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Sound deadening?


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I know theres tons of threads on this, but none really answered my question.

 

I'm looking for a good CHEAP sound deadening for my car. I've already stripped out all the plastic crap that was in there, stripped the floor, and primed it, then covered with truck beadliner.

 

Whats the cheapest sound deadening material out there that actually does a decent job of quieting the interior of the car? Doesn't HAVE to be intended for a car as long as it works. I know some people on the internet talk about using other stuff. Just wanna see what you guys recommend seeing as I have never done it before.

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This HAS been covered, read the threads more. I know i know, the old threads are pages long, but they contain good info

 

The cheapest sound deadening shit you can get, is at your local home depot. Thats right! Its only a few bucks a roll and works good.

 

gimmy a min imma find u a link :D

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Yeah, its called Peel N Seal, it might be called something else now. but its at home depot, about 12 bucks a roll. It works good, not as good as the expensive stuff obviously! But still works well, but putting pad/carpet over it will help too. Before you lay this stuff down, scrub your floors well and use some por15 or equivalent stuff, then lay this down over after its dried. Using a roller helps get it on there good, as well as head gun on a cold day...

 

Good luck man. Google home depot sound deadening, lots of guys have used it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

from all my research there is a two step approach to this. The first is adding mass (this is the butyl-aluminum stuff we are talking about) to the panels to reduce vibration from driving. This will also make the doors have a satisfying thunk when you close them. But you will not stop ambient noises. This is where closed cell foam comes in, it really aids in killing high end sounds.

 

Basically do what you want. But if you arent satisfied add more and different stuff. The 3 things I see most often are, 1)the butyl-aluminum stuff 2)closed cell foam 3)Mass loaded vinyl (weighs about 1 lb/sqft)

 

I also consistently read that the panels only need to be covered by 25% by the butyl-aluminum stuff near the center of the panel.

 

I really liked this site. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

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I agree with Laecaon, it takes a few different types of stuff to do the job right.

 

And Skib, FatMat FTW, it's by far the best bang for you buck out there. I like the "Rattle Trap " version of theirs, it's a little thinker than the standard FatMat. We just did an entire dime with it (almost 100 sq ft) and it's quieter than a BMW now, lol.

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And Skib, FatMat FTW, it's by far the best bang for you buck out there. I like the "Rattle Trap " version of theirs, it's a little thinker than the standard FatMat. We just did an entire dime with it (almost 100 sq ft) and it's quieter than a BMW now, lol.

 

 

glad to hear some actual feed back :cool: Rattle Trap it is then.

 

I just want to make a semi comfortable datto for once :rofl: it dosent have to be amazing but Id like to at least not have to yell over road and engine noise.

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The roofing shit is ok if you want to spend time with a torch in your car applying it but I used a peal and stick called hush mat, much easier to install. Just give it a clean surface to stick to, quick roll out and your done. Laecaon is correct on it only taking a little in the center area to do the job, I personally go for full coverage after that due to the power of the sound systems I deal with. But the sticky stuff is to stop the metal from vibrating. The Fat Mat Skib spoke of is the noise killer. If I remember the brand it is a closed cell foam pad. You can also use fiber pad type carpet insulation to quiet the inside down as well. Anyone that has been inside my truck will tell you, it is quiet, unless I turn the stereo on! ;)

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what would you recommend for just killing out the road/engine noise in the KC Don?

 

I dont really have a need to do it to enhance any stereo stuff just to keep a nice quiet ride.

 

 

I was thinking some of the fat mat on the floors, rear of the cab, inside the door skins, and the roof.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys, I was planning on doing the roll on bed liner stuff do you think I should put that on first and then the roofing stuff or should I just scrap the bed liner all-together? Also this may be a stupid question but what if I put the roofing stuff on first then the bed liner real thick?

 

 

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The dynamat stuff is overpriced. I got a roll ebay seller "noise-killers" and they sell "FatMat" brand sound deadening and they have free shipping.

