back 40 without a tray in it, easier to convert to 4 gauges.

Drilled a couple of holes.....

 

 

 

The top 2 gauges will be replaced.....just a mock up.

Now....I can get everything together and then just switch it with the 1 in my ST.

Worked out rather well.. :D ..could use a better cleaning though....

 

 

[datzenmike]

Doug, I traded poo for the US gauge that reads in PSI. How cool is that? Saw some at Canby.

 

 

 

 

 

(edit) :lol: just re read that first sentence.

[Sealik]

Doug, I traded poo for the US gauge that reads in PSI. How cool is that? Saw some at Canby.

 

 

 

 

 

(edit) :lol: just re read that first sentence.

 

 

Yes....the Datsun has no borders.... :D

Actually I have a States pair of gauges in my other truck.... :) Truck included :P

Didn't know how the metric gauges 'read' until a saw the southern set .....0-3-6 equals 0-45-90 lb

[Sealik]

..."On another note....

 

Had my Z24 EFI out today....

When I cold start it up it idles about 1200 RPM....runs good.

Looking at the temp gauge after about 10 mins of driving, it's still not quite at operating temp but the engine is still idling at about 1200.

Shut it off....flash it back up....no dif in RPM.

But....if I shut it off for about 15 mins.....it idles 'purfect'

Dropping to about 700 RPM

Somewhat baffled"....

 

Today I unplugged the elec connection to the air reg.....no difference in idle.

I'm assuming that the bi-metal spring is sticking....shall confirm that tomorrow when I clamp 1 of the hoses shut.

Notice my MPG has gone for a recent'loop'......thinking I'm running with a partially choked engine.

Be nice when I get those gauges.....fine tune it.

Probably end up running some wires to the cab and switching the air reg.....if it's somewhat NFG

[Sealik]

My air reg was NFG.

I removed it when it was cold and had a look through it, was just about closed when it should be open, Mike set me a pic of his to confirm :thumbup:

So i yanked it all out.....just have to keep your foot on the gas until it warms up :P

On another issue.... :blink:

Replaced my clutch slave a while back, the system still doesn't hold pressure.

Bleed it...2 days later....have bleed it again, and still the pedal starts disengaging the clutch within 1/2 inch from floor.

Can't see any leaks.....assuming its the clutch master..?.., nothing else left to replace.

Might just set the pedal up a little tighter....see what happens

 

On a more seasonal note....I declare today the first day of winter!

First time I had to lock my hubs in.....for snow that is :D

 

[Sealik]

I changed my clutch master cylinder after noting some fluid on the inside of the cab.....twice.....the first one (used) calved after installation. Assuming it broke the 'old' plunger and or after a few pumps. :o

Changed the slave again also....no difference. Seems like there is still air in the system..?..bled it many times a couple of different ways, same result. Pretty sure there is no air in the system....strong stream of fluid coming out....no bubbles. Hard to shift into gear.....need to pump once or twice for a smoother shift.

The clutch pedal is too close to floor when it disengages the clutch.

I adjusted the pedal as much as possible....helped a bit....but.....not quite right.

The only thing left is the clutch damper....probably eliminate that and just join the metal lines.

Looked for some info on symptoms for a NFG clutch damper....very 'limited'.

Some people remove them....so I'll try that.

Sucks.....-10C...brrrrrr

[datzenmike]

Other forums (S12 200sx) remove the damper and chuck. Just get a foot long (shorter is better) brake line from crappy tire and form into a loop around a piece of wood and join it in and bleed.

[Sealik]

Ya....I checked the 240sx forums and they suggest the same.

Gonna yank it tomorrow and take it apart

Must see how it works......and or why it's not... :D

 

I think it has a 'puck' of rubber that compresses. No forum has ever explained what the damn thing does.

[Sealik]

I believe it takes out pulsations from the clutch and also makes the pedal feel less spongy...maybe :D

[datzenmike]

Maybe it softens it. Takes the sudden stiffness when the release bearing hits the PP fingers? For pussys. :lol:

[Sealik]

Maybe it softens it. Takes the sudden stiffness when the release bearing hits the PP fingers? For pussys. :lol:

 

You are correct

Just pulled this from a different truck.....gonna go grab a brake line

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

That will probably work. You know I broke a brake line from the front to the back on my old Omni. Easy fix right? Just get a pre made length from crap tire and good to go. So Guess what Chrysler did... they put two different threads on the ends. Fuckers!!!! I cut the nut off and put it on the line and flared it. Cost $7 instead of $80