 

They sell their stuff for around $1.40/Sq'. The stuff in the video is lil more than $1.30/Sq' but no Idea how thick it is.

 

The stuff you want to look for is called Butyl Rubber. It's the 'sticky' backing and they usually put foil on the other side and sell it for sound deadening. There is other stuff out there for roofing, but its meant to be torched and burned as it is rolled out. Not the best thing you want to do on an auto. From what I hear, the doors make more noise than anything... don't skimp out on the doors. I plan to do the entire inside of both my doors and behind the seat with this stuff.

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what would you recommend for just killing out the road/engine noise in the KC Don?

 

I dont really have a need to do it to enhance any stereo stuff just to keep a nice quiet ride.

 

 

I was thinking some of the fat mat on the floors, rear of the cab, inside the door skins, and the roof.

 

What ever vibration dampener you want to use then a thin (1/4 or less)closed cell foam pading, then a fiber pad, then your carpet. The first stops the vibration from the road, the second puts a dead air space to stop most sound, then the fiber finishes it off.

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  • 6 years later...

After a ton of reading, thread searching and driving to a few local spots in search of a sound deadened-dampener for my 521 doors...I can for sure attest to the value of the VW Bug video put up on this thread. Most of the “window” tape type sealers are more expensive and cover less area. Lowe’s products “Peel n Seal” certainly smelled strongly of asphalt and bitterness. I can only imagine how much it would smell like regret on a hot day. Home Depot products (as described in VW video) are now being sold under the name “U.seal Band” in rolls (25’ x 6”) with yellow and black labels. It is far less offensive smelling, is US made, rolls on easily (after mediocre surface cleaning;) and works well do drop vibration and rattling from doors etc. Most roofing companies I talked with will steer you towards a tar-asphalt-remorse based product that will be possibly better suited for very large projects (1959 Buick floors, stationwagons, between floors in apartments and walls in hotels). Just my 3 cents worth.

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The torch on cuts with tin snips cleanly and easily. Has clear or light blue plastic covering on one side. Does not gum up sheers. You can heat with a propane torch or hair drier to get it into tight corners. Also cuts easily with the box cutter.

 

Best of all it's FREE
 
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  • 2 months later...

After a ton of reading, thread searching and driving to a few local spots in search of a sound deadened-dampener for my 521 doors...I can for sure attest to the value of the VW Bug video put up on this thread. Most of the “window” tape type sealers are more expensive and cover less area. Lowe’s products “Peel n Seal” certainly smelled strongly of asphalt and bitterness. I can only imagine how much it would smell like regret on a hot day. Home Depot products (as described in VW video) are now being sold under the name “U.seal Band” in rolls (25’ x 6”) with yellow and black labels. It is far less offensive smelling, is US made, rolls on easily (after mediocre surface cleaning;) and works well do drop vibration and rattling from doors etc. Most roofing companies I talked with will steer you towards a tar-asphalt-remorse based product that will be possibly better suited for very large projects (1959 Buick floors, stationwagons, between floors in apartments and walls in hotels). Just my 3 cents worth.

Don’t know what you smelled, or if you just read other posts on this and speculated further and posted negatively on it? I used Peel & Seal in the rear hatch area of my 81 200sx in 2016 for $18 for a roll, and it goes a long way. You only need to cover 25% of any panel to greatly reduce vibration noise.

 

it had zero noticeable odor when handling and installed. I taped over it with the alum tape to seal it. Live in So Cal and drive it to the Inland Empire meet in the desert in 90 degree heat, never smelled a thing. Put it in my 620 doors and it took out all the tinny twang and gave them enough weight to close and latch really solid.

 

If you have money to burn go ahead and but the dyna or fat mat at 4 x’s the cost. I’d rather save that for other parts or tires. If you buy the expensive stuff You’ll never be able to tell the difference, but you can wear their sticker with pride and have bragging rights for sure.

